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C^Uliii:s LOUISE AND lllCli SO,\S. 




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PRESBURCi. HUMIARY. 




CHAPEL OF IIEXRY VII., WESTMINSTER. 




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CHAXDOLIN, SWITZEHLAXD. 




FOUTE ST. 1>ENIS, PAKIS. 




KKIDOE OF SlCiUS, VENICE. 




AVILLIAM II., EMPEKOK OF GERMANY. 




riUXCE BISMAHCK. 




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LUCERNE AND MT. PILATlf, SWITZERLAND. ', 




MT. PILAXrS, TRACK AXD TliAIN. 



13,000 Miles of Sight Seeing 

IN THIRTY DAYS! 

H GREAT RACE FOR R BIG PRIZE! 
GRHND TOUR OF EUROPE. 
KRKY LANDS HT ONE YIEW. 



FINE ART, INrORMATION, STORY. 



COPIOUSLY ILLUSTRATED WITH FINE ENGRAVINGS. 



I- 

by henry BOYNTON & CO. 



PEESS COMPANY, PUBLISHEKS, 
Augusta, Maine. 




THE LIBRARY 
or CONGRESS 

WASHINGTON 



Copyright 1891 
By Henrt Boynton 






ELECTROTYPED AND PRINTED BY 

BROWN THURSTON COMPANY 

PORTLAND MAINE 



INTRODUCTION. 



The pen and photograph pictvires in this book, of persons and 
scenes in Europe are EEAL. The Irish journey; the dash through 
Wales ; the Scotch trip ; Gladstone in Parliament ; the young lady's 
own account of her presentation to Queen Victoria ; the sad story oi 
the poor of London ; the sights of gay Paris ; the breezy trip among 
the high Alps; the visits to many world renowned art galleries; the 
rambles in sunny Italy: the story of burning Vesuvius, the bay of 
Naples, and the buried cities ; the strolls in classic old Greece ; the 
queer streets of Constantinople ; the marriage market in Hungary ; 
even the little incident of the American who discovers that his guide 
is a duke, are facts. 

This is a story which leads one through the finest and most inter- 
esting real scenes. It gives a clear and comprehensive view of what 
may be seen on the grand tour of Europe. Its information is 
fresh and reliable and of great value. Its many fine illustrations, by 
skilful artists of several countries, bring many beautiful and real 
scenes home to us. It is, therefore, of great value to those who have 
visited all Europe, and to those who have never had the great privi- 
lege of traveling abroad. 

With this book one may make the grand tour at small cost, and 
see real pictures, in pen and pencil, of actual persons and j^laces, 
while one remains quietly at home. Thirteen thousand miles is a 
greater distance than around the world on the meridian of latitude 
of London, Paris or Milan. 

The " Co." are several eminent and able persons whose highly 
authentic information, obtained by long and careful obseiwation in 
various countries and positions in Europe, enriches this work. 



laOOO MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING 

IN 30 DAYS. 



I 

A GREAT FLOOD had just swept clown the valley. Valemont 
Avas under water ; all was ruined. The alarm quickly spread. Trains 
loaded with men were soon arriving for the rescue. The work of 
relief went bravely on for hours. The rescuers worked with energy 
and all persons who still floated were supposed to be saved, when 
Robin Smith, a bright lad of twelve years, went to see if any one 
liad floated into the eddy beloAv the horseback. He observed, away 
out on the water, a cradle floating. He heard a cry, " Save my 
baby! O my child is in that cradle !" He saw a young woman rush 
into the water. Robin sprang into a small boat with Mike Welch 
and they paddled to the cradle. Tiny dimpled hands peeped from 
the clothes, with dainty nails tinted like a delicate rose leaf. He saw 
a flossy little halo of silky hair, and eyes of Heaven's own deep blue. 
The round faced, sweet baby crowed with delight at sight of Robin, 
as he took it in his arms. Mike j^addled the boat and Robin soon 
handed the baby to its mother who stood in the water. 

The heavy rain turned to damp snow and it was a wild night when 
Robin, tired and worn, started to go home. 

THE NIGHT TRAIN. 

The night train was about to start. It was dark, wintry ; snow 
was fast falling. The passengers, snow whitened, were crowding 
into the car. Gaslights flickered and made the snowy fgures 
look more weird. The odor of bad cigars, the cry of ncAvsboys, the 
thumi)ing of baggage trucks, the buzz of talk, and then the cry, "All 
aboard ! " Robin saw the lady whose child he had saved, and he as- 
sisted her to the seat by his side. She was quite young and seemed 



gg 1^,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

to be ill or very weary. She took the little bonnet from the child's 
head and smoothed the bright hair with the delicate touch of a 
shapely hand. Robin gave the child a sweet biscuit which she ate as 
if hungry, and she looked wistfully at him for more, which he handed 
over. The baby smiled her thanks, but was too young to speak. 
The lady sank back in her seat with a hopeless air. Robin saw that 
her face was oval, pale about the lips, the cheeks flushed, the whole 
face sad and troubled. He was sorry for her and he kindly asked if 
he could help her to care for the child. She looked at him with 
blue, tearful eyes and declined with a grateful " I thank you," in a 
low tone. 

Everybody was depressed, the hum of talk ceased. They rushed 
along in the night storm. The motion of the car was easy and tired 
Robin fell asleep. Once he opened his eyes ; he saw the young 
mother leaning over her pretty girl baby — crying he thought — he 
saw her fervently kiss the soft cheeks. Most of the others, wearied, 
were sleeping. Robin again fell asleej). He was aroused by the 
baby; she had crawled over upon his lap and now j)ulled his hair. 
She was crying and using her one word, " Mamma ! " " "Why 
don't that baby's mother keep it from disturbing folks ? " muttered 
a snoring man in a back seat. 

Robin saw that the mother was motionless ; her face, now white, 
was a little upturned towards the light. Robin rose, a strange shud- 
der passed over him, he touched the lady's white hand ; the child 
cried louder ; a peevish voice in a front seat said, " Some folks alus 
lets ther babies cry." 

"Its mother is dead!" said Robin in a shocked tone. She was 
indeed dead, had died Avhile the others slept. 

Robin's words roused all the passengers; all were in wonder and 
awe ; all were ready with real S3'mpathy. Several persons tried to 
take the child ; but she clung to her mother ; it was heart-rending 
to see her try to waken her mother. 

A flash of light outside, the ringing of the bell, and the train 
stopped at Robin's station. When they lifted the mother and car- 
ried her to a waiting-room, the poor child looked around at the 
strange faces and drew back, and then threw herseK into Robin's 



THE NIGHT TRAIN. 



W 



friendly embrace. The local doctor came, drove back the crowd, 
disappeared into the waiting-room and the crowd stood silent and 
expectant outside. He soon came out and said «' heart failure." 

The train went on and left Robin. The child fell asleep in his 
arms while he sat waiting for the coroner who soon came. No ad- 
dress, no name Avas found. 

Telegrams elicited no information, the lady was a stranger. The 
affair made much talk, but after a few weeks it was believed that all 
her relations had perished in the Yalemont flood. The clothinc^ of 
the mother was of fine material and in her purse were $600 in gold; 
so she had not been in want. The name " Annie Arden " was on the 
baby's dress. 

A kind lady offered to take care of the child. So with good Mary 
Brown she lived for ten years. Then Mary Brown died, and only 
half-crazed Miss Mory was left in the small tenement with the gentle 
child. Now the $600 were soon spent and Annie often suffered with 
cold and hunger. She was of pretty ways and winning disposition, 
and she had grown comely. All this time Robin, now become 
twenty -two years old, had kept up a pleasant friendship with the 
little waif, and they often walked and talked together. 

" Ring happy bells across the snow," exclaimed little Annie while 
the merry church chimes were ringing one morning as Robin drove 
up with horse and sleigh. The musical child voice trilled timidly 
along the words ; the sweet face, with its bright eyes and lips like 
the deep tint of a rare sea shell, looked out from the little red hood, 
worn and patched like her short cloak. 

" Good raorninir, Annie." 

" (>5 my naughty, good boy, how kind of you to come to me ! " 

*' I like to come." 

"Why?" 

"Because I like you, and you are agreeable to me." 

"And I like you;" and she put her small arms around his neck 
and kissed him. 

" Why do you like me ? " 
V *' Cause you are good to me." 



40 13fi00 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" Well, Pi.isc, here are a pair of pretty shoes." 

" All for me ? " 

« Yes." 

*' Why did you bring them ? " 

" Because you love me." 

She put on the shoes and cackled with delight. 

" How badly your worn out clothes go Avith your new shoes," he 
said. The girl looked at her faded calico dress, it was not a garment 
for this winter cold ; she replied, " I have no mamma to buy me a 
warm dress." 

" Are you cold, Annie ? " 

" Yes ; 1 am cold all the time." 

" Are you hungry ? " 

" I am most always hungry." 

Ilobin drew a big sigh. It was a big thought that he had. It 
was, " My cigars cost enough to feed and clothe this child." Then 
he hesitated; what would peojile say? What would they think? 
He started to go. But little Annie said : " Please let me kiss you 
again." 

« What for ? " 

" Cause I love you." 

That settled it. Robin sighed again, but he smiled when he felt 
the winning child's soft breath on his cheek. He reflected, — " She 
is the only jierson in the world who would say she loves me." The 
thought that even this poor, friendless child loved him, warmed the 
heart of Robin Smith — -for such i^ the power of love — and he said : 
" Poor Annie, you have nobody to care for you." 

" I have you." 

" But no mother." 

" Only you." 

" I Avill bo your mother. Little One, if you will let me." 

" You be my mamma ! How very funny ! " 

" Yes ; — your protecter." 

" What IS a pertecter ? " 

" Well, — it is — a provider." 

" What is a pervider ? " 



THE NIGUT TRAIN. , 41 

" One who provides. Will you be my very own little girl ? " 

" Yes ; gladly." 

" Then you shall have a new dress before another hour." 

" O, my ! How very, very good ! " 

" You shall have a handsome red dress, with blue ribbons to-day." 

"You are so very, very good that I will give you my doll." She 
was going to run to bring him the doll, but he caught her up in his 
arms ; and wrapping her in his sleigh robe he drove to a milliner's 
shop where he saw the windows full of bonnets and ribbons, and he 
astonished the milliner with his order, " Dress this child up hand- 
some — quick ! " The milliner and her seven girls stared at him in 
surprise. 

" I want you to put a red dress with green ribbon bows on this 
girl, and brush out her pretty hair." 

" Sorry not to oblige you ; but we deal only in millinery." 

" Are not children's dresses miUinery ? " 

" That remark shows all a man knows," said one black-eyed shop 
girl, sotto voce, to another. 

" Better take her to Mrs. Maler's, at No. 19," said the amused 
milliner. 

Kobin hastened to Mrs. Maler with the remark, " I want a dress 
for this child." The Widow Maler was quite young and too hand- 
some. 

" Yes, sir ; of what material ? " 

" Red plush with green ribbon epaulettes." 

" Wh— a— t ! " 

" Red plush ; green trimmings." 

Mrs. Maler stared to see if he were a maniac. He knew that red 
plush is handsome ; that it makes up into elegant furniture ; that 
green ribbons are pretty ; but he did not know, any better than the 
average man, that such things in red plush and ribbons, arc not in 
tbe best taste for small girls' dresses. " Red plush and green rib- 
bons ! That IS all a man knows ! " added the black-eyed Betsey. 

3Irs. Maler asked, " Shall I select something more suitable for 
her?" 

"Yes; but let it be pretty and above all becoming to her." 



42 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" Anything besides a dress ? " 

" Yes ; a full suit ; everything." 

While Mrs. Maler was selecting, Robin was thinking "I can't af- 
ford it. But she loves me. Nobody else loves me. I'll save it in 
cigars. I'll smoke no more." 

" You'll have it ready in an houi-, so I. guess I'll wait here." 

" Bless me ! It will take a week." 

" A week ! Then I'll call every evening and get what is then 
done." 

And so he did. He never winced when he paid the bill which 
was five times more than he ex23ected. " Save it in tobacco," he 
said. In her new dress Annie was very pretty. 

" What are you going to do with that child ? " asked Mrs. Maler, 
after Mary Brown died. 

" Keep her as my own child." 

" Where ? " Then the idea came to him that the home of crazy 
Mory was not the right place in which to bring up a child. He re- 
plied, " I — really — don't — know." 

' • How do you get money ? " 

" Work for it." 

"How?" 

" I am a civil engineer." 

" And you earn how much ? " 

" About twelve dollars a week, now ; I hope to do better soon." 

" I would like a little girl for company : I will board Annie for two 
dollars a week." 

" But I wish to send her to school." 

" She shall go to school." 

" Agreed ; I will bring her to you to-day." 

Who is there that has not had some relation named Smith ? There 
is a Smithic affinity in us all. Not unlikely Robin belonged to some 
branch of our Smith relatives. 

Robin was alone in the Hungarian cabin in Nevada, where he 
lived with foreigners, when a letter came. Ten years had flown by; 



TUB NIGHT TRAIN. ' 43 

his thirty-second birthday had come ; Annie must be about twenty- 
two ; just ten years since he carried Annie to be clothed ; just twenty 
years since her mother died. For eight years he had not seen her ; 
all that time he had been earnestly at Avork in Nevada, and Annie 
Avas still back at his old home town. He had a tender memory of 
the amiable child. " Why, indeed ! She must be a young lady by 
this time ! I wonder how she looks! How glad I would be to see 
her to-day." So he spoke to himself. He took the letter from his 
table. He scanned the smooth, thick, wliite envelope, the clear-cut, 
pretty writing ; lie well knew that hand, it was from Annie. As he 
opened it a photograph fell to the table. A sweet face looked at 
him from its surface ; large eyes, full of soft, loving earnestness, a 
mouth at once firm and gentle, heavy masses of fine, dark hair shad- 
owing a face of perfect oval ; features of rare and delicate outlines, 
and soft glow of bloom, a look of a nature generous, impulsive, 
tender, but of strong texture. In the silence of that very early hour 
of the morning, that charming face confronted him at the very 
moment when his starved heart was crying out for love, when he 
was listening to that earnest demand for love that his nature had all 
these long years been pleading ; he stood gazing into the depths of 
those earnest, friendly eyes ; there was magnetism in the pictured 
face, turned so confidingly to his. Then he read the letter: 
"Dear Robin Smith : 

I have time only for this line as the mail 
closes in a few minutes. I still retain my love of years ago for you 
and I hope soon to see you. Write and let us know when to expect 
you. I inclose my photograph. 

Lovingly, 

Annie." 
Robin loved his mountains and lakes, so like a Swiss scene, but 
that night in his dreams he saw those kindly eyes seeking his own, 
he heard the pretty Annie speaking loving words to him : he woke 
to find himself still a lonely Nevada bachelor whose Annie might be 
listening to loving words from some other man : he felt that he must 
have a dear one to love : he fell in love with the sweet lady who 
looked so kindly on him from the picture. The Eureka mine had 



44 i3,000 MILES OF SIGnT-SEEING. 

made him rich : he was a millionaire : he coitld well afford a visit to 
his old home. A pov/crful impulse to sec Annie swept over him; 
he would accept her invitation. Ten days Liter, r/ith his factotum, 
Teteto (Avho always signed hh name Ttto), and his other servant, 
Kelo, he left the setting sun behind. 

Teteto is peculiar. Ilis father was Sin Sin, a heathen Chinee 
washee man, and Teteto i;^ full of sin Avhich vre guarantee. " A thing 
of booty is er joy furivir," lie remarked as he stole IJobin's umbrella, 
and, later, he said of a Nevada girl, " I>y hur good loox she took a 
umbril rite outen my pockit, for I havn't saw it sinz I loant it tu her." 
When he was found drunk and was taken before a court in strange 
diggings and was asked his name he answered, " I doan wanter tell." 

" You must." 

" It'll be disgract." 

" I comi)el you to tell." 

'' Warl : ef I mus, den I mus : — I'se Ben Butler hisself ! " 

But the senior Sin too had been a sinner. Teteto once said to 
him: 

"Air yoo a fraud, Pa?" 

" No," replied the surprised Sinner. 

" Then yure no man." 

" Wat yoo means ? " 

" I'se hurn yoo say all men is frauds, Papa." 

"Yoo makes donkey talk." 

" Yees, allee samee ; cos wishee makee yoo unerstan." 

Teteto, like many others, always enjoyed his own talk. But his 
Pa said : " Comce heah. I'se givee yoo fdtty stripee." 

"I no comee if yoo lickee fifty strij^ee," replied the innocent 
scamp. And then they were " two soids with a single thought " — 
what about that licking ; but Sin Sr. was generous, he gave it all to 
his Jr. 

Teteto's mother was Milly McCan, an Irish washer-lady, who mar- 
ried old Sin in order to convert him ; and she converted him into a 
dead Chinee, for he lacked endurance to trot in matrimonial harness 
with that vigorous soap-lady. The only book old Sin Sin loved was 
a pack of cards ; she often told her love — told him to wash, wash 



THE NIGHT TRAIN. ' 45 

faster. He didn't wish to go to Paradise ; he rebelled ; she remon- 
strated with a flat-iron ; the body was sent to China for burial. 

Kelo was as pi;re American product as McKinley tariff can 
create. His papa Avas Hop Toad, a Kaw Indian ; his mother was 
Miss Take, a white schoolmarm who married Hop Toad. He said 
they were a " parlor match, married in front parlor, one room wig- 
wam." His motto was " Giv me liberally, and giv me pelf." The 
couple squat in Mud City. But Hop Toad said he " Scapt frum Mud 
City ontu er pint uv law." " What point ? " asked Bod Gizzle. He 
replied, " Hop Toad steal um ; law pinted hang um ; Toad run ; here 
be. Ugh ! Hop Toad big Injun ! " 

Poverty is faithful, it sticks when our brothers forsake us, it stuck 
to the Hop Toads. Yet he wished to rise in the world. He tried the 
cattle business. A party of nice young men, minus one hundred cat- 
tle, filled with whisky and virtue, with masks and public spirit on 
their faces, made him a neighborly visit. On his honor as a big In- 
jun gentleman he confessed that he was not guilty. But they gave 
him a rise in the world. Elder Quitedark '= ob Missury," made the 
funeral sermon, free of charge. Verbatim it was : " Man dat doan 
minder woman, am ob bad ways, an kumz to tubble. I doan gwine 
yulegate Hop Toad. Jis dis one funrul shel be truf. He fit, he stole, 
he lied, he lazed roun, hiz mind war pizen. Berry 'im deep an furgit 
'im quick. Close by singin de linz : " Rejoice my frenz, de curs 
am gon." 

I know that Kelo was once a handsome baby, his own mother con- 
fessed it to me. He says that " siety arly ostrichized me." Raised 
with fools, he became an adept in fooUng. He could stand on his 
head like Teteto, and his motto was " Go on : don't fool away life 
tryiii' ter fin' t' right. Greely said, " Go West and rise : " but Kelo 
wished to leave the West to avoid rising — to a tree. His mother 
said, 

"White folks ought to treat Indians just as one white treats 

another white." 

" Den treat me tu whisky raw," Kelo demanded. 

He ate like a pig, and said, "I don't argy at dinner lest other fel- 
lers outeat me," and then his mamma saw that he " suffered for a 



46 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

lickin." just as you and I suffered when we were juvenile. It was 
on a barren rock mountain where gi'ew no trees ; but nature, which 
always provides for man's needs, had caused there to grow one fine 
hazel bush about four feet high. She brandished the fragrant hazel 
twig. Kelo asked, " Are prayers answered ? " 
"Yes." 

He fell on his knees and prayed, " O Lor : don't let maw lick me," 
and she didn't that time. But, like a postage stamp, he c ould never 
keep his jjlace without licking. Then she said she needed the mag- 
nanimity of Job : but Kelo spoke right up like a little man, " Twant 
magnetism; twer biles 't Job had. 

The shocked mamma asked " What will you do if I die of your 
badness ? " 

" I spoze I'd hev tu box my own ears," he replied sadly. 
To change the subject she said, " What does g-u-m spell? " 
" Dunno." 

" What do you like to chew ? " 

" Terrbarrkerr ! " replied the connecting link, with a triple whirrr. 
Perhaps Kelo is the "missing link." He looks like his paj^a, his 
papa looked like a native Australian, and those natives look like — 
the Old Nick! This Nick is said to be the patron of liars, and 
Kelo's mother had taught him to lie by telling him that " The cow 
jumped over the moon," not at the moon as it should be translated. 
At the Indian school Kelo became a jjoet. He gave out copies of 
an original hymn. But among them were found a bill for drinks 
and a plan for stealing army horses. This made him so unpopular 
with his mother that she made threats of which next morning he 
taunted her, "Maw, yer proinist me ye'd knock my head off." 
"Did I? Well I ask your pardon for not doing it." 
And when he thought it was his weight that held down Stony 
Hill from being as high as Mt. Sky, she gave iip, donated her boy to 
Robin and sank very low, for she married a white man who sold rum 
to Indians. Kelo was born in Dog City, a city so large that it was 
miles from one house to the next. An odd oddity, with "no jjlace 
like home " — for getting licked ; he cultivated his mind among bad 
boys till he was full of foolness. Cynical, yea, full of sin, a 



THE NIGHT TRAIN. ' 47 

picturesque picture, contact with whites Itlackeued his tone. Like 
ti-ue love, his life did not run smootli. With this stai¥, Robin 
traveled so swiftly that the Kansas City man had no time to sell him 
any farm mortgages, nor the Chicago man to enrich him with city 
lots. In 7G hours and 21 minutes he arrived in Washington. 

Robin was weary, hungry, he must have food and repose, he had 
not slept well on the train. But he would not delay proposing to 
Annie ; he knew that his usually lion courage might fail when he 
should meet her, so young and innocent ; he had so long regarded 
her as a child that the ten years of difference in their ages made him 
murmur to himself, " I am too old ! " 

Annie, in answer to his letter, had come on to Washington to 
meet him. But here was another cause of anxiety, Harry Kane had 
come with her ! They had arrived one day before they expected the 
advent of Robin and had taken the time to visit Mt. Vernon where 
they now were. The loss of half of Robin's great fortune would not 
have troubled him as did this presence of Harry Kane with Annie, 
When Robin first went to Nevada, he was, one day, hunting a 
bear that had climbed to the top of the mountain and had 
just killed a Rocky Mountain sheep. As he was about to shoot 
the bear, Peter Kane, a mighty hunter, concealed behind a 
rock, fired at the creature. The wounded animal turned upon the 
strange hunter, knocked him down with a blow of its huge paw, and 
would have killed him within ten seconds, if Robin had not sliot the 
enraged brute dead and thus rescued the badly wounded hunter. He 
took the heljDless man to his own cabin and tended him till, after 
many weeks, he recovered and became Robin's partner. Long and 
hard they toiled together, but without success. They sank a shaft 
but struck no gold. They were near to starving. Both were des- 
pondent. Then Peter refused to work longer. An Indian war was 
on,»aud Peter preferred fighting. He wanted to be killed. He was 
worn out with ill luck. Peter became (piarrelsome. At last he de- 
manded that Robin should give him his mule in exchange for Peter's 
share in the shaft. Robin objected that the shaft was worthless, that 
he needed the mule ; but Peter forced the trade, took the mule, left 
Robin a deed to his interest in that mine, and Peter became a bold 



48 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

soldier boy. Ten days later Peter lay on the prairie with an Indian 
bullet in his diaphragm. When Robin heard that Peter had petered 
out he hastened to the spot where the battle had raged, and there he 
found Peter alive but delirious and repeating from the drill routine, 
" Left ! left ! left my home ! left, left the diggins ! left, left all ! left 
my wife ! left my boy ! " 

" Why Peter ! have you a wife ! have you a boy ! " 
His voice seemed to bring back Peter's senses and he said faintly, 
" That you, Robin ? Yis, I had a wife. She is dead. I have a boy. 
His name is Harry. He is in the poorhouse at Kent. Take care of 
him ; " and in ten minutes Peter's soul had gone to meet that of the 
Indian ; they had killed each the other. 

Robin accepted the charge, he was himself in utter poverty but 
lie assumed the support of Peter's boy. The next year began Rob- 
in's prosperity. He sent the boy to school and then to college, he 
took pride in Harry's being the stroke oar, he was amused with the 
little adventures that Harry related in his letters ; he really had 
done more for Harry already than Peter would have done in a 
lifetime. 

Mrs. Maler had hopes. Once she had written, "Annie is a woman. 
She must enter society." " Has she not been in society all her life ? " 
asked Robin. He did not know that common society is not society, 
that girls come out and are then in society. He reflected on what 
Mrs. Maler could mean ; " Surely all are in society except those on 
desert islands or in solitary confinement." He suspected that Mrs. 
Maler meant that Annie should be married. Honest Robin knew 
little of marrying. Once indeed Mrs. Maler had hopes, but Robin 
could not take a hint ; she once tried to make love eyes at him, but 
he never looked at a woman's eyes. That was eight years ago. 
Innocent, good Robin ! look out now, dangers and celebrity are in 
store for you. " I wonders wich'U win ' im, Malee er Any ? " mused 
Kelo who privately read Robin's letters. 

As soon as he had taken dinner, Robin, fearing to trust his diffi- 
dence when he should meet Annie, and wishing to have the matter 
settled promptly, sent to Annie at Mt. Vernon this message, — 




THAT FLOon. 




MRS. MALEK WAS (y:ini': YOl'NG. 




HOARDING A 1 MRS. MALI R 




^() LIKK A SWISS SCKMC 




A*^ ^■, 













PETER S HEAR. 



-',v^ •-■»<%/ 



^'i 




liEXIAMIX ll.\m<IS()N. 










GROVER CLEVELAND. 




WASHINGTON. 



THE NIGHT TRAIN. ■ 65 

" Will you be married to me here at Washington, to-morrow ? " 

Robin Smith, 
paid 10." 

Then he took a long, refreshing sleep, until a bell boy woke him 
with the answer, — 

" Yes ; I will be at Wash, on ten o'clock boat, to-night. 

Annie. 
col. 25." 

He looked at his watch ; it lacked three hours of the time. He 
put on an evening dress. He was all impatience to meet her. He 
could neither express nor contain his joy; he was in great excite- 
ment, he gave a dollar to the waiter who brought him a glass of iced 
water when he had ordered cold tea ; he ordered cigars and forgot to 
take them; he borrowed an umbrella although the night was cloudless. 

That Annie, charming Annie, ten years younger than he ; that a 
refined young woman was so kind as to accept him, and do it so 
promptly, astonished, pleased, vivified honest Robin ; it gave him 
such thrills of exuberant joy as he had never before felt. He mar- 
veled that one could be so happy. He was thankful, too, that he 
had such wealth that he could give Annie, his own dear Annie, all 
the comforts and luxuries that her refined tastes might desire. He 
ordered a carriage, but he was too happy to ride, he would Walk. 

As he turned the corner of the street he met his old friend, now 
the President of the United States. The two warmly grasped 
hands. 

" How do you do, my good friend Smith? " 

" Well and happy : how do you do, sir?" 

« Well, and glad to see you are happy." 

"I am overjoyed." 

« You have made a large fortune." 

« Better than that." 

« Something very special ? " 

« Yes ; she and I are to-day engaged." 
5 



gg 13,000 MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

" Who is the lady ? One whom you would chose must be a 
treasure." 

"Annie, my ward." 

" Indeed ! You have a lovely bride." 

" We mai-ry immediately." 

" You are always prompt in affairs." 

" I began to fear that I had waited too long in this affair." 

"How so?" 

" That some one else might have won her before I spoke." 

" I congratulate you on your success." 

" The success is more than I dared hope." 

" You are too modest ; you underrate yourself." 

" I am conscious that I am not an attractive man," 

" But you always attracted my Avarm esteem." 

" I thank you for your generous compliment, but it is easier to 
win the friendship of a man than the love of a woman." 

" You are a worthy man, you ought not to have hesitated, by de- 
laying you have lost several years of marital happiness. I would 
have married her sooner." 

" But you are a brilliant man, you would have dared to propose 
earlier." 

" Really Robin, in solid qualities you far surpass me." 

Not for anything would Robin make an exhibition of himself, but 
his feelings choked his voice ; he wished it otherwise, for often we 
are ashamed of our amiable weaknesses, while the witness approves 
of its expression. 

The President said, "I am going to the wedding of Senator Silver ; 
to-night he takes a bride ; come along with me. I invite you in his 
name." 

Robin looked at his watch ; it lacked two hours of Annie's arri- 
val ; just then marriage was very interesting to him; he would like 
to see one in high life ; arm in arm with the President he walked to 
the wedding. When there he imagined the wedding as his own ; he 
feared he was dreaming ; he had ecstatic visions ; he lived the few 
coining hours till he should be a bridegroom. The powerful odors 
of masses of flowers, the fine music, the elegant costumes, the 



THE NIGHT TRAIN. 67 

brilliant display, the distinguished guests, the beautiful women, the 
shimmering clouds of silks and tulle, the magnificent toilettes of the 
bride and bridesmaids, the flashing of jewels, all conspired to stimu- 
late his waking dreams. But when he saw the meeting of the bride 
and groom he was startled, shocked. Senator Silver, ponderous, awk- 
ward, was seventy-five years old ; his bride but smiling seventeen ! 
" What a mismatch ! " he thought : " Money marriage ! " spoke 
out his next neighbor. Then the thought came, like a blow in the 
face, that he was himself a veteran miner, ten years older than 
Annie ; that he too was awkward. Could it be possible that Annie 
intended to marry him for his money ! Why else should she at twen- 
ty-two marry a man of thirty-two ? Gratitude? Possibly. He must 
not let her sacrifice herself for gratitude. So doubt had come in. 
Ko she should not risk her happiness ; she must marry some young 
man, not uncouth, not ungenial as he. Poor heart-hungry Robin was 
one of the most generous of men. Senator Silver's marriage Avent on, 
congratulations were showered on the couple, but Robin had no 
heart in the affair, he left the wedding abruptly. 

Tip the Potomac Annie came gaily sailing with a lively party on 
a fast sloop. She had met these gay acquaintances at Mt. Vernon. 
Every one was glad to see her. Every one was gallant. A dozen 
young men sprang to set the sails. A band on board was playing. 
It was thus in triumph that Annie and Mrs. Maler arrived in Washing- 
ton, and Robin met her. With respectful tenderness he said, « I love 
you. You will love me, will you not ? You are so good and kind." 
Annie's honest eyes looked frankly into his own as she replied,— 
" We have every reason to love each other." 

Harry Kane stood at a distance and held his hat while these words 
passed. Then he came forward and shook hands. Robin asked him 
to look after the parcels while he took Annie's little hand upon his 
arm and led her to a carriage. He seated himself opposite her, lost 
in adoration. Annie was a much more attractive lady than he had 
believed ; the photograph had not done her justice. There was that 
sweet gentleness in her voice that we all love, and candor in her face. 
And Robin who believed himself uncouth, was sociable and agreeable 
like all well-bred men. 



68 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

At the hotel Robin saw Hany and Annie standing together ; they 
were making amusing remarks about the journey; they were young, 
joyous, bright, animated and seemed congenial. Harry was looking 
into her eyes. Then a low, confidential whisper passed between 
them. That, prophetic hint so apparent to tender mothers and 
match-making aunts struck Robin's loving eyes. It gave him a sad 
recoil. Why had she accepted him? He would know all at once. 
He bade good night to Harry, who, taking the hint left the room. 
Then taking Annie's hand, Robin looked deep into her pleasant eyes 
as he said, — "Darling Annie : most deeply and fervently I thank 
you for your prompt and generous acceptance of the proposal that I 
made you by telegraph, if now you can sincerely ratify it." Annie 
gave him a look of questioning surprise and said, — "What pro- 
posal did you make?" 

It was Robin's turn to be siirprised, but he rei^lied, — "My pro- 
posal was that we be married here in Washington at once." 

Annie looked up in consternation as she answered, " I never re- 
ceived that proposal." 

" Then how came you here to-night ? " 

" In response to this dispatch." She handed him the telegram. 
He read, — " Will you be hurried to me here at Washington to- 
morrow ? " 

He saw it all ; the telegrai^h operator had blundered ; he was not 
the accepted husband of Annie ! A throb of agony wrung the heart 
of Robin, a feeling that all is lost, and abrujjtly he left the room. 

The next night they were at a large party. Robin, feeling too sad 
to enjoy the brilliant spectacle but unwilling to withdraw Annie 
from this pleasure which she was enjoying, entered a small conserva- 
tory. Here Harry found him and asked him to consent to his ad- 
dresses to Annie ! Robin sprang to his feet in a tumult of rage, and 
despair. 

" How dare you ! " 

" Because I hope to win her." 

" Imj^ossible ! " 

" It is my earnest desire." 

*' And I have tenderly befriended you that you may rob me of my 
dearest treasure ! " 



THE NIGHT TRAIN. " 69 

« I love her." 

" So do I ! " 

Then Harry was astonished, staring and trembling he said, — " I 

never knew it ! " 

Robin paced the floor in deep emotion, then he stopped in front 
of Harry and demanded, " Does she love you?" 
" I am not sure, but I think she does." 

« Will you ask my fortune next ! Do you wish me to make a will 
in your favor and then drown myself?" 
" No ; but I wish to win Annie." 

« What have you to show that you are worthy of her ? " 
« Nothing." 

" What can you do with her ? You who have no property, no per- 
manent situation or business, no skill in any trade, and no visible 
means of supporting her ? Do you expect her to support you ? Do 
you require her to supply brains for both of you to make your way 
in the world?" 

*' I will furnish all the brains. I estimate female brains at low 
value. Women lack our masculine ability, our smartness, our wide- 
awake capacity. But I will devote my talents to her service." 
« Do you expect me to endow her for you?" 

"Not for me, but I will not object to your giving her, from your 
great wealth, a sufficient sum to make her life comfortable." 

"Plainly spoken! And you think that women, Annie included, 
lack ability possessed by Apollos like yourself ? " 

« I think they are not as capable for any kind of business as men." 
Robin again paced the floor for two minutes, then with forced 
calmness he said,— "Harry, once your father and I were friends; 
though he cheated me, I still love him ; for his sake I am interested 
in yo°u ; I believe that Annie would not accept me, so I give you one 
chance^ just one only chance to win Annie with my consent." 

« I will try." 

"AH my life I have had a strong desire to know of the wonders of 
lands where a hundred successive generations of men have lived and 
labored; to see what marks they have left, what^ wonders reared, 
what Europe can be. Have you any such desire ? " 



*10 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" Nothing could more delight me." 

•' America is grand; but it is new, much of it is occupied by its first 
generation. T wish to see how it compares with Europe. Moral 
grandeur, too, is liere. Wasliington on his way to be inaugurated as 
first president, by the free choice of freemen, is a grander moral spec- 
tacle than Napoleon or Coesar marching to wicked conquests. Dan- 
iel Webster rising from a farmer's boy to the first rank of lawyers, 
orators and statesmen, is more manly than any monarch ruling by 
privilege of birth alone." 

" I think so. Now for your offer." 

" You shall go abroad ! " 

" And leave Annie ? Never." 

" Here is a chance to win her and show which is the smartest, 
which the most caj^able, you or Annie." 

" I do not understand you." 

" It shall be a struggle between the two sexes, a contest for intel- 
lectual supremacy, and the prize that you may win or fail of getting 
will be immense ; it shall be a greater ijrize than was ever before of- 
fered in a race ! " 

"Racing?" 

" Yes ; it shall be a great race, it shall overshadow all yet seen in 
racing." 

" For a prize ! " 

"Yes; the great prize shall be Annie, and a half-million dollars, 
Including the fine estate of Rose Park where the winner will live." 

" You astound me ! " 

" The race track shall be half a continent. Its length shall be 
thirteen thousand miles ! " 

" More than half the distance around the world ! " 

" As far as around the world in latitude 45 degrees," 

« Indeed ! " 

" All the world shall be spectators ! " 

" Who sliall compete ? " 

" Yourself and Annie ! " 

" And we are to see which can do it in the least time ? " 

" No. That would be a race between steam and steam, in which 



PASSING THE NATIONS IN GRAND REVIEW. , 71 

a bag of sand might beat you both, a plan that would reduce the 
traveler to the level of his trunk without a trait or trace of the indi- 
vidual. Capacity, brain power, will take part in this new and great 
race ; it must decide which is most efficient, a man or a woman, 
under equal conditions. You are an athlete of Harvard's best train- 
ing ; Annie has taken a thorough mental and physical course at Vas- 
sar. You well represent a highly trained man ; she is a well culti- 
vated woman. Do you accept ? " 

" Yes, readily ; for I shall Avin easy victory." 

" Perhaps not. Instead of a race where little can be seen but 
ocean, this race is to be through the scenes most interesting to the 
human race, and you are to interview the most famous persons, and 
to make daily reports by Atlantic cable ; your observations are to be 
constantly mirrored to this side of the ocean, and promptly read and 
judged by referees. It is not a mere matter of miles, but the one 
who sees and hears and reports the most that is interesting, and also 
travels thirteen thousand miles in thirty days from New York Light 
Ship through Europe and back again to New York Light Ship, will 
be the winner ! " 

Harry's mind staggered at the tremendous proposal, tremendous 
to him ; he saw all its colossal proportions ; he asked, " What if I 
fail ? " 

" Then you get nothing. I will then marry Annie and she and I 
will live at marvelously beautiful Rose Park." 

" I accept," said Harry, "who shall be the umpires ? " 

" I name Mr. Blaine for one " 

" And I name Grover Cleveland for another." 

"Annie will name the other, who shall be chairman." 



II 

PASSING THE NATIONS IN GRAND REVIEW. 

Annie was called and informed of the affair. With sparkling eyes 
and glowing cheeks the beautiful athlete said, " I consent." 



72 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

She chose her I'eferee, Mrs. Logan. The referees with enthusiasm 
accepted their offices. " Now," said Mr. Blaine, " let us settle the old 
question of which sex is the superior in practical ability ; " and Mr. 
Cleveland declared, " The world never saw so interesting a contest." 

Preparations for the great race were quickly made, money sup- 
plied, and the referees and other eminent persons gave letters of in- 
troduction to be used, and the State Department issued passports. 
The referees came down the N. Y. Elevated IJailway and escorted 
Annie on board the majestic steamer, and bade her good speed. 

" Now, Annie, if you let him beat you I shall know that you 
love him better than you love me," said Robin as he kissed her good- 
by. The Widow Maler and Teteto were her personal staff. 

Teteto had been at a Nevada high school; here is his first "Com- 
position " ; it reveals his clear-sighted character : 

" wimin." 
ef er wimin wonzter pleez er husbun she shood pleez his stumuk bi 
wood kookin : for the hart uv man an hiz stumuk ar neer nabusz an 

o 

bes frenz : theeze fax ar tru. 1st. ef she makz the bred hevy, then 
hiz hart'll be hevy. 2nd. ef hur bakin iz crusty his manurz '11 be 
krusty. 3rd. ef hur lofz ar ony harf bakt dun, then his greabelnis 
tu her will be ony harf dun 2. er good kook iz er thing ov joy an 
buty frever." 

Here is an extract from Mrs. Cleveland's letter to a friend : 

" I find her [Miss Annie Arden] a delightful talker ; filled with 
good sense and varied information, she expresses ideas with grace 
and clearness. She is winsome and merry ; she can do housekeeping 
or delicate needlework, or discuss learned subjects." 

And this is from a college mate : 

"Annie never declared she was a fright and had nothing to wear; 
she held that young men mean well but their dullness is gigantic; 
that pickled limes are "splendid"; that candy is "gorgeous" (but 
the girls gorged themselves with it) ; one moment dignified, proper ; 
the next instant chasing a squirrel ^long the fence. She wished her- 
self a boy so she could have *' splendid " times climbing trees, setting- 
traps, and doing all such illustrioiis deeds as delight the heart of 
bovs." 



PASSING THE NATIONS IN GRAND REVIEW. ' 73 

Do not think Annie charmed by her graces without any effort. 
Like man}' charming women, and all our neighbor's wives except 
those who are our friends, she was beautifully plain. But as, in pro^ 
portion to size, we like a kitten better than an elephant, so we like 
a kittenish girl, if she only have good sense and grace. And Annie 
was gracious, graceful and good. In the richness of her thoughts, the 
vivacity of her feelings, the courtesy of her manners, the healthy 
tone of her opinions, the steady equipoise of her mind and heart, 
the ability to quickly understand the situation, and the constant ex- 
ercise of good sense and good taste, Annie was a typical, well 
educated young woman. 

Like a picnic party the sliip's passengers, social and merry, became^ 
as Teteto said, *' old friends at once," singing, telling stories, reciting 
poetry, seeing whales and porpoises, the women cackling and the 
men arguing, while in the quiet water this side of the Gulf Stream. 
"There'll be gales soon," said an old stager. " Day gales or nightin- 
gales?" asked Teteto as he sat down on the hot cylinder and got up 
at the rate of ninety miles an hour. Then came storms ; " The wind 
blew in torrents," was an entry in Teteto's diary. Many were sea- 
sick ; in agony a man groaned, " Shall we all die here ? " Teteto 
responded, " I shan't, fur I've tuk notis thet ef I lib fru Monday, I 
lib fru de week oudt till nexdt Monday, an ' here it only Friday, 
now." When the waiter scolded him for being in bed with his 
boots on, Teteto mildly said, " Xeber min', I'll stick um oudt sost y 
kin black um allee samee." 

Teteto agreed with everybody : a blonde praised an absent dark 
lady; he assented warmly; she frowned and he saw his mistake and 
added, "But it am wood-cuUud ladies I likes bes', " and the pleased 
blonde took his arm for a promenade. 

" Ireland in sight ! " shouted the watch. A sensation ran througn 
the ship. There it was, only a dimly-seen pyramid, a far-off hill of 
old Donegal. Now the sea is very rough, but the thoughts of return- 
ing Irish are on the little cabins where they spent their merry child- 
hood. More hills appeared, bold craggy, the " Bloody Forelands," 
a grand, wild front of towering cliffs, crag above crag and rocky 
heights beyond. 



74 1S,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" Hurrah for de Ian ' of my foremothers ! " shouted Teteto. 

A great rock in the water showed a human profile, then another, 
a gigantic recumbent Roman face, eyes, mouth, lips, chin and fore- 
head, all distinct ; as we approach it changes to an Irish face gazing 
up to heaven as if looking there for hope for Ireland. 

Then came a thrilling spectacle, a dismantled boat driving upon 
the rocks. The crag beyond is two hundred feet high ! Nearer is a 
sharp ridge of outlying rock ; only a narrow rift is in it ; the waves 
dash wildly foaming over it. Within two minutes those wrecked 
men mtist enter that narrow rift or enter eternity ! 

" God have mercy on their souls ! They are lost ! " cried the 
boatswain. The spectators looked on in dismay. The white roar- 
ing breakers caught the boat. It would be all over in a moment. 

" Pray for them ! Pray hard ! " shouted a clergyman. 

Teteto caught the word ; I never heard a prayer like his : "O Lor' 
save dem dar sailorraans, — but it can't be did ! " 

The wreck struck the cleft, darted through, they were saved ! 

" I'se bet tin dollaz that can't be did again ! " shouted Teteto. 
Bet not taken. 

In lat. 55° 48' nearly seven hundred and seventy-five miles further 
north than Halifax, they turned the northern point of Ireland at 
three o'clock in the morning, and in clear daylight, for, as Teteto said, 
" de twilight twiles most all night dar." They were on Lough Foyle. 
The scene was lovely, the hills, the gentle slopes, the water, the old 
ruined castle, the garden beauty of the land, the many full-blossomed 
white-thorn hedges whose sweet fragrance came across the water, the 
elegant houses that peeped through openings of the fine groves, and 
then the distant city, Londonderry. 

" How beautiful ! " exclaimed Annie. 

" If the scenery could speak it would return that compliment," re- 
sponded an Irishman with that gallantry for which his race is noted. 
On the wharf Teteto saw a horse attached to a derrick for unloading 
vessels; he called out, "Bling dat hoss marine an' lif out my glab- 
sack." 

" What a funny city ; it is walled in ! " said JVIrs. Maler. " Yes, 
these are the walls that protected it against James II and the French 



PASSING THE NATIONS IN GRAND REVIEW. " 75 

in the famous siege of 1690; you see the veiy eannon then used," 

said Jones, tlie guide. 

" Why did they erect this curious liill about thirty feet high, with 

a monuni ent upon it ? " asked Annie in the cathedral ground. 
" It is made of the ashes of those who fell in the great siege." 
Teteto put in, " They's like Mr. Moore we declamt bout to skule : 

" Lowly an' badly we jiut 'im down 
Frum der fleel uv 'im's flame, flesh and gloly. 
Wo car'd not er dime, we hove not er stone, 
But we lef ' ' im jis dar — by golly." 

At sight of the jaunting car that Annie ordered for Giant's Cause- 
way, Teteto exclaimed, " How queer ! It looks like er halo." 

"What do you mean by halo?" 

" A halo is er low cart we hauls hay ontu in Nevada," he replied. 

Away flew the car over the best country roads in the world, better 
than those of France because the Irish stone is harder. The heavier 
it rains, the better is an Irish road, for the rain only washes with- 
out damaging it as it would an American road. 

" America is behind Ireland in road making," said Annie. 

" It is behind all Europe in that useful art," replied the guide. 
"These roads are made of finely broken stone, each piece must 
pass through a screen wdth two-inch square meshes, then it is laid 
down from ten to twenty inches deep." 

" With larger stone under them ? " 

" Xo ; every stone larger than a two inch cube is taken out." 

" Even underlying boulders ? " 

" Yes ; nothing is here but the broken stone which carriage travel 
wears into this comj^act mass, smooth and solid." 

" America would do well to learn this valuable art." 

'■ It would, indeed ; good roads are lacking in America while it ex- 
cels in almost everything else." 

"Wouldn't it be well for Americans to learn road making here?" 

" They would not need to come here if they would follow the di- 
rections for using stone that I have just given you." 

" Our jails are full of idle persons, our roads are bad, our taxes are 
high : why not put the idle men of bad ways to mending the public 



76 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

ways ? But why allow that field of worthless furz in this garden 
country ? " 

" It is a rabbit warren, kejjt lor hunting ; rabbits are better jJi'O- 
tected than tenants." 

" How so ? " 

" Let a tenant starve and the landlord is unpunished, but a laborer 
got two years in ju-ison for killing a rabbit." 

" Look ! There stands in the sea a colossal human head in stone ! '* 

" It is called Napoleon's Head." 

"And there is an immense sea-washed lion ! " 

" Complete, I can see even the paw." 

*' What a fine old ruin here is ! It stands grandly alone and covers 
the whole summit of a high, detached rock, its foot is a hundred feet 
above the sea waves that dash so violently." 

"It is Dunluce, the old-time castle of the O'Donnells and O'Neils." 

" How superbly it overlooks old ocean at this extreme north end 
of Ireland." 

" Yes ; in Queen Elizabeth's time it saw the famous Spanish Ar- 
mada of 1588 make terrible wreck upon those half-sunken rocks 
yonder ; they are the Skelligs." 

" And see over there, what a singular cliff ! It looks like a colos- 
sal church organ, I can see its row of pipes bigger than trees." 

"It is a freak of nature called the Organ." 

Giant's Causway is the remains of some very large natural rocks 
that apjDcar as if they had been erected to sustain a bridge, hence 
the name. Down the cliffs they went two hundred feet to the level of 
the ocean to see the strange basalt rocks, thousands of them, each of 
five equal sides, and all compacted togetiier like honeycomb. They 
went out as far as the sea would permit. Wild waves were 
out there on that windy day ; the sea roared, it growled, it 
charged, receded, charged again ; it shook its great waves at the in- 
truders ; it brandished volumes of sjjray high in air ; it flung its 
watery missiles ; it rolled a towering wall. To Annie who loved na- 
ture's glories, all this was sublime. An old woman urged them to 
buy photographs, " I'm owld, I want money, I've been on these 
blessed rocks fer ages," she said. 



PASSING THE NATIONS IN GRAND REVIEW. , 77 

*' Wur yc hero whlin thlis bridge wer built by the owlt Irish giant 
fur a Scot giant dome ofer an fitee, an stid of fitee ole gian', him 
nially his daughter?" asked Teteto. 

" Xo, zur, but its meself '11 til yees whin I wor here." 

" Tlel away, ole ladee." 

" It's whin the party 'Merican gintleraan boy is come as i'll be a 
givin' me a saxpenee." They all laughed, and Teteto handed over a 
sixpence, won by Irish wit. Teteto not liking to be laughed at, dis- 
appeared. The rest returned to the car on the cliff. They waited 
an hour for Teteto and became alarmed. Then he appeared ; he 
was wet, draggled, forlorn. 

" What can have happened to you ? " asked Annie. 

But Mrs. Maler in a fright cried, " I declar' ! Ye look'zif ye'd swum 
frum Boston. Tell me the truth, has enny Irishei* murdered ye ? " 

Teteto assured her he was not murdered, and he told his story: 
" Bimaby Irlander guv me dlime's wuth wiskee, swallow nm, feels 
tired, he tluk me Port Coona cavern ; heap deep, under cliff, lef me 
dlar. I sleepee, wakee, see tlide clumin' in, tly git out, no way, tlide 
rloar — b-r-i--r-r-r-r — bats fly in dlar, tlide higher, dlowned me dead; 
lif I off feet, whirl roun', swim, heap swim, fin' hole in wall, crawl 
out, here be ; sure dlat big cave am one ob de footprints ob de Lor's 
mighty hand." A peasant refused Teteto's request for dry clothes 
and Teteto remarked, " Slome chaps is so mean they wouldn't gib er 
feller eben er ole stlraw hat ter kleep 'im flum starvin'." 

In fair Coleraine valley Annie exclaimed, " Beautiful Ireland ! It 
is fairer than a jjoet's dream ! " The small farms, separated by flow- 
ering and odorous white-thorn hedges, the land in high cultivation, 
a thousand farms seen at one blow of the eye, in gentle slopes almost 
level, and in all shades from the brightest Irish emerald to the brown 
new furrows, an immense patchwork miles in extent, while the small 
huts, but fifteen feet square, but thatched and whitewashed, the lit- 
tle groups of persons, the buxom wives and the smart lasses, the 
spotted cattle, and the sturdy farmers of wheat, flax and potatoes, 
made up an attractive rural scene. 

At Belfast they remarked the noble solidity of the buildings. In 
the suburbs where many cities run to piggeries and tumble-downs. 



78 J-^fiOO MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

Belfast has fine parks and elegant mansions of the linen kings. Bel- 
fast is the greatest flax center in the world. It builds iron and steel 
ships ; it is adorned by many large, noble looking men and noble 
buildings, a good library, a Methodist college and a botanical garden. 
" What lovely gardens, fine groves, thrifty shrubbery and big rhodo- 
dendrons are here, " said Annie. 

" And the people dress better than in Boston," added Mrs. Maler. 

They saw many tall men with fine features, regular and oval, 
Grecian and Roman noses, shapely mouths, symmetrical figures, 
erect and manly walk, and courteous manners eveiywhere in Ireland. 
Lovely, fertile Ireland! Better its people than its land laws and its 
liquor bars ! Whirling on through Leinster they saw many silent 
cottage walls, monuments of evictions, their roofs had been burned 
by landlords' orders ; yet each cottage had been a home as dear as 
our own home. It is not the English people of to-day that are to 
blame, it is the landlord class of both Ireland and England. 

From the top of Nelson's monument at Dublin, one hundred and 
forty feet above the street, they looked down on a great picture, a 
city extending beyond the range of the eye till lost in distance in 
the smoke of countless chimneys. " Did you ever ! " cried Mrs. 
Maler, as they saw the Hill O'Howth, its whole face a great rural 
picture, all real, all masterly, a view of great beauty. Through the 
smoky air the whole steep hillside appeared like a real wall painting, 
its pretty farms, its little cottages, its manj^ gardens, its groups of 
cattle, and then its busy people, and the white and green roAVS of 
blossomed hedges and the green trees. One corner looked a very 
paradise, even Adam and Eve not wanting, and the Widow Maler 
saw, through her powerful glass, a gallant Irishman kiss a j^retty lass, 
and Mrs. Maler exclaimed, " Isn't that refreshing ! " 

The statues in front of Trinity college — Grattan, Tom Moore, 
Goldsmith, Burke and William of Orange — delighted Teteto ; he 
asked if all Irishmen turn to stone when they die. Mrs. Maler saw 
her chance to instruct Teteto, so she said, " No ; good Irishmen go 
to heaven to become, do you know what ? " 

" No." 

" Think. What is it that fly with wings and wat ih over us by 
nisht ? " 



PASSING THE NATIONS IN GRAND REVIEW. 79 

" Skeeters ! " replied Teteto. 

They were delighted to see the gorgeous bank of Ireland, the old 
parliament houses, the rich goods, the silks and porcelains in the 
shop windows, the Leinster gallery of paintings and statuary, the 
grand St. Patrick's cathedral where they all draidc from St. Patrick's 
marvelous well, and saw the tombs and monuments of many great 
Irishmen, the colored windows, the grand roof, tlie statue of St. Pat- 
rick, rude like the thirteenth century that chiseled it, the rich choir 
carved in old oak, the elegant pulpit, and when they walked the clean 
streets Mrs. Maler said, — 

" 1 du declar, I never thot I'd come tu this ! " 

« To what ? " 

"Tu seein' a furrin city cleaner than any ' Merican city or town.'* 

" We see it now," said Annie reluctantly. 

" In Europe most cities are much cleaner than in America," said 
the guide. 

They resolved to attack Dublin Castle. Long they waited in the 
ante-room. Then came a tall, high-stjde blonde, wearing a little 
turned up nose, blue eyes to match her blue shawl, yellow hair to 
match her yellow train ; her architecture was sleek, slim and slendei', 
to match her aesthetic air ; little yellow boots showed that she stood 
on trifles ; she was clothed with many rings on her fingers ; there 
may have been bells on her toes, she seemed to be herself a belle. 
Her eyes did not drop so low as the heads of her visitors, but her 
voice, rich and sweet, like a two-for-a-cent jew's-harp, said, " This way, 
please." She glided, a streak of blue and yellow, and the party fol- 
lowed through the reception room, the state ball room and the 
grand throne room, each room elegant in stucco and fresco, and 
adorned with paintings most of them old-time portraits in bygone 
costume. Teteto seated himself calmly on the Lord Lieutenant's 
chair. When they were leaving they dared not offer this superb 
lady a fee, for she might be the duchess of all ducks herself, but that 
female boldly asked for it. 

About fourteen centuries before Christ, Ireland was subdued by 
people from Spain. The Saxons, eighteen hundred years later, in 
A. D. 450, attacked and conquered England, but they did not suc- 
ceed in attempts to conquer Ireland. The Danes laid tribute on 




'ANNIE CAJIPi GAILY SAILING." 



PASSING THE NATIONS IN GRAND REVIEW. ' 81 

England in A. D. 991 and conquered it in 1027, but the Irish re- 
pelled them. William of Normandy, on the death of Edward the 
Confessor, in 1066 conquered England, but not Ireland. There were 
Christians in Ireland in 472 when St. Patrick founded the bishopric 
of Leinster. England's first Christian was more than one hundred 
years later. 

Originally the Irish were many tribes. The land belonged to each 
tribe in common. In 1156 Henry II invaded Ireland. By the con- 
quest of Henry and of Strongbow, much of Ireland was taken and 
divided among adventurers. This was the origin of Irish landlords. 
This is their title to-day. Many later conquests extended this cruel 
system to all Ireland. Landlordism exacted the highest possible 
rent, left the Irish in deep misery. Three-fourths of them were 
Catholics, and English law barred all Catholics from parliament, 
from holding civil office, or commissions in the army, from all juries, 
from the bar, from education ; it was felony to teach a Catholic 
school ; a Catholic could neither buy nor inherit land, although they 
were a nation of farmers. A child by professing to be a Protestant 
could oust his father from that father's hard earned home and fire- 
side, and take the father's property wholly as his own, a horrible 
bribe to betray innocent parents. In 1801, by the act of Union, Ire- 
land was changed from a province to an integral part of the " King- 
dom of Great Britain and Ireland," but the same system of oppres- 
sion w^as continued. It was over this old Ireland, the home of poetry 
and song, a land as beautiful as fancy may paint, a people as patri- 
otic and generous as warm hearts and genial natures can make a 
people ; a race whose members welcome you as they would a kins- 
man, a nation that in the long ago days of the fifth century', Avhen 
England was in darkness, sent Christian missionaries to then heathen 
Germany, this sunny-hearted but often betrayed people, that 
Catholic Henry II and his Catholic and Protestant successors for 
ao-es tvrannized. Had any Irishman committed one-tenth of the 
crimes that these have done, then English rule would have hung him. 
By the census of 1891, four hundred and seventy-six thousand one 
hundred and sixty-two Irish live in Ireland. In other countries aa-e 
about twenty million of Irish blood. 
6 




DUBLIN CUSTOM HOUSE. 



WALES. 83 

III 
WALES. 

They crossed from Dublin to Holyhead, by steamer. On board 
was Mr. Stanley, the explorer of Africa, the first act of whose life, 
that of being born, was performed in Wales, when he was quite 
young. 

" Why are the farms so poor ? " asked Mrs. Maler as they were 
crossing the island of Anglesea. 

"Because a tenant may be ejected on six months notice without 
pay for improvements he has made," replied Mr. Stanley. 

"Is this not worse than in Ireland?" 

" It is, for an Irishman can now get pay for betterments if he is 
ejected. Formerly that was not the case : If an Irish tenant made 
a shed or dug a well, or set a hedge, the landlord could and some- 
times did compel him to pay i-ent on these additions of value made 
by the tenant : this is called rack-rent." 

" What a beautiful scene ! " 

" It is Menai Straits." 

« The long winding line of water, the groups and Unes of trees, 
the small groves capping the hillocks, the pretty hedges, are all ar- 
ranged in symmetry as if the landscape were made to order." 

" In ten minutes we shall enter Stephenson's famous Britania Tu- 
bular Bridge." 

" I wish to see it ; I have heard of it often." 

" Here it is, and here we enter it." 

" We rush through it in darkness like a cricket in a stove funnel." 

" Precisely : it is simply a long, large, iron tube high in the air 
crossing the strait." 

« What holds it up ? " 

'* Three tall stone piers. The tube rest on trucks, for the changes 
of heat and cold make about ten inches of vax-iation in length of the 
longest tube." 



34 ISfiOO MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

Out into daylight and the guard shouted, " Bangor ! " 

" How cahnly beautiful ! The strait looks like an enchanted river 
flowing on to Fairyland ! " 

" Seems like a place'd'orter be fil'd with men lyin' onto the grass, 
an' wimin setin' under trees a-knittin', an' gals an' boys a-playin' 
hoop," said Maler. 

" It has taken centuries of skill to subdue, tone and adorn this 
scenery. Still, like a Pawnee dressed in silk, it shows its savage ori- 
gin. Yonder is the camp of Caduant, Chester's earl, who landed 
therein 1096; nearer is Plas NcAvydd, a Druid altar; across the 
strait you see Beaumarchais where the bards were massacred. It is 
a summer resort." 

Then they plunged into a dark tunnel under the eternal rock hill ; 
then out and saw a thrifty village ; then in again under a towering 
headland ; out again and meet the sea where it makes a deep gulf 
into the cliffs with an army of tall green hills in battle line over the 
little valley; then through rock to the Aber gorge, deej), narrow ; 
you may look away high up like looking up in the dej^ths of a shaft, 
or beloAV you see a weird creek in this unnatural light. Shade-loving 
ferns, for which this uncanny spot is famous, are clinging to the rock 
walls. Then to the left down a vale is such an old mill, with out- 
side wheel, as we see in pictures, while up the narrow rock rift, the 
ragged and jagged sides seem trying to shake off the green things 
that cling to the rock, veneering it to forty times a man's height. 
They glide along the sea margin in romantic scenery, dash through 
a tunnel under the great cliff, see a flash of light up a deep wild 
rock gorge, again dash into the tunneled rock, and out at Tinmouth, 
among hills steep and tall, two crested heights, like helraeted 
knights, standing over it ;' then on into a broad meadow in a bay of 
cliffs, the high rock perforated by miners as swallows make holes in 
a clay bank. 

Then came the black tunnel, intense darkness, a thousand mid- 
nights concentrated, fountains of water pouring from the stone roof 
upon the car, with a heavy resounding ; steam and smoke thicken ; 
the car shakes ; the world seems to tremble ; half-stunned by the noises 
one feels like being hurled through ink. Is a dragon rushing with 



WALES. 85 

the train to Pluto's shore ? No ; St. George slew the dragon. Are 
you rushing to the " bad place " below? No; fire and brimstone 
make light, while here all is darkness. 

« What a place for a colusion ! " cried Widow Maler. 

" Jis termenjus smashcrashin' ! " put in Teteto. 

Out at last, they cross a river with flat banks, dash through an- 
other tunnel and come out at the queer market town of Conway, 
once protected by twenty-seven towers, a triangle within three high 
walls, the castle forming one side ; still a spot of the middle ages. It 
is a beautiful, romantic place. Here artist Nature has piled crag 
over crag, sunk deep gorges, surrounded a little bay with high cliffs 
and stood up great high hills, and then in a softer mood has put in 
a lovely vale, given crowns of woodlands to the hills, decked the 
crags with living green ; and then artist men have adorned what 
Nature so grandly planned. It is a romance of beauty, the eye is 
delighted, the senses beguiled by these luxurious charms. 

They crossed the Conway through the tubular bridge, three 
hundred and twenty-seven feet long, passed through a tunnel under 
part of the castle, came out and saw high above them, 

CONWAY CASTLE. 

" Magnificent ! " they all exclaimed. 

" De cassle doan seem bad mint," said Teteto. 

" It has been restored as in the old days of chivalry," said Jones. 

"It looks as if it had just stepped out of the frame of some old- 
time picture," remarked Annie. 

" North Wales is denied fertility, but it has wealth of mine and 
cliff, and crag and gorge, and grove and vale and brook," said .Jones. 

" It has indeed." 

"Just yonder is Lundudno, queen of North Wales beauty." 

East of Conway the cliffs, till now crowding the sea, stand back a 
mile or more, and farms cover hill and dale. A line of trees, like a 
line of soldiers, on the side hills extends for miles. Not far beyond 
Llandulas is the spot where Richard II was betrayed to his rival to 
the throne. Soon Teteto asked, " Wat thlat black in'.c spot on steep 
face ob rock ? " 

'* It is the mouth of Yr Ogof , a magnificent cavern, its existence 
is little known in America." 



gg 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" We are on interesting ground." 

" Yes, here is Giant's Castle, one of the most complete Roman 
camps in Great Britain." 

" Coppa'r Loylf a ! " called the guard. 

" Remains of an ancient British tower ; its foot was on that prec- 
ipice, one hundred and ninety-six feet high. 

" Gwrych Castle ! " 
■ " Old Welch : it once had eighteen high towers." 

" Rhyll ! " 

" On this fair hill slope, just out of Rhyll, over eleven hundred 
years ago, in 785, the Saxons under Off a, king of Mercia, in an ob- 
stinate conflict, defeated the Welch under pnnce Caradog." 

« Rhuddlan Castle ! " 

" This is three miles from Rhyll. Edward I built it in the four- 
teenth century. Here Parliament was held and the statues of Rhud- 
dlan enacted. Just Yonder Henry III, in 1241, built Dyserth 
Castle. Near by are lead mines." 

« Holywell ! " 

" St. Winifred's miraculous well, once covered by a monkish edi- 
fice, its waters are still used for rheumatism. It is still in repute 
with Catholics. The floAv of water is above one hundred tons a 
minute. Yonder are the ruins of the abbey (Barnigraek) built nine 
hundred years ago." 

"Tlars Bunkum Hill monyraunt." 

" That is a great chimney for furnaces in the deep mine under it." 

" But no seeum buildin's." 

" There are none ; the j^eople are all down in the mine." 

" Likee groun' hog in 'im hole ? " 

" Yes. Now we have reached a fertile valley ; this river is the 
Dee. We here cross the line into England." 

" It looks like a cultivated j^rairie of Kansas." 

" Just over there is Gladstone's home." 

Annie was lookinij throucch her jrlass. She said, "•'! see a man over 
there ; he has chopped down a tree." 

" It is Gladstone himself ; he likes to chop down trees." 

*'T' tree looks chopfallen, sure," said Teteto. 



ENGLAND. - 87 

IV 

ENGLAND. 

In a carriage they drove about Chester. « It seems strange to see 
an ohl walled city," remarked Annie. 

« This is an old town ; the Romans cut two streets in the rock so 
that sixteen feet of the second story forms a long promenade open 
in front, and reached from the street by steps, with private homes 
above and warehouse below and shops within. The Puritans took 
Chester from Charles I, who stood in this old tower and saw his 
forces defeated. Some of the houses are quaintly timbered." 

In route beyond Chester they saw flocks of women doing farm 
work in the fertile lields. They found Birmingham to be a large 
city of many manufactures ; almost every trade seems to be there ; 
it is a great hive of industry. But liquor drinking there is a great 
evil. At Warwick Castle, amid the curiosities of many centuries, 
the old armor, the fine paintings, the cedars of Lebanon brought 
from Palestine seven hundred years ago, they <b-eamed away an 
hour. At Kennilworth Castle ruins they grieved over the troubles 
of Amy Robsart and the love story of Queen Elizabeth and Leister, 
and then went to Coventry and looked at " Peeping Tom," and heard 
again the quaint old story of the good lady Godiva, who, to free the 
people from unjust taxes, rode naked as an angel through the town, 
and that Tom was struck blind for peeping. Then, American like, 
they went on to Stratford-on-Avon, the birthplace of Shakespeare. 

Their first impressions were incredulity that a man of his culture 
could have lived in so poor, cheap, and rough a house. The floor of 
the living-room is flag-stone irregular in shape and not fitted, but 
showing large gaps between stones. The long fireplace with his 
chair in it, is the only thing that looks cosy. The finish is rough. 
The room up-stairs, where he was born, is so low that a short person 
can reach the ceiling. The very small panes of glass (about five by 
six inches) are covered with names of pilgrims to this shrine of Hter- 



88 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

ature ; they saw those of Scott and Irving. This floor is of unplaned 
and unmatched oak hoards, big cracks at their ends and sides show 
rudeness of carpentering. The walls contain an incredible number 
of names. To their surprise they found not a scraj) of Shakespeare's 
writing in the house. Many unimportant persons have placed their 
own portraits here, among which it requires search to find the few 
relics of the great man, his seal ring for his thumb, and a few trifles. 
Most interesting is a cast of his face taken after death, which shows 
the actual form of the great bard's features. All the paintings of 
him show brown, coffee colored eyes except one with blue eyes. 

At his grave in the church they felt the place is sacred, for under 
their feet are the ashes of him, who, in literature, among all the mil- 
lions who have lived, has no j^eer ; him whose mind has become 'a 
part of the world's great mind, a part of the world's education. 

"You are standing now just on the very spot where stood Shake- 
speare and Anne Hathaway, in 1582, when they were solemnly pro- 
nounced husband and wife," said Jones. " Here, doubtless, he was 
christened, here married and here buried. For many generations the 
world will come as we to-day have come," added Annie, " to see his 
home and his grave." 

" The bust of him that you see upon the wall was placed there by 
his daughter, six years after his death. She must have approved it 
as a likeness of him. It shows the face perhaj^s broader and with 
less of nervous lines than the common j^ortraits of him. 

As they were passing Oxford, where are twenty colleges, they saw 
many youths bathing in the stream. Teteto remarked, " I'se see de 
river am well boyed. 

AT majesty's shrine. 

Robin had cabled to London to get Annie presented at court. 
This was not easy to arrange. But Mr. White, Secretary of our 
Legation, overcame all difliculties. Mrs. Vere would present her. 
The required dress came by accident ; Mrs. Vere's daughter had 
prepai'ed all for herself, but she generously gave Annie her own privi- 
lege ; Annie would go instead, so the invitation was changed. Miss 
Vere was exactly of Annie's size, so the dress fitted just right. 
Here is Annie's story : 







HEIfRY M. STANLEY. 



^ 



90 ISfiOO MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

" With our trains over our arras Mrs. Vere and I entered the car- 
riage. Through a crowd of gazing bystanders a footman plowed 
a way for us. The trains filled all the rest of the carriage. It grew 
exciting as we passed other parties into whose carriages the mob 
was gazing. We saw glimpses of faces within, over a maze of silk, 
satin, illusion and flowers. We entered the park and took our place 
in the line of gaily decked carriages in that dazzling procession 
which twinkled with jewels and flowers. Then a general carriage 
reception for an hour in the park, where friends in groups came up 
with their sprightly chat. The weather was superb, so this was a 
gay affair. At the palace doors the carriage was opened and an 
official in smart livery said, ' Allow me to take your train, Madam.' 

"I stepped on the threshold and the scarlet official puc my train 
on my arm and ray bouquet in my liand. The stage fright vanished 
as quickly as it had come, and I swept up the great staircase, through 
lines of sentries and guards in dashing uniform, to the room where 
were assembled the highest ladies of England, in glittering, shimmer- 
ing, sjjarkling array of gorgeous colors and dazzling jewels. We 
were ushered into a vast room hung with portraits, but the pictures 
in which I was most interested were the living ones before me. I 
held ray breath at the blinding vision ; duchesses, countesses, in 
gowns more wonderful than the most nimble fancy could picture. 
This occasion inspires them to enthusiasm in dress. For ordinaiy 
occasions they do not dress — they merely wear clothes. It came 
our turn to move. I was sorry to have the beautiful tableau dis- 
solved, although the curtain went down on it only to rise on the 
most brilliant, thrilling scene of the play:- my presentation to the 
court of England was but a few moments distant. As I neared it 
my heart beat a lively tune. I saw two officials spreading out Mrs. 
Vere's train ; I heard lier name called, and then, as in a dream, I 
felt those same officials take my train from my arm, heai'd my own 
name called ; the moment had come. A long line of royalties, a line 
of officials facing them, through which Mrs. Vere was courtesying 
her way, and I was to follow. A glitter, a flash, a dazzle of crown 
jewels and I had taken the plunge. Five courtesies, and there was 
the Queen in all her glory. A deep reverence, a light kiss of her 




suakespeake's home. 



92 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

hand. The most awful moment was over, I might look other royal- 
ties in the face, see what they are really like, if only the lady who 
followed me would not come on so fast. 

" Five more courtesies, my train once more put over my arm, and I 
started on my career of backward courtesies. Back ! Back ! Would 
that long room ever come to an end? I asked myself with the first 
courtesy. Witli the second came courage, and as I made the third, 
I would ha,ve felt well if only that next lady would be slower ; but 
on she camo, swift as time, and I must go on. 

" ' It is over, you may turn now,' whispered Mrs. Vere. It had 
seemed long, but really did not last a minute. Then I felt cheated ; 
it had been but a twinkle ; I had not half seen the royal family. I 
wanted to go back and do it all over. Xow that I had practice what 
a pity not to use it ! I stood behind the guards and saw the next. 
Then I saw how six yards of train were managed while I was passing 
the royalties. The page who spread it out gave it to the official op- 
posite the first royalty. As she passes to the next royalty he passed 
on the train to the next official and so on, and at the end of the line 
it is put on her arm." 

Just then, standing in the blaze of royal glory, Annie beheld a sight 
that astonished her. 

Widow Maler was coming ! She was advancing to be presented 
to the Queen ! Without a court dress, how she passed the guards 
was a mystery. But there she was, brisk and lively. Her name was 
not called. So she announced it like a war cry, "Mrs. Maler, of 
'Merik}^ marni ! " The Queen put oiit her hand for ]Mrs. Maler to 
kiss it ; but she seized it fervently and shook it witli genial cordial- 
ity, and fired off these words : 

"How d'ye do, marm? Glad t' see 3^eh. Hope yer well an' 
hapjjy. When ye come t' 'Meriky gimme er call. Shill be glad t' 
see yell ! How d'ye like bein' a queen ? " 

British politeness requires that one show sui-prise at nothing ; so 
the queen took it calmly, she could not blush, her complexion is 
already too red for a blush to show on it. The Prince of Wales 
gave a guardsman a look, and the tall soldier took Mrs. Maler on 
his arm and conducted her away so gently that she believed an 



IIARUY KANE. - 93 

honor was being done her. They waited in their carriage at the 
foot of the stairs and saw the radiant throng of female beauty and 
splendor come down. That was the end ; the play was over. 



V 

HARRY KAXE. 

Eager to win Annie and 1500,000, Harry Kane arrived in Liv- 
erpool. T. P. O'Connor, M. P., met him, by request, to show 
him a little of Liverpool, but Harry proposed to stay only two 
hours. He wished to see the celebrated docks. Mr. O'Connor 
showed him several miles of them. Said he, " Liverpool's commerce 
by steamers extends to many points of the three Americas and 
Europe, Australia, Asia and Africa, it is world-wide. The inven- 
tions of Hargreaves' jenny in 1767-70, Arkwright's rollers in 1769, 
the card machine and Crompton's jenny in 1780, Perkin's steel 
stamps and Cartwright's power loom in 1785, and "Whitney's cotton 
gin in 1793, and James Watt's steam engine, gave it the impulse 
and power to become one of the great business centers of the world. 
" How do railways get through the town ? " 

*'By four great underground tunnels, from 1% to 2% miles long." 
**Are there many moral and religious organizations?" 
•'About two hundred churches and chapels, and one hundred 
charities?" 

"And the educational?" 

« Many church schools, several colleges, a medical institute, art 
school, Lyceum, atheneum, museum, news rooms and libraries, and 
many associations." 
"And amusements?" 
*' Numerous theaters and concert rooms." 
"And places where persons may breathe fresh air?" 
" Stanley, Sefton, the Botanic and the Prince's parks adorn the 
place." 
At siijht of the black statues of Wellington, Nelson, Huskinson, 



94 ISfiOO MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, and William IV, Kelo marveled : 
" I neber nohow sabe folks turn to stone thataway ! " 

"Nature has done great things for the English," said this Irish 
O'Connor. "They are born with enterprising dispositions, strong 
intellects, large frames, brain and brawn, and they know how to do 
business. An immense advantage it is that they have the best of 
coal and iron ore, and deep water harbors, close together, and a 
climate in which men can do a great amount of work. These and 
tlie accumulated capital are the means by which they are so great 
shipbuilders, and England and Scotland the great manufacturing and 
trading country of the world. In this region I will name ten large 
places besides Liverpool, all of which you may visit in one day, 
whose very existence is unknown to nine out of ten Americans, 
and yet the ten contain above a million of people, and each alone 
has more big factories than the whole state of Maine contains. They 
are Blackburn, Bolton-le-Moors, Oldham, Rochdale, Burnley, Bury, 
Wigan, St. Helen's, Preston, and then Saalfeld. 

" You astonish me," said Harry. 

" Right here in Lancashire is probably the second greatest popu- 
lation center in the world, second only to London and almost equal- 
ing that. In London are reckoned all within a circle of fifteen miles 
from Trafalgar square, which makes an area thirty miles in diameter. 
Take a thirty-mile diameter, with Liverpool in its rim, and you will 
include several million of persons." 

"Would this include Manchester':"' 

" Yes ; and many more large places. I will start with you to-day 
at ten a.m. from St. Helen's, twelve miles north of Liverpool ; we 
will, in a few hours, drive through ten large towns, each of which 
does more manufacturing than the average American state." 

" Are you jesting ? " 

" I am in earnest." 

" It seems impossible ! " 

"You will see." 

They started in a light, open carriage. As they approached St. 
Helen's, Harry was startled by the spectacle. Great columns of dense 
black smoke, the equal in mass he had never seen, was rising from 



HARRY KANE. - 95 

many points, forming immense inky clouds that actually hid the sun ! 
The immense ink-cloud seemed supported by those massy ebony col- 
umns. It was an umbragous temple of smoke that appeared to cover 
creation. It was a strange spectacle. The air was smoke ; the world 
seemed filled with smoke ; away to right, away to left, directly in 
front, the monster, somber volumes rolled upward. Blacker than 
thunder clouds, their shadow darkened the earth I Sodom and Go- 
morrah, when being destroyed by fire from heaven, must have ap- 
peared like this ! If as startling, as enormous, as broad, then no 
wonder that the lamented Mrs. Lot turned to look back, astounded 
at the big smoke spectacle! Well might astonishment strike her 
into a pillar or a pillory of anything. 

" Looks like a world on fire ! " exclaimed Harry. 

« This is St. Helen's." 

" What is St. Helen's ? " 

" A large, scattered place. These fires are made to raise coal from 
mines, and to run tanneries and breweries, and to work in iron, 
copper, brass and plate glass. Work is whirling here." 

" I never heard of this place before." 

They drove on, saw Wigan, with its many churches, numerous cot- 
ton factories, iron works and brass works. Mr. O'Connor asked, 
" Did you ever in America hear of this place ? " 

« Never." 

They passed through Chorley, and saw that it has large coal, lead 
and iron mines, big cotton, alum, slate and iron works ; but Mr. 
O'Connor said that as the average American state may have as ex- 
tensive manufacturing and mining, he would throw in Chorley 
gratis. There is nothing mean about Mr. O'Connor. 

" You have heard of Bolton-le-Moors ?" 

" Never. What is it ? " 

" This is it. A great manufacturing place, cotton center, millions 
of cotton spindles ; above forty foundries ; so many dye works that 
the river is dyed with the waste. Many mines here." 

" It seems a busy place." 

" Now we have come to Preston." 

" Well, what is Preston ? Any more of your deep dyed stories ? " 



96 ISfiOO MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

" A great j^lace for manufactures ; many churches ; great brass 
foundries ; big iron furnaces ; glass making ; scores of big cotton 
factories." 

Then turning easterly through Blackburn and Burnley, they again 
turned south and saw the marvelous industries of Rochdale, Bury, 
Oldham, and Saalfield to Manchester. Harry saAV as many as a 
hundred and twenty cotton factories in a single town ! In all of 
them he beheld manufacturing so extensive, so really enormous, as 
to arouse his lively astonishment. 

" All these ten great places, not including Manchester, were un- 
known to me till noAV ! " he said. "And yet I believed I was well 
informed in affairs of the world." 

The Queen was coming to Liverpool to open an exhibition. Harry 
gives an eye-witness' account of the affair, viz: 

*' This was a great occasion, and the Queen does not often go 
there. Other cities sent their throngs. 

*'An innumerable multitude filled the streets. It seemed as if the 
whole nation were there. Everywhere were masses of crowding, 
pushing humanity, of all ages and conditions, and of no condition. 
Mingled with the throngs were many thousands of children, some 
of them quite small. It was surprising that these midgets were not 
crushed : but they seemed accustomed to being in the crowded 
streets. The street was the home of too many of them. They 
were a comjilete assortment of all kinds, qualities, sizes and ages, 
born paupers, natural outcasts, wharf rats, gutter snij^es, covered 
with dirt; lucky if they were half covered with rags; ghastly, 
ghostly little beings, wandering waifs, and broods of equally ghostly, 
drunken, filthy, depraved parents. Their equals can hardly be 
found, except in lowest New York. Yet they glided through the 
great crowds with the skill of experts. No more pitiable sight than 
these street unfortunates, of the great commercial city. 

*' On this grand holiday celebration, everywhere, upon everything, 
were gay decorations. Great triumjDhal arches, gorgeously decora- 
ted, sjianned the streets. Flags were flying from almost every build- 
ing. Streamers, banners, mottoes were everywhere displayed. Tlie 
buildings, the sti'eets, the whole city itself was in its gayest holiday 



HARRY KANE. 97 

attire. And thousands of the well dressed, clean and respectable, 
mingled with those in rags and tatters in their eagerness to see the 
Queen. 

" That immense throng was in enthusiasm of loyalty. They were 
about to see Royalty itself. Few of them had ever seen their Queen, 
Men who had seen her long ago, before her husband's death caused 
her to reserve herself so much from the public, now made themselves 
interesting by stating that fact. I have heard Englishmen say that 
she is unpopular with the English because of lier alleged avarice, ex- 
clusion, peculiar habits and mental aberation. But there was not a 
sign of unpopularity liere. Everybody seemed excited with attach- 
ment to her. "Whatever may be her faults, nobody can deny that her 
reign has been by far the best in all England's long, eventful history. 
No reign in all history, in the broad world, shows a greater progress 
of a great people than hers. I do not attribute this great progress 
to her, but to the peo23le themselves. 

In that forenoon the chilly rain fell slowly, steadily. Yet before 
ten o'clock every street that she was to traverse was filled ; every 
space, every spot occupied by good humored throngs, countless in 
thousands. In many streets the police kept open, for j)assers, only a 
narrow, single file path, next the wall. As the time approached for 
the Queen to appear, a great force of lai'ge policemen opened a 
way for her to the exhibition, through four and one half miles of 
human beings ! This lane, about ten feet wide, was, for all that long 
distance, bordered on each side by a row of big policemen, near 
enough together to reach each other. I wondered where England 
got so many large men for ijolicemen. I was answered, truly, that 
she raises them. Verily there are giants in that land. Of those 
big fellows, eight thousand stood in those two long lines, between the 
Britons gushing witli loyalty and the path through which their 
Queen was to make her brilliant dash. This was not all. Large 
bodies of additional police, well armed, were close at hand, standing 
in columns in side streets all along the entire route, ready for instant 
action. The rough class, in full force, api^eared good humored. 
It seemed strange, all this great police force, when the masses ap- 
peared so exuberantly loyal. 
7 



98 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" Gossip was busy all the morning. ' The Queen has actually come ! 
She has certainly arrived ; it was at four o'clock this moi-ning ; it 
was by special train ; she must be fatigued ; she is taking a nap ; did 
you see her ? She looked well ; the Guards are M'ith her ! We shall 
see the Guards ! Princess Beatrice is Avith her ! I saw her ! I got 
up at two o'clock and waited ! ' 'I never saw her,' said others, 
' After to-day I can say I have seen the Queen.' This talk was 
everywhere. A stout, elderly man, stirred enthusiasm as far as his 
voice could reach, by declaring that he saw her that morning, and 
that she is just as straight as she was forty years ago. Straight is 
an amusing word when applied to hei', as that short, four feet and 
ten inches tall and very stout elderly lady is almost as round each 
way as a globe. 

" Long the throngs waited. The rain still fell ; but they minded it 
little. The air was very chilly ; but still that countless multitude, 
those four and one half miles of human beings, waited there for their 
Queen. All the windows were full of heads. Lancashire, Che- 
shire and Staffordshire had swarmed and lighted here. I had been 
all up and doAvn this route early that morning, while the crowds were 
forming, and I had seen many drunken men and drunken women 
reeling about, falling into the deep mud, lifted up to stagger on, 
crushing against the crowd and falling again. But now those already 
drunk were braced up by this dense packing of humanity. They 
could not fall. Again recurred the wonder why hundreds of thou- 
sands of those street children were not crushed and trampled to 
death. It was not so noisy as an American crowd. For long dis- 
tances all of the many side streets were filled with carriages, wag- 
ons, drays and carts, covered with people. At last the rain ceased ; 
but the air was still misty, dismal with low hung clouds. It Avas 
interesting to hear the rumbling tones of those minglino: voices of 
that great throng ; many thousands gossiping at once. 

" The thunder of cannon announced that the Queen had started. 
Then we heard away off at the head of the line beyond the masses 
of buildings, the sound of cheering. It came thundering on, a 
mighty voice, rolling down the long line, the tremendous voice of a 
great multitude. From my position I could see a long way up and 



HARRY KANE. ■ 99 

down the lino. Away off I saw an ocean of hats suddenly fly into 
the air. 

"'The Queen is coming!' shouted everybody. 'There she 
comes ! ' 

"Enthusiasm was wild. One mighty roar of cheering from one 
hundred thousand throats : one hundred and fifty thousand hats and 
handkerchiefs waving : two hundred thousand people standing upon 
tiptoe to look over those in front. Then a mass of high nodding, 
rapidly dashing plumes, seen above everything else is approaching. 
The royal cortege comes in a rapid dash, for Victoria, like Jehu of 
old ' driveth furiously.' First came the brilliant Guards, those tall 
magnificent young men, every one a six footer ; their splendid bear- 
skin caps and waving plumes making them look still taller ; all 
stunningly gorgeous in broadcloth and dazzling in gold ; all mounted 
upon handsome large black horses. The Guards themselves are one 
of the famous sights of England. Then followed several officers, 
mounted and gay, and then came the royal open carriage, drawn by 
eight horses in splendid harness : each near horse Avas ridden by a 
young man in light blue silk skullcap ; old style white-gray wig> 
GOV ered with hair powder, and with its long cue tied behind with 
ribbon bows ; their young faces, powdered with white, making them 
look like wax works of old gentlemen ; with short light blue jackets, 
and gilt globe buttons, buff vests, white linen trousers, and their 
long top boots. This singular, quaint costume made them seem like 
weird strange creatures, just stepped out of some old time legend. 
Motionless each sits his horse and looks straight forward. 

** Victoria in the open barouche does not look queenly. Short 
and very fat she looks unwieldy. She seemed pleased. Two ladies 
were with her. The multitude cheered, and the Queen kept her 
large head bowing affably, — the royal family return every one's bow, 
— and her very large and very red face glowed upon her loyal sub- 
jects like unto a harvest full moon ; and in a moment she was gone 
far down the line. 

" lu that great multitude were people of every condition, high and 
low, and of no condition ; many were certainly out of condition, 
of dilapidated, extremely dirty, ragged, friend-forsaken looking men, 



100 i3,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

"Women and children, I saw thousands, a great army of men, women 
and children in rags, tatters, ghostly, nnearthlj^ faces, that looked as 
if they came from deep down in England's mines, and never were 
touched by the health-giving sunshine ; comjDlexions, unearthly, 
unlike any I ever saw elsewhere : men with misery stamped all 
over them : women, deathly, unnatural pictures of terrible suffering : 
children, shadowy, demoralized, wretched, punished by hunger, 
overshadowed by crime : thousands on thousands of persons of all 
ages, covered with the sad marks of destitution ; of drunkenness, 
of imprudence ; miserable ! O how miserable ! 

" This in the heart of the emporium of one of the greatest, perhajis 
the greatest, commercial and manufacturing districts on earth. The 
condition of some of those peoj^le would be more hopeful if they had 
enough self respect to wash themselves. Water is plenty. I ob- 
served many whose rijiped and torn clothes might have been re- 
paired by the wearers if they would, so it seems to be partly their 
own fault that they dress in dirt with rags mixed in it. Yet Liver- 
pool streets are fairly clean. All city streets that I have seen in 
Europe are cleaner than those of America. France is clean. In 
Holland the national mania is neatness. In Rotterdam I saw women 
wash the fronts of the houses and the sidewalks every morning. 
Bright, beautiful Amsterdam is marvelously clean." 

Yet Liverpool is a town of great wealth, of tremendous enterprise, 
of world-wide commerce, and, besides the wretches, it has a great 
pojjulation of clean, thrifty, energetic, manly and enlightened people. 
If the lower class could only be freed from the terrible misery of 
drink and dirt they might become as respectable as the common 
people of Chester, Oxford, Glasgow, Manchester, York and Hull. 

With all Britain's extensive trade, its stu2:)endous manufactures, it 
needs still larger markets. It has in a single year manufactured and 
exj)orted cotton cloth enough to make a garment for every man, 
woman and child in all the world. The trade between the United 
States and Britain is the richest trade in the world. 

British towns increase with astonishing rapidity. Not alone is 
America advancing at railroad speed ; Britain, too, is rushing ahead. 
For instance, Barrow-on-Furness in 1847 was a little fishing village 



HARRY KANE . 101 

of three hundred persons ; to-day it is a great pLace ; has immense 
steel works ; builds some of the very largest and best iron and steel 
steamships that sail the ocean. Its deep, natural harbor ; its rich, 
red hematite iron ore, and cheap and near supply of coal, render it 
more favored than any American locality for manufacturing. It has 
a copper mine, cheap iron, cheap copper, cheap coal and a fine natural 
harbor; what more can industry require except a market? 

The same place is rich in castellated remains of bygone ages. If 
you Avish to romantically muse among the grass-grown ruins of old 
times, and long dead heroes of the feudal ages, you may at Furness 
Abbey, a romantic spot ; contemplate the moldering arches and 
broken columns that still tell the story that many centuries ago 
powerful ones of the earth lived here in grandeur, and made these 
now decayed walls ring with their living voices. 

Or, weary, you seek delightful rest at the celebrated " Lake Dis- 
trict," once the home of the " Lake Poets, " Coleridge, Wordsworth 
and Southey, a wondrously beautiful spot. Lake Windermere is a 
continuous picture of lovely beauty; everywhere charmingly be- 
witching. Not the bold grandeur that I saw in the high Alps of 
Switzerland, where nature with bold hand has seemingly piled up 
tremendous masses of material with which to build another world, 
where the stupendous majesty, the awful magnificence of nature, 
strikes you dumb with awe ; nor is Windermere as I saw in the 
Alpine gorge of Ticino, a mile and a half sheer above me, the still 
hio-her heights pouring their masses of melted snow and many days 
heavy rainfall, sheer down from precipices of enormous height, some- 
times a thousand feet at a single massive bound to strike some bold 
cliff, fly into great bursting spray, gather again and spring again down 
another thousand feet, to burst again and spring again, and finally 
to rush away througli the ever roaring Ticino to the fertile plains of 
upper Italy. Xot like this is lovely Windermere : but it is as though 
some giant artist painted a grand picture eleven miles long and one 
mile broad, of rich, soft beauty, of wooded shores, of pretty islands, 
of tender coloring, of gentle slopes, of many charming villas, and 
then the pretty little cottages, peeping out from the trees at one as 
you pass in the little, almost fairy steamer, over these tree and hill- 



102 13,000 MILES OF SIGUT-SEEING. 

reilectiug waters ; the qiieen of English lakes ; the spot for hai^py, 
waking dreams. From a 23leasant grove, and nestled in foliage and 
shrubbery, I saw Mrs. Heman's "Dove's Nest," a stately villa, look- 
ing down upon us. So lovely, so tranquil, so entrancing is every- 
thing that you involuntarily exclaim, " iSTo wonder this was once the 
retreat of famous poets. Who, indeed, could live here and not be- 
come a poet, or an artist ? " 

SCOTLAND. 

Harry took the fast express, and, flying at the rate of a mile a 
minute, lie arrived at the great Scotch city, one of the great distrib- 
uting i)oints of the world's trade, solid Glasgow. It is indeed a noble 
city. Through it, across narrow Scotland and via Hull and Grimsby, 
England, is one of the world's great routes of travel and trade from 
America to the north of Euroj^e. Tlie further north, the smaller 
around is the globe. Lay a line on the map from New York or Bos- 
ton and see how it just avoids the Nova Scotia coast, runs through 
GlasgoAv and Edinburgh, away to several lands of north Eurojje. By 
this route come many north country emigrants to America. Scot- 
land is jjoor in farming, but rich in business. Glasgow with its solid 
buildings built to stand a thousand years, its good streets, its fine 
squares, its out door statuary, its big stores and shoj^s, by its hand- 
some women and active men, by its astonishing enterprise, its great 
ship building, its freedom of thought and action, its university, its in- 
dustries, its trade, its eminent men, and its memories of its James 
Watt and Henry Bell, has made itself one of the great cities that 
influence mankind. 

Whoever knows well Scott's irhmortal poem, the " Lady of the 
Lake," hns in its accurate description of scenery and j^laces, an admir- 
able guide-book of the Scotch lake district. That is a good poem. 
Its fault is that its events ought never to have occurred. But many 
a tlnilling story is spoiled by its actors behaving well. And then how 
that knight, King James, no doiibt drunk, ran his noble horse to 
death, and how he flirted with the Douglas' fair daughter, and how 
they all made mischief generally, and some met their deserts, behold 



HARRY KANE. X03 

are they not all chronicled in that jioem ? The summit scenery as 
you see it now is as Scott describes : 

" Their rocky summits, split and rent, 
Formed turret, dome or battlement, 
Or seemed fantastically set, 
With cupola or minaret. 

And below. 
So wondrous wild, the whole might seem. 
The scenery of a fairy dream. 

Where, gleaming with the setting sun. 
One burnished sheet of living gold, 
Loch Katrine lay beneath him, rolled." 

All the spots named by Scott are real. The guide showed Harry 
where, 

" Till, as a rock's huge point he turned, 
A watch-fire close before him burned." 

That very rock stands nearly two hundred feet high, and was also 
Rob Roy's lookout. Har;-y climbed it and gathered heather for 
book marks. Loch Katrine is beautiful. Great masses of rock He 
like fallen hills on the mountain sides. They sailed upon the lake, 
but it was a chilly air, and not enjoyable ; rather a " quick sail with 
small profits" Harry said. The Highlanders are a hardy race. 
Else how could they have lived? What could have originated, in 
that cold climate, seven hundred miles higher latitude than Halifax, 
the old costume, which was minus costume for the legs? Kelo 
did not like it at all, he said that rather than go with his knees ex- 
posed to Scotch weather he would prefer to be a millionaire and 
done with it. The very best of the poor Highland land looks as 
just adapted to the style of mowing machine that Lincoln once rec- 
ommended to a farmer, as sure to cut a straight swath, no matter 
how drunk was the driver. The Highlanders are self reliant. 

"Gentlemen of the Jury," said a Scotch judge, "have you agreed 
on your verdict ? " 

" I've ageet, mon, but near a body o' teitliers has," replied honest 
Sandy, who was so unlucky as to be on jury with eleven stubborn 
men. 



104 13^000 MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

In old times, it is said, a wizard advised the Scotch to live on 
animal food : so they at once took to a diet of oats. 

They were whirling on towards Edinburgh, Kelo, trying to read a 
newspaper, muttei-ed, " Naptlia lield at twenty-three pence ! Let's 
see ; Napthy ar one uv th' olt prophitz ; I tliiink he died intu olt 
Jusalem timez : but seems zo he's 'live, an got in't' piece court, an 
gotter giv bonz fu' 23 pens. Wonder wat he got hisself tuk up fur ?" 

Kelo was queer and guileful ; his worst enemy admitted it. The 
most of his head was behind his ears ; his forehead sloped as gently 
as a Kansas prairie hill, but at the top was a hollow like a buffalo 
wallow. His hair resembled dried prairie grass, and was cut in a 
square bang across his low brow ; his nose started bravely down as 
if it intended to rest its foot on the earth, but, alarmed, turned 
quickly up and shied to one side ; his mouth formed a battle line 
nearly across his broad face, before which his chin rapidly retreated ; 
the line of his teeth was as irregular as that of a company of militia. 
Nature gave his eyes a detective look, a twist and querl in various 
directions; sometimes they each seemed trying to look at his im- 
mense ears. " That boy will make his mai'k in the world," said his 
mother ; so he did, for he never could write. 

They spent the night at a country inn. The hostess was cranky 
with Kelo because she thought him a heathen. But she mentioned 
that she had married a fool. Kelo retorted for the absent husband, 

" An' yer man, he cel'bratid hiz wooden weddin' on his weddin' 
day by marryin' er blockhead." 

" Ye'U pay muckle for that spring chicken for a' that siseakin'." 

"Are you sure its er rale spring chi'k'n, marm? " 

" Its no a lee. I've had that chicken ever sia' he wa' born, that 
spring of uv the Gypshun war." 

" Wat sorter country ar' dis ar' Scotlin, marm ? " 

*' It flows Avith whisky an' oatmeal." 

" W'isky ar' bad. I blev 't' forbid'n fruit war apples, an' Adum 
made um inter apjjlejack an' drinkt it, wich is wat made 'im fall." 

This remark excited her admiration. Scotch-like she was deej) in 
the mysteries none can fathom. She stood with her arms a-kimbo 
and stared at Kelo. It was a stare of apj^roval. She exclaimed, — 



HARRY KANE. IQ^ 

" You're a theologian." 

Kelo rose to his feet. He laid down the wing of chicken that he 
could not eat for toughness. He angrily rej^lied, 

" Madam, I'm er civel un ; I doau' mek fuss ; but doan' call me no 
bad namz." 

"I dinna ca' ye names." 

« Yer sed I'se er blow gin. I ar'n't." Seeing her j^leased look he 
di'opped his anger. She offered her hand and said, " Come to 
me an' be friends." 

"I won't; I'se frade, marm, ye'U kiss me." 

" No ; I winna kiss ye." 

" Will ye' swar ye won't kiss me ? " 

" Yes, I swear." 

« Then I won't come." 

« Why not ? " 

" Cos anybody that'll swar, will lie, an' car'nt be trustid." 

" Oo, my ! Are you a man to be trusted ? " 

" I'd orter be ; I owe er heap whar' I'se got trusted," 

" Now, be sei-ious an' tell me about America. Are the Injin 
women's costumes pretty?" 

"In my tribe tha' ar', for natur' made um mostly." 

" I lose my countenance at such remarks." 

" Pity if yer ever recover it." 

"You've said enoo'. Now run out and smoke." 

" I doan' want ter go an' sraok, I want thet door shut." 

" Canna' shut it ; thet door like ye'self needs hangin'." 

They arrived at classic, historic, but smoke wrapped Edinburgh. 
The old city, once walled and confined to a narrow, high ridge, 
crowned on the south end by its romantic old castle, contained two 
long streets of tall houses, from six to ten stories, each floor a sej^a- 
rate tenement. The new town lies outside, and across a now 
drained valley, and is symmetrical. The c-ity is famed for it univer- 
sity, medical school and lawyers. Our cut shows it from Calder 
Hill, which soars above the new town. 

The royal prince, Albert Victor, came to Edinburgh to open an 



1QQ 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

exhibition. Scotch and north English nobiUty and gentry, and rich 
and distinguished persons, twenty thousands of them, assembled. 
They looked like a Yankee crowd, except those official old gentle- 
men who were comically attired in bright colored robes of summer 
silk, and gay silk caps, like big boys playing woman. Yet they were 
mayors and councilors, and heads of colleges, men of renown. 
Here, too, came the famous seventy-fourth Highlanders, gaily 
plaided and kilted, splendid fellows, magnificent in colors, but bare 
legged. It inspires a touch of romantic sentiment to see these gal- 
lant men. Each looks as if he had just started up in full-blown life, 
from one of Scott's novels. The Prince, too, was in the same 
showy bare-legged dress, and the assiduous attention he received 
from the ladies, indicates how much of idolizing by girls and women 
most young men have escaped, by not having been born English 
princes. 

High toward the sky, in a little room of Edinburgh's romantic old 
castle that is perched on a bold rock summit, James VI, afterward 
James I of Great Britain, became a boy baby : " A bornin' in high 
life, sure," said Kelo. " Yees, mon ; on a slee, in a bit baskit, she, 
the Queen, let him a doon eighty-four foot to t' nearist crag, to be 
whiskt awa'," said a roostabout, of the rescue of Mary's baby. 

In Scotland Harry saw many handsome but reserved lasses. 
Some Scotch women are of real beauty, and of rapturous form. Her 
skin is soft and has the delicate tint of a seashell, and she wears a 
pleading look of infinite tenderness. Her flaxen hair harmonizes 
with the color of her fair cheek, and her features are usually well 
formed. She is demure, and she carries herself with stately dignity, 
despite the sweet expression on her face. She moves along ''lowly, 
does not often romp, and does not seem to understand flirtation, 
though in the clear depths of her mild blue eyes one can read an in- 
finite capacity for devoted affection. If these bright eyes, fair forms, 
and clear complexions were aided by the winsome, genial manners of 
the French woman, who could resist them ? Would not the whole 
marriageable world of men rush off to merry Scotland to capture 
them, to the neglect of homemade and hard-to-win girls? Kelo 
wrote : " As Scot gals work afield on farms, de Kansas Farmer'z 



HARRY KANE. 107 

'Lions fellerz beter import der wifs & so mek biger farm profitz. 
'Merikin gal beter mary forin duke, 'Merikin boy mary forin duck, 
an' by dis jinral free trade ixchanj yunite ol nashunz az I pepel." 

At Holyrood, while Harry looked at the rooms of Queen Mary, 
Kelo found a man alone in the ancient Abbey ruin, who showed him 
the interesting things and told him choice stories of old-time Scot- 
land, its life and manners. Kelo was highly delighted. This was 
the best guide he had met. When they came to the old royal tomb, 
Kelo held in his hand the usual fee, sixpence, to give to this genial 
and poUte stranger. When the man told him so vividly of the old- 
time quarrels and murders of kings, Kelo's pleasure so increased that 
he decided to give the man a shilling. Just then he asked : 

"Who am dis toom jinin' ontu royalty?" 

"My family." 

«' Wha— a— t ! " 

" The tomb of my ancestors." 

"Whobeyeh?" 

" The Duke of Richmond." 

Kelo, in his genial surprise, shook the Duke's hand heartily, and 
i nvited him to Mud City, Nevada, where Kelo would entertain him 
" in er Ian' floin' wid whisky an' terbarker ! " 

Walter Scott had written some good poetry, when, in 1805, the 
" Lay of the Last Minstrel " made him the most popular author of 
the day. His « Marmion," 1808 ; " Lady of the Lake," 1810 ; " Don 
Roderick," 1811, and " Rokeby," 1813, gave the world all it cared 
for of his poetry. In 1814 his first novel, Waverly, appeared. It 
was a triumph. Other novels followed, and the world read and 
wondered who could be the author. He received great j)rofits. He 
built Abbotsford in old Scotch styles, a "picturesque romance in 
stone and lime," and then, in 1826, Constable & Co. failed and Scott 
was ruined. He closed his beautiful mansion, took lodgings, wrote 
prodigously, and realized in two years nearly four hundred thousand 
dollars. His work was too much ; he broke down. He died Sep- 
tember 22, 1832. 

Harry's visit to Abbotsford seemed like stepping back into old 
Scotch romance. It was a charming day and he roved at will 



108 13^000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

through the lovely spot. Here, in 1817, Irving visited Scott, and 
wrote : 

"He was tall and of a large and powerful frame. His dress (morn- 
ing) was simple and almost rustic. A green shooting coat, with a 
dog whistle at the button hole ; brown linen pantaloons, stout shoes 
that tied at the ankles, and a white hat that had evidently seen 
service. . . . He called out in a heai'ty tone, welcoming me. ... I 
soon felt myself quite at home, and my heart in aglow with the 
cordial welcome. . . . Scott seemed to derive more consequence 
in the neighborhood from being sheriff of the county than from be- 
ing poet. 

It is these melodies (Scotch songs) . . . that clothe Scottish 
landscape "with such tender associations, .... sweet and touching 
songs which live like echoes about the place. . " Scotch, Welch, 
Irish, descended from the ancient Britons, have national airs ; the 
English have none, their music is all made up of foreign scraps," said 
Scott to Irving. 

" I am glad to hear it," said Scott to a servant who praised the 
novels. " When I come home tired and take a pot of porter and one 
of your novels, I'm asleejD directly," added the man. 

Abbotsford, with its servants, retainers, guests, and baronial style, 
was a drain upon his purse, a tax upon his exertions, and a weight 
upon his mind that finally crushed him. 

At Whitby, England, as Harry wound up a cliff, he saw varied and 
picturesque loveliness of scenery. He saw the quaint houses with 
red roofs, the bathing machines, the donkeys ready saddled, funny 
open carriages, gay postilions on horseback, he climbed one hundred 
and ninety-eight steps to look upon the magical loveliness. He 
drove through miles of beautiful country, the fields dressed in lovely 
green in contrast with the dark hawthorn -hedges. From a hilltop 
the driver pointed and said, " Yon's the village." He saw no vil- 
lage, but on plunging down the hill found a strange one, the houses 
perched one above another so that the roof of one might easily be 
the doorstep of the one above it. The place swarmed with children ; 
all England swarms with them. 

At Runswick Bay he saw a village where the roofs of one row of 
housetops actually form the footpath of those above it. 

At Scarborough everybody seemed to have arrived ; it was gay 
with music and society and every thing seemed charming. 



HARRY KANE. 109 

He reported to the referees by cable every night, and here he got 
his first account: "Points made: Kane, 12; JMiss Arden, 17." "Is 
it possible," he exclaimed, " that the girl has begun by taking the 
lead ! I wonder where she is now ? " 

Soon after arriving in York, Kelo came in and reported that he 
had discovered the strangest building he ever saw. " It don't begin 
nowheres an' it keeps on till it don't git ter nowheres." 

" It is the city wall restored as in ancient days, it extends around 
the town. It is built upon a mound of earth," said the guide, J. 
Brown. " York is ancient ; before Julius Caesar it was a town ; in 
A. D. 79, Agricola made it a Roman station. It was an important 
Roman city Here the Emperor Hadrian once lived, and Severus 
and Constantius Chlorus died. Some believe than Constantino the 
Great was born here, but that is not certain. It was the Roman cn])- 
ital of Britain. The English Parliament met here in 1160, and oc- 
casionally for five hundred years. Not far away is Marston Moor 
where Charles I got his final defeat." 

Harry was astonished at the grandeur of the cathedral. Brown 
said, " Magnificent was the Anglo Saxon church of the eighth cen- 
tury. Twice burned and rebuilt, changed, enlarged, it is now this 
immense York Minster ; it is five hundred and twenty-four feet long, 
two hundred and fifty feet wide, being twenty-four feet longer than 
St. Paul's at London, and one hundred and forty-nine feet longer 
than Westminster Abbey. Its grand east window is seventy-five 
feet high and thirty-two broad. 

Of all men in England, Gladstone was the one that Harry 
most desired to see. At the York station, Harry saw an old man 
with a lordly face, and heard the words, " It's Gladstone ! " Harry 
presented the letter of introduction given him by Mr. Cleveland. 
The " Grand Old Man " received it graciously, shook hands cordially 
and asked Harry to occupy the same compartment in the car with 
him. Gladstone seemed to be one of those persons who must talk, 
whose nature it is to yield information. Limited space compels us 
to condense the conversation. Harry remarked, " Of all the nations, 
that with which America is most closely related, is Great Britain. 
Sprung from it ; the same race ; the same religion ; the same civili- 



110 IS, 000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

zation, she is mother of our industry, our language, literature, modes 
of thought, and our love of liberty. Till within a few generations, 
its history is our own history." 

Mr. Gladstone smiled, put his feet on the opposite seat and said, 
" Yes ; for many centuries our ancestry is common to both countries. 
The Irish who planted Christianity in the heart of Europe, the ro- 
mantic heroes of Scotland, Bruce and Wallace, the English Hamp- 
dens, Sidneys and Penns who have sent down to us a glow of patri- 
otism to inspire us, all the English of Shakspeare's time, are direct 
ancestors of Americans. You think of England as an old country. 
It is old, but many things are new. The recent changes are great. 
In ninety years our population has increased about two hundred per 
cent. This besides the great emigration to Australia, America and 
other countries. The last one hundred and fifty years have 
advanced England more than centuries before. To find old England 
you must look at castles, and ruins, and palaces, not at the business 
places of to-day. Great Britain is in full tide of rapid progress. 
Once the few ruled, now it is the many. The Suffrage Act of 1885 
made voters of many men not voters before. They first voted in 
1886. They will do better next time. If the Irish question were 
settled, we should still have many questions to adjust in England. 
Questions of land owning, of rents, of temperance, of education, of 
church and state, of tariff, of Sunday, and other matters engage 
attention." 

To these remarks Mr. Brown added : " I have been in America 
during several national elections. But nowhere did I ever see such 
a wide-awake excitement as I saw in our last English election. Here 
men of all classes must talk with you ; they could not help it ; they 
were full of politics ; Britain was stirred to its depths ; all men 
were excited." Mr. Gladstone responded, " It is so." 

Mr. Brown continued : *' Now, to gain favor with the peoj^le, the 
nobility allow visitors to go through their grand palaces and fine 
grounds, and enjoy sight of the halls, pictures, statuary, and old 
armor. You may be shown through Ducal Chatsworth, with its 
treasured charms, and see its forty acres of flower garden, its ro- 
mantic grottoes and fountains. 



HARRY KANE. HI 

Harry saw old Yorkshire, and lovely, level Lincolnshire, a farmers' 
paradise, whence came many of our Pilgrim ancestors. But in 
Derbyshire he saw less than forty farmhouses in forty miles ; much 
of the land is in grass. 

When Harry arrived at Charing Cross, a workman begged to 
carry his heavy luggage ; he said, " I will carry it any distance, no 
matter how far, if you will give me a penny for bread ; I am starv- 
ing ! " 

" But I may wish it carried several miles." 

" I don't mind that if you'll give me a penny's worth of bread, for 
it is true, I am starving." 

He carried the luggage a short distance and Harry gave him a 
shilling. Harry made inquiry and learned that the man was not a 
beggar ; he was a Avorkingman out of work. The tales of utter pov- 
erty, of suffering, that he soon heard from men willing to do the 
hardest labor, were pitiable. 

In 1852, the great orator, Disraeli, tried to sustain the Derby-Tory 
policy. In vain he made able speeches ; in vain he exerted all his 
mighty eloquence. As a debater he had but few equals, only one 
superior. When, one night, with magnificent display of his bril- 
liancy in debate, he firmly spoke for the back-number principles of 
Derby ; when he seemed almost to carry his measure by the most 
cogent and powerful argument, Gladstone, himself once a Tory, at 
two o'clock in the morning, sprang to his feet, himself electrified by 
the inspiration of eloquence, and assailed the policy and argument 
of that great Rupert of debate, in one of the most masterly efforts of 
which Gladstone alone was capable. Gladstone won, and his minis- 
try came in place of Derby's. Then began that tremendous parlia- 
rnentary rivalry, that magnificence of mighty competition, that rival 
leadership of the great British nation, heard in many a debate, ring- 
ino- around the earth in the fame of these two illustrious orators, dic- 
tating the government of many millions of British subjects in all 
quarters of the globe, as potent with the two hundred million British 
subjects abroad as with the English at home ; a rivalry felt in every 
country of the world ; and which was closed only when, in 1881, 
Disraeli sank into the silence of the grave. After 1860, one or the 



112 l^fif^O MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

Other of these men was the real authority, who, in turn, held far 
greater power than any king or emperor. 

In 1866 Derby and Disraeli again came into power by defeating 
the Russell and Gladstone ministry on a reform bill. The Derby 
party had bitterly opposed making voters of poorer men than already 
voted. They said the peoj^le did not wish to vote. The j^eople re- 
sponded by holding monster meetings, by long processions, by 
torchlight they tried to light their way to vote. They passed reso- 
lutions and made addresses. Their monster procession in London 
started for Hyde Park. The Derby ministry caused the park gates to 
be closed. The crowd came ; they threw down the gates and fence 
and took possession of the park. Disraeli and Derby were startled. 

In many English towns processions marched. Papers reported 
the long time it took them to pass a given point. The people were 
aroused; Disraeli became dizzy; Disraeli wished to come over and 
get some of that thunder ; he Avished to bring in a reform bill, al- 
though against all the professions of his life and of his party. 

The meetings were large; they became larger; England was 
moving ; reform was the rallying cry ; workmen demanded the right 
to vote ; they insisted. Disraeli saw that something must be done ; 
he did it ; he offered in the Commons a reform bill. Derby looked 
on ; but the House signified its dislike for Disraeli's sham bill. 
Rather than be driven from office by the reform idea, Disraeli would 
yield something. He gave Avay inch by inch. He pretended, he 
temporized. The liberal chiefs met. Gladstone and many others 
pressed the matter. Derby's ministry was going to pieces ; three 
members resigned. The Liberals thrust upon the Derby-Disraeli 
ministry a radical measure and passed it. 

Thus was "settled forever" the great question. It had alreadj- 
been four times " settled forever ; " it was twice afterwards settled. 
Finally Gladstone's Suffrage Act of 1885-86 has forever settled it 
by free suffrage. So having been six times " settled forever " it may 
revive to consider female suffrage. Politicians change their coats, 
but m this case the Toi-ies turned the Liberals out of their coats and 
wore them as the genuine suffrage reformers — they claim to have 
passed the R«form Act of 1866. 




WILMAM E. GLADSTONE. 




THE PARTING AT WESTMINSTER. 




ALBERT EDWARD, PRmCE OF WALES. 



HARRY KANE. 129 

Parliament is two Houses, Lords and Commons. The Lords are 
hereditary. The ministry can dissolve the Commons when they 
will. But a new election must follow. The sovereign cannot veto 
an act. The ministry makes treaties, regulates foreign relations, 
and is the general executive. The sovereign has but little to do 
with governing. A cabinet minister is also a member of Parliament, 
active party man, and jiublic speaker. Parliament usually sits more 
than half the time. The House must be elected as often as once in 
seven years. It usually lasts less time. 

Harry went to see the House of Lords. He found it a grand hall, 
■with leather seats without desks, rising on each side of the naiTOW 
floor. On one side sit the Lords who are members of the ministry, 
^nd their supporters ; on the opposite side sit tlie opposition. It has 
stained glass windows filled Avith portraits of kings and queens, and 
the ceiling is gilded and highly colored. It is a richly beautiful hall, 
one hundred feet long, and forty-five feet wide. 

Kelo sought wisdom from an Irish laborer in London, but the 
man took him for a spy and was not quite clear in his answers. 

" Do you realize the beauties of yer Irelan' ? " 

" Indade an' I do that same ; I married one ov thim same." 

" I means Irelan' is very fair." 

" Its mony a fair, sor ; the hos' fair, the town fair, an' fare on the 
rail." 

" Do yoo hav' ta lay in much coal for winters thar?" 

"We niver slape in coal ; its bids we slape in, sure." 

" Is dis a healthy place ? " 

" Indade it is, but lots ov the paplc are sick." 

" W 'y did yoo leave old Ireland ? " 

" Cos' 1 niver could take it wid me." 

" But yoo were born thar ? " 

" Yis, sor, a mon can't be too pertikler where he does his bornin.' 

"Don't you think I could marry a' Irish gal?" 

" Maybe, some on 'em b'long to the s'iety to take care ov idyots." 

'• Yoo seem to have contracted bad habits." 

" Its not contractin', an' its expandin' 'em I am, sor." 
9 



130 13.000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" Yoor walk is unsteady, you stagger." 

*' The stoutest ship 'II stagger wid too many sheets in the wind.' 

" There are holes in yoor garments." 

" Perforated for summer wear, y'er honor." 

" How did yoo get away from Ireland '? " 

" Its meself 'scapt on a pint ov law, an' I did." 

« What " pint '? " 

" Guv the jDlece cop a pint ov w'isky to let me run." 

" Let's disgress." And they disgressed. 

Harry wished to see that which is greater than a king, and has 
many times dictated to England's kings, the House of Commons. It 
meets at four o'clock p.m., and sits far into the night. He sent in 
his card to a member to whom he had sent a letter of introduction. 
That card was a trumj), it got him a seat. The Parliament Buildings 
are immense, but this hall is only forty-five by seventy-five feet, and 
has not seats enough to hold its six hundred and sixty-eight members, 
but all are never present. The long seats of leather, without desks, 
range up steep inclines on opposite sides of the narrow floor through 
the entire center. On one side is the ministry and their supporters, 
on the other side are "the Opposition." Near one end, and in front 
of the reporter's gallery, is the high chair of the Speaker. Two low 
tables are in the floor in front of the Speaker, where sit the commit- 
tee chairman and two wigged clerks. The room is grand and beauti- 
ful. Its galleries, all around, are narrow. Ladies are admitted only 
to a place high above the Speaker, and concealed by a screen, so as 
not to be visible from the floor. Members sit with their silk hats on. 

An American, who, some years ago saw the great contest of 1 886, 
said : At my first visit I looked at once for Gladstone. What was 
this ' foremost man of all the world ' doing. I had w ondered how he 
puts in his spare moments. There he was on the low front seat, 
where smallest boys sit in school, so nearly sliding off his seat that 
he sat on his spine ; his big head, bald at the top, was resting on the 
low back of the seat ; his sliding had drawn his trousers above his 
ankles, and, with the weight of an empire on his mind, the illustrious 
statesman, of whom the w^hole world was talking, lay at ease, with 



IIARUY KANE. 131 

the greatest coiiiplaisaiu;y in his hirge eyes and very bland face. He 
looked as satisfied as the small boy whose parent concedes him too 
sick to go to school and so lets him stay out and slide down hill. 

Gladstone is rotund, with immense, radiant, and white face, high, 
arched brows, small hands, short limbs, and looks like a man who 
lives on good things, A bright, playful sj^arkle is in his big eyes. I 
heard him when opi^osition had aroused that peerless orator; when, 
inspired by the grandeur of his great theme, the defense of human 
rights in Ireland, he displayed magnificence of eloquence, weighty and 
artistic, for he is indeed the great artist of refined oratory. Elegant 
courtliness was expressed in face and tone and voice and gesture. 
His usual style is the perfection of the conversational. It would be 
out of place in the vast exj^anse of our American hall of Congress. 
You are quickly impressed that he is a remarkable man. At that 
time he was Premier, first of orators, first of statesmen ; the leading 
figure of all the world; a giant in intellect; a colossus in power. No 
other man on earth held such power. Germany has less than fifty 
million people; Hussia little above one hundred million ; but Glad- 
stone ruled the Queen, he controlled Parliament, he held the actual 
sovereign power of Great Britain's twenty-nine million shown by 
census of 1891, and Ireland's, Canada's, Australia's millions, and those 
of thirty-five more colonies, and India's countless hordes. 

Debates in the Commons are without roughn ess, no boisterous 
tones, no high swinging arms, but much courtesy. Extreme opinions 
are expressed with bland tones ; sarcasms with playful polish, differ- 
ences with adroit politeness ; the brilliant influence of the great 
masters of British eloquence, magnetic and electric, moulds and rules 
those less gifted, and sheds the halo of its splendor over the whole 
debate. The style is easy, the rhetoric carefully polished. 

When Gladstone rose the whole house was instantly hushed to 
silence. He was incomparable in courtesy, bland, lofty courtesy, 
dignity, genial humor, clear, incisive, elegant in manner, with a voice 
of wonderful musical quality, equal in Bielody and ryhthm, marvelous 
and mellow in tone : his big eyes flashed as bright as the great ruby 
in Queen Victoria's crown, their vivacity expressed the varying feel- 
ings of his sentences. With plnyful smile, and gracious lofty scorn 



132 i5/yw MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

he seemed to sport his sarcasms like a paj^a too good natured to 
spank tlie Oj)position, liis cadences were of that papa jocosely tellir.g 
them not to do so again. It was melody as musical in cadence as in 
tones. This quality is indescribable. He speaks slowly. For two 
hours lie had been baited by the Opposition. The House was full of 
anger. The countr}'- was in a blaze. Tories were raging against 
him. Yet, singularly enough, there Avas a magnetic spirit in it that 
changed the whole atmosphere of the House. Gladstone had spoken. 
NoAV that Disraeli is gone there is no one who could adequately 
reply. Nature is liberal to Gladstone, it gave him a ])Owerful frame, 
though not lai-ge ; a voice of almost peerless quality, a strong, gra- 
cious face, pleasing manners ; and culture during all his manhood in 
the society of the ablest men and orators have imjDioved all these. 
Good nature is impressed in his face ; he is cordial in style ; he looks 
genial, his geniality is dignified Avithout stiffness. His polished po- 
liteness, his Avondrous affability Avhen speaking, shows in his face, 
sparkles in his eyes, expresses itself in his motion, electrifies with the 
telling cadences of the melody of that matchless voice. He is the 
"Grand Old Man." 

Fleet street, celebrated in verse by Pope, Gray, Swift and Ben 
Jonson, its neAvsijaper offices noted by Addison, Macaulay, 
Steele, Isaac Walton, Cowley, Drayton, Stafford, CoAvper, Baxter, 
Wesley, Whitefield, Dryden, Wren and Tenn^^son, reminded Harry 
of the Fleet Prison, noA\'' gone, where delator clergymen once solem- 
nized secret runaAvay marriages, and kept ruimers on the streets to 
invite persons to come and be married. Its old registers shoAv tAvo 
hundred and seventeen marriages there in a single day ! 

On the roof of St. Paul's, the grandest Protestant cathedral in the 
world, Harry saw a statiie of St. Peter and his famous croAving cock. 
Peter seems likely never to hear the last of that rooster story. 
Standing inside the main doorAvay, Harry could just hear the slight 
murmur of the voice of the man who Avas pj-eaching, so A-^ast is the 
place. Here is some statuary, much of it in bad taste. Some Bri- 
tish military and naval heroes, instead of being shown in their 
proper uniform, as history requires, are almost naked like heathen. 
Picton, killed at Waterloo, is represented as a ridiculous Roman 



HA nn Y KA NE. , -[ 33 

warrior. Several others are as bad history and bad taste as some of 
the statuary at Washington. At St. Sepulchre church, Harry saw 
the old grave of Pocahontas' John Smith, marked " Here lies one 
conquered: that hath conquered Kings." In crossing Gray's Inn 
Gardens, Harry found it like country seclusion, though in the heart 
of London. 

Harry wished to see how the ^^oor live. One of those noble men 
of whom England has many, who devote their time to relief of mis- 
ery, offered to show him poverty. In St. Giles he saw thousands of 
people, but no handsome 2)ersons. Ages of vice and bad living have 
left their mark in the faces. At the Academy exhibition of paint- 
ings he had marveled at the beauty of the better class, the lovely 
women and noble men ; but here in St. Giles where poverty is hered- 
itary, was contrast to that fine picture. Here j)olice were alert. 
The policemen of London are large men. A disturbance began in a 
corner groggery. Two policemen came on a run. These powei'ful 
fellows flung out several rowdies. Each was instantly caught up by 
two more policemen who came on the run and away they ran with 
the scamp. It Avas all over in a moment, no time had been allowed 
for a crowd to collect. Guided by a kind clergyman, Harry went to 
east London. There, in courts where the sun rarely looks in, he 
climbed rickety stairs, and saw veiy small rooms, stifling, filthy, mal- 
odorous, each room the home of many jjersons. Furniture hardly 
exists, excei)t a few old boxes ; beds are of rags, old straw, shavings 
or bare floor. Trades are carried on in this squalor. 

" AVhy are your children almost naked ? " he asked of a woman. 

" Cos I hedter pawn the'r poor close for bread ; I got only a shil- 
ling, but it bought six pounds of damaged bread." 

" What do you earn a day?" he asked of an old tailor. 

"Me an' ray womnn works frum six a* mornin' to ten a' night, an' 
we gitz Ls, 5d (about thirty-five cents), an' it du jes keep us alive." 

In one room were eight destitute children. " Where is your 
mother ? " 

" She's gone off in her coflin," replied the oldest, a gii'l ol four- 
teen. 

"Here is an attic," said the guide. A bi-oken cliair, a saucepan and 



134 ISfiOO MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

a few rags. It is daik and close. Here is no window. It is really 
a closet. On a dirty sack sits a baby girl of four years, her little 
shoulders and limbs show through her scanty rags ; and she tends 
for half a day at a stretch, a wee, crawling infant, while the mother 
is away trying to get bread and beer. Here, in another place, is a 
twelve year old girl making match boxes. 

"• Who looks after you ? "' 

" I duz, an' I looks arter my little sisters as well as I can." 

'* Where are your parents } " 

" Mamma is in a mad-house. Papa is out o' work." 

After an hour more of numerous sights, of which these are 
samples, Harry exclaimed, "O, what misery! What apalling dis- 
tress ! " 

" But, sir, you liave not seen the worst. These filthy dens are be- 
yond the means of many ! " 

" What can be worse?" 

" Hundreds cannot get the 2d to pay for a sleep in the poor lodg- 
ings where sixty or eighty persons swelter in one miserable room, 
both sexes together, so they huddle on stairs and in outside nooks." 

" What a field for immorality ! " 

" The honest outnumber the dishonest. But they cannot avoid 
being crowded among the bad. The misery and sin here catised 
by drink is beyond description. In Euston Road district is a drink- 
ing place for every hundred inhabitants." 

" How much can you earn ? " asked Harry of a trousers maker. 

" A shilling in a day of seventeen hours' work," was the reply. 

" What do you live on ? " 

" Crusts and tea. For making men's shirts, women get ten pence 
a dozen." (TAventy cents.) 

" This is enough for to-day ; I can stand no more," said Harry. 

" It is as bad as I have seen in lower New York," said the mis- 
8ionar3^ 

« Tell me of them." 

" I have seen much misery here. Kate, a girl of fourteen years, 
was belle of Blank street. She was large and handsome, a sort of 
queen. One night she was to shine, to eclipse herself. She led the 




QUEEN VICTOHIA, 



136 ISfiOO MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

dance, had the most partners, drank the most gin. She had always 
drank it. Partner after partner treated her, and praised her bright 
eyes and beauty, and her eyes grew brighter and tlie wild night went 
on. As Kate went home, fire burned in her veins. Visions of awful 
horror came, vile creeping things with forked tongues seemed crawl- 
ing on her, horrible shapes gathered, frightful agony toi'e her soul 
from her body. The coroner came : the verdict was ' died of deliri- 
um tremens.' " 

" But are not the liquor sellers licensed V " 

" Yes ; licensed to make paupers, to destroy the peace of families, 
to cause extreme suffering and want to the helpless, to insure abuse 
to tender women and children. Yes ; licensed to ruin children, to 
lower morals, to engender idleness, to debauch men, to debase wo- 
men, to make quarrels, to starve infants, to damage health, to 
squander jiroperty, to take away comfort, to make all the misery you 
have just seen." 

"Yes, sir; licensed to blast all mj' hoj^es, my happiness, to de- 
grade, to ruin me, who was once the equal of any man in England," 
put in a ragged semblance of a man Avho overheard them. 

At Hyde Park, London, Harrj^ saw the finest horses, the best car- 
riages, the richest crested and coroneted turnouts of the most mag- 
nificent people of Europe. That same night, in London alone, i3rob- 
ably one hundred thousand persons were supperless. England needs, 
and many are working, to obtain restriction of sale of drink. 

"Did you ever know any such things in our country?" asked 
Harry of an American to whom he told what he had just seen. 

'Yes. In Ford, Ohio, John Pulit's two industrious daughters 
were ambitious to own a house. They worked in a mill and saved 
eight hundred dollars from their little earnings. Then they sent 
their father to draw the hoard and buy the house. Late that night 
the two poor girls found him in a licensed bar-room helplessly drunk, 
and the money gone, lost or stolen, he could not tell which." 

Great Britain has the most extensive trade and commerce in the 
world, big and fast ships, the most vessels, mines of coal and iron, 
and deep harbors near each other ; enterprise is awake, they can 
make anything, and -will go any distance for a market. England 



IIABRY KANE. IQJ 

Without Wales, is the densest populated bind of Europe ; only Bel- 
gium can compare with it for densit}-. It is the most powerful. 
Russia comes next in power, and rules one-sixth of the land of the 
world, but only about one-third as many people. With India and 
thirty-six otlier colonies, Great Britain is the greatest empire the 
world ever saw ; far greater than ancient Greece, Rome or Carthage. 
It is seven times greater than Napoleon's mighty empire when at its 
hight. It has the most powerful navy. One shot from one of the 
four steel guns on her steel ship. Invincible, weighs more than a full 
round of shot for every caimon that Wellington had at Waterloo. 
One sees in England the largest men, the most stately ladies, the 
handsomest soldiers, the richest nobility, the greatest manufacturing, 
and the worst poverty ; they are a noble people, but they have des- 
titution, and misery in plenty. 

On a visit to VVindsor, a royal residence, Hany found the old 
castles in three groups, the sovereign's apartments, the Round Tow- 
er, made by Edward III, to hold the famous Round Table ; and St. 
George's Chapel and the cloisters and military knights' houses. 
From the top of the Round Tower, he had a fine view of many his- 
torical spots. "Yonder is Eton," said the guide, "the famous 
school ; thereaway is Runnymede where the Barons received the 
Great Charter of liberty, from King John, in 1215. Look three 
miles through this magnificent arcade of big trees; it is a grand, 
overarched drive. The mansion you see to the left is Frog- 
more, where Queen Victoria and her husband passed many happy 
days. There, too, you see the magnificent mausoleum erected by 
the Queen to her husband. Prince Albert." 

"Who am de female young lady a-walkin' up de hill?" asked 
Kelo. 

" It is a j)rincess, one of the Queen's granddaughters." 

" She looks jis' like other gals, ef I hadn't er bin tole, I'se liable 
t' ha' ma'rid her, nebber mistrustin' she's er princess." 

The truly royal and sumptuous Albert Chapel, and the St. George 
Chapel, with the elegant and rich interior adornments, are a delight 
to the eye that loves the beautful. The sight of the fine old Eng- 
lish park, with hundreds of tame deer, roused Kelo. He wished he 



138 iSfiOO MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

had a park like it. " Earn money and buy one," said Harry to ban- 
ter him, " tliirty years ago Gould had but one hat to liis head. Since 
then, by attention to business he has realized five millions." 

" Wat can Gould want wi'd live million hats ! " was Kelo's reply. 

In returning to London, they took a passing view of the rich art 
collection at Hampton Court, in what Kelo called the palace of 
"Linsy Woolsy " (Cardinal Woolsey), and then on by Sydenham, 
and saw the vast Crystal Palace, built in 1854 of iron and glass, with 
its liall one thousand, six hundred and eight feet long, where white 
statues peep out from among plants so fine that they must excite the 
admii'ation of every plant-loving woman. The many courts and 
halls afford a unique view of the art and culture of many nations 
and ages. The sight of the dej^artment of antediluvian animals again 
aroused Kelo. He said he had hunted many wild horses in America, 
and he hoped, " If neder def nor fatle axdent meet me sooner, I'se 
hopin' 'fore I dies, tu hunt gj^askutoses, an' mammoths, an' todder 
ant luvin anymilz." 

Harry found the English were generous. Of all the grand apart- 
ments in the world, devoted to literature, no other is equal to the 
reading-room of the British IMuseum. It is a dome standing upon 
the ground. It is one huryilred and thirty-nine feet across, larger 
than St. Peter's dome at Rome. More than one million three hun- 
dred thousand bound books are in its enormous library. The wealth 
of curiosities of ancient Egyjjt, Ninevah, Greece, Rome, and of the 
modern world are there. To this immensely expensive collection, all 
paid for by the British, you are admitted for a small fee. If you go 
there to do literary or scientific work, you will be furnished ad- 
mittance free of cost, with arm-chair, desk and attendance. This 
whole book is too small for description of the Museum. It is a vast 
treasure-house. Years may be spent in study of its contents. 

At South Kensington Museum Harry found an enormous collection 
of specimen goods, many of them too costly for a private j^erson to 
own, but all bought with British coin, and you are admitted to see 
or to study the articles of the wonderful exhibition, for your own 
benefit. This is done to help along arts and invention, to exhibit 
models on which you may improve and so make your fortune. It is 




LONDON BOYS. 



140 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

a grand place to delight the hearts of investigators of the useful and 
of the l>e:iuliful arts. The space of another volume many times the 
size of this one, would be too small to do it justice. Britain, at a 
cost of about two million dollars, has recenlly erected at South Ken- 
sington, a beautiful and large Natural History building, with an ex- 
tensive collection in natural history and geology. To go through it 
and see its wonders was, to Harry, like Avalking in an imaginary 
castle of the beautiful, the halls of a strange and charming world. 
When the British are generous, they have a grand way of doing it. 
These three institutions may well make an American pi-oud that he 
is of the same race. 

At Madame Tussaud's Kelo spoke to a Avax figure, believing it to 
be a live person ; because it did not answer he Avas offended, and 
made complaint to an old gentle man seated there turning his head 
looking at the various figures. The old gentleman Avas the figure of 
William Cobbet. Because he got no ansAver Kelo remarked to a 
policeman that it was an uncivil set. When the policeman jjroved 
to be a figure, Kelo was pacified only by being taken to the Chamber 
of Horrors and shown Napoleon and many murderers. He climbed 
into Napoleon's carriage, taken at Waterloo, and he Ave|)t OA^er the 
body of Alexander II, of Avhose murder he had just for the first time 
heard. He asked why the Nihilist did not take his scalp. 

At the " Zoo " Kelo was in his glory ; he admitted that there were 
more animals than he e\ev saAv, except in Nevada, the only form of 
admission he ever made abroad. Kelo said he had tamed many a 
panther in Nevada, he would try it on a lion. Kelo Avent up to the 
3age, he stared as hard at the lion as tlie average young man stares 
at a pretty girl. Leo quickly put out his paAv. Though he could 
not write, be did make his mark ; he gave Kelo's big nose a bright 
red mark down its center, and Avith such force that Kelo went over 
backward to the fioor. He said he got doAvn there to look up at the 
ceiling more easily. 

The Tower of London is really several towers, all inclosed by a 
deep moat and exterior Avail. Here many illustrious persons have 
been imprisoned. It is garrisoned by old soldiers in quaint old 
attire. Harry Avent thi-ough a gloomy road, like a deep trench, with 



jiAunr KAAE 141 

liigh stone walls on either side, then up a gloomy staircase of stone, 
lit approach to a prison, and suddenly entered a hroad room, with 
deep window ledges, and was startled. His eyes Avere dazzled, his 
senses excited, his wonder amazed. There, in a glass case in the 
center of the room, broke suddenly on his eyes, the Regalia of Eng- 
land! Millions on millions of dollars worth of gold and glittering 
jewels ! There was Queen Victoria's crown, blazing with gold and 
the big Black Prince ruby, and twenty four hundred diamonds I 
There, too, were gold and jewels, and crowns and scepters and crosses 
and orders of knighthood of marvelous brilliancy. It astounded 
Harry. Even Kelo admitted that only the mines of Dog Hill, Ne- 
vada, could show anything equal to this in richness. 

Westminster Abbey. 

Harry was walking in Westminster Abbey, the grand mausoleum 
of British great ones. It is indeed a place in which to wander and 
reflect. Here many generations have reared grand monuments to 
the great departed. 

He sees a figure ; she turns a charming, girlish face toward him ; 
the small hat perched so coquettishly on her brow shades a pair of 
eyes that sparkle with good humor ; the lips are half parted in a 
smile of innocent fun at some droll remark made by Teteto ; the del- 
icate nostrils appear to breathe the air with relish, there is a glow 
of health and good spirits about her, she seems in the midst of 
pleasant thoughts. 

*' Annie ! " he exclaimed. 

She put out both hands to him gracefully and with an air of easy 
cordiality. The girls who do that are apt to warm a suitor's heart ; 
they are likely to be lovable. He caught her in his arms. It was in 
the Poet's Corner. It was late in the day, acd no other persons were 
near. Standing in that spot, with many poets to witness Harry 
said, "Annie, I love you." 

The bright eyes dropped to the gilded letters on Dicken's grave. 
Annie did not reply. She released herself from his embrace, and 
a slight shudder ran from the tips of her slender fingers to the moss 
rosebud in her i^retty hat, and her little hands fl.uttered as they has- 



142 1^^000 MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

tened on her gloves. She seemed troubled with his woi'ds. He re- 
peated, " I love you." 

She withdrew her hand. The pleasant eyes turned on his face and 
she said, " Harry, this is wrong. You should not speak so to me. 
You know the conditions made with Robin Smith. We must strictly 
observe them."" 

" How can you sjjeak so coolly. Let us decide our own fortune at 
once by getting a license and being married here in London. When 
Mr. Smith finds that is done he will forgive us." 

The bright eyes sparkled with disjjleasure and she said, " Harry, 
that would be neither fair nor honorable. I will never be won un- 
faii"ly. I must leave you now. I can hear no more." 

" Where do you stay? May I call on you this evening?" 

"No." 

She turned away by the cloisters. He would have followed, but 
she Avaved him back. In a few moments he saw her in a carriage 
driving away, lie was so offended that he forgot where he was, and 
lighted a match on the tomb of old King Sebert of A. D. 61G, and 
set his cigar going, to the great scandal of a verger Avho turned him 
out of the building. The next day it took him hours to find out 
Annie's hotel. He offered his card to be carried to her. But the 
servant said she was gone ; that she had left for the continent ten 
hours ago. 

" For what point ? " 

" Brussels." 

In half an hour Ilany was on a train in pursuit of her. 



VI 

ON THE CONTINENT.' 

Belgium has been in turn ruled by Spain, Austria," France and 
Holland. It formed part of Napoleon's empire. At his overthrow 
in 1815, England insisted that a nation should be formed of Belgium 
and Holland. The name, " The Netherlands," was given it, and is 







liOYAL CASTLE, WINDSOB 



]^44 l^^'^OO MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

still the legal name of Holland. Belgium separated from Holland in 
1830. It is a kingdom Avith a Congress, It is the most densely 
peopled country of Europe, except England. Harry was surprised 
to find Brussels so fine a city, with many grand streets and elegant 
places. In the splendid public park, where he saw trees that in size 
astonished him, he met a gentleman walking, of whom he inquired, 
"What are the fine siglits of Brussels?" 

The man answered, courteously, " Here are many fine things. You 
see before you the Legislative Palace ; it is a fine structure. Down 
the first street to the left is the Cathedral; beyond it is the Hotel de 
Ville. Try them first. Then you will find the art galleries and the 
lace factories interesting." Harry thanked the gentleman, but as he 
did not offer him a fee, Kelo took that on himself and handed out a 
half franc. The stranger motioned it away and walked on. " Tharz 
de mos' 'mark'ble man I'ze zeen in Urip ; de fust t' refuse er tip ; 
wish I'd axt 'im ter drink." 

"It is the King, Leopold," said a looker on. 

" Golly! We'z bet'r be kinder keerfle how we niakez street 'qua'nt- 
ances ! Ma'be git tuk up fur a' angel unawasht." 

Harry looked over the ai't treasures in the Cathedral. He hoped to 
find Annie there. Kelo was much delighted with the many animals 
carved on the splendid pulpit. Next they went through the Museum. 
At sight of the monster whale skeleton, with a mouth more than 
eighteen feet long, Kelo was astonished into full belief in the story 
that a whale swallowed Jonah, which he had doubted. 

Brussels is more than one thousand years old. A " Paris in min- 
iature, " it is a delightful j^lace of residence. The higher class speak 
French, the lower, Flemish, traders speak both. It has many tine 
works of art and imjjortant manufactures. 

" You should see our lace factory," said a man. " Just the j^lace 
to look for Annie, women do so admire fine laces," thought Harry. 

The room where many women were making laces had no windows, 
a I'egular but dim light is admitted from the ceiling. The extreme 
fineness has from eighty to one hundred and twenty threads in a 
single, spider-web pattern. The long time required to make a small 
piece surprised him. One worker, in a year of labor, was expected 



146 13,000 MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

to make six yards, about eight inches wide. Ilis offer of its weight 
in gold coin for a little collar, made the attendant smile. He bought 
it, but he gave five times its weight in gold. 

A band struck up in the Park ; he listened, admired, enjoyed, then 
spoke of his keen delight. " That's a remarkably fine band ! I have 
rarely heard its equal." 

"It is the Royal Band ; it was once at Gilmpre's Jubilee in Bos- 
ton," said a guide. 

As he did not find Ai^nie at Brussels, he guessed that she had 
gone on twenty-eight miles to Antwerp, to see Rubens' world-re- 
nowned painting, The Descent from the Cross. " Girls do so like to 
see fine i^ictures; that is the place to- look for her," he mused. 

Hastening on by rail, past Mechlin's lofty spire of design so ele- 
gant and airy that it has been aptly compared to Mechlin's own fine 
lace. Harry came to the great seaport of Belgium, Antwerp. It was 
decreed by Napoleon the first seaport of the French Empire. In the 
sixteenth century it was probably the most prosperous and wealthy 
city of Europe, with a great fair and an immense trade But Spanish 
rule depressed it. It is a fortress of the first class. The ancient 
ramparts are leveled and grand park gardens and shaded streets and 
elegant walks occupy their site, where of an evening you may see a 
happy crowd of all ages listening to the fine music of a band, as they 
stroll and gossip. These are elegant places. To walk in the even- 
ing in the Park and see the pretty bowers, fine trees, charming walks 
and the cozy spots, and lovei's flitting among them, and making love 
to the sound of sweet music, is very pleasant. Antwerp contains 
many masterpieces of painting. Rubens' Descent from the Cross is 
very famous. Its women are not large and fat like most of Rubens' 
female figures, and the finish is very masterly. 

" If you have listened, in Antwerp, to the chime of bells that fill the 
whole atmosphere with music ; if you have stood there and heard its 
notes as they sounded out through the frosty air of the morning, 
hoAv imperfect would seem to you a chime of eight bells, as compared 
with the swarm of bells of which that chime is composed ! " wrote 
H. W. Beecher. 

Still no Annie here. A guide assured him that she had gone to 
Rotterdam, sixty-three miles, that he had bought tickets for her at 



SIGHTSEEING IN BOTTERDAM. I47 

five francs each. Harry reached Rotterdam, in pursuit, in a hundred 
and fifty minutes. It was forenoon, and all along the streets he saw 
women on their hands and knees washing the sidewalks, and others 
on ladders, washing the fronts of the houses, in that city of canals, 
where is the least jDossible dust. " Washing and scrubbing is the 
Dutch mania," said a man who presented himself as the " Poi'tier." 
Harry was puzzled by this man ; he was not the landlord ; he did 
not seem to be a porter or a servant. But he offered to do every- 
thing; he took charge of the luggage, took Harry to a hotel, told 
him all about the city, advised him what to do and what not to do, 
and seemed to be a general helper of travelers, and such is what the 
Portier is in Holland and Germany. He knows everything and does 
many things for you, and he exjjects a fair fee, and he pays the hotel 
for his place. He had seen nothing of Annie ; so she had not 
stopped at Rotterdam. While Harry waited for a train, the Portier 
showed him Boyman's picture gallery, the grand church, a noble 
bridge and some fine parks. But most interesting to see was an 
ocean steamer, just from New York, sailing through the streets of 
water ! 

As he was passing Delft, Harry asked Kelo if he could re- 
member Delft in history. " Yaas ; it am der place whar sailt de 
Sunflower wid der pilgrim motherz in 1620 to Plymuff." Schiedam, 
with its two hundred and twenty gin distilleries, was well known to 
Kelo ; he Avished to stay there forever. 

Fifteen miles further took him to the Hague (Haag) where Harry 
rode for hours amid its broad, handsome streets, sjjacious imposing 
squares, and lofty houses, and grand palaces, and in the grand park 
of large, old trees that connects it with the sea, three miles away. 
He looked at the fine old avenues, and saw the Swan's Pond, where 
the water is artificially kept in motion ; then at the good picture gal- 
leries of this capital of the Netherlands. But no trace here of 
Annie. Kelo remarked, " I're afeart dat when yer wed'in' wid Anny 
kumz, she'll be abel t' prof er alibi." 

" What do you mean ? " 

" Dat she won't be dar." 

Haarlem has great attractions for girls. They love flowers. He 



148 25,0(96? MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

would try Haarlem. And a glorious sight it was. On the site of its 
old ramparts are now public promenades. Private and j)ublic gar- 
dens environ the good town. lie saw the gorgeous display of whole 
fields of hyacinths, tulips, crocuses, anemones and lilies, groxxped in 
every variety of colors, and diffusing their delicious j)erfumes. The 
Dutch heai't warms toward flowers. But where was Annie? 

Harry crossed what was once the Haarlem sea, now drained and a 
very gaixlen of fertile farms. He ex^^ected to see little of interest 
at Amsterdam ; but he found it one of the finest of cities. Its many 
street canals running in a circle from the docks around to the docks 
again, and filled with queer Dutch vessels, in long lines, drawn by 
steam tugs right by the j^eoples' doors, while on each side of the 
canal is a paved driveway for teams, and a row of trees. It is a rare 
and curious spectacle. He started to walk, and keeping directly 
forward, came to the spot of his start. He had gone around the 
circle made by the street. The cross streets have nearly three hun- 
dred draw-bridges over these canals. The houses stand uj^on piles, 
great tree trunks driven into the ground down out of sight. Some 
streets are quaint, strange, spectacular, with their queer, fantastic 
finish. Their gables arc all toward the street, and each house has 
settled differently from the rest so as to be out of plumb, so while 
the ground line is straight, every house pitches at a different degree 
as if to plunge down into the street. From some streets cari'iages 
are excluded ; they are promenades of livelj^, social aspect. All 
seems cheery, all comfortable ; much is elegant. Amsterdam has 
many attractions. It is a spot for those who delight to unite com- 
fort and beauty. The stranger needs several days at this pretty city. 
Its canals make of it ninety islands. Harry entered the Palace, 
He was transi^orted with delight. He was in a marble paradise. 
The magnificent Reception-Koom, very large and one hundred feet 
high, is gorgeous with glistening, jiolished marbled of most elegant 
and artistic finish, splendid in adornment, glorious in rare beauty, 
floors, walls, pillars, ceilings, a wonder of bewildering splendor. 
All the apartments are richly adorned with sculptures in white 
marble. This palace stands on thirteen thousand six hundred 
and fifty-nine piles, a whole forest of trees having been used. Its 



KELO REPENTANT. 149 

tower ends in a gilded ship. The grand museum, in a park, contains 
many masterpieces of painting, inchiding Rembrandt's Night 
Watch. 

Kelo went to walk in a magnificent park. He soon found himself 
in dense woods with pretty paths. He saw many animals. He was 
wishing he had a gun, when in the midst of a thick jungle of tall 
bushes he saw away above him a pair of large mild eyes looking 
down ujion him ! Startled, surprised, knowing that those slender 
bushes could not hold up any animal, he thought he saw an angel. 
He was sorry that he had ever said bad words. He repented that 
he was in great danger. What could an angel want of him ! He 
stood riveted to the sj)Ot. He was afraid to run lest the angel should 
pursue and catch him. It was a trying moment. He dared not 
speak. He waited to hear what the angel might say. The angel 
said " OOOF ! " as it shook its head. Tlien he saw it was \\u^ head 
of a giraffe. He was in the midst of the line natural history gar- 
dens, where is a great collection. Its show of brilliant tropical birds, 
flying, fluttering, flopping and screaming, is the finest bird collection 
that Harry saw in Euroi^e. 

The Dutch are fond of beauty ; they cultivate it with great care. 
Is this the reason why the Amsterdam women, servant girls and 
all, are so pretty? Some Dutch gardens, pictures, lawns, trees 
and parks are wonderful. Part of the country is below the level 
of the sea and the water is kept out by dykes. Some of the ca- 
nals that cross the country are on embankments high above the 
fields. If one should break it would inundate the region. 

Before A. D. 1100, Amsterdam has no history. Then the sea 
turned lake Flevno into the Zuyder Zee. Portuguese Jews came 
here three hundred years ago, and then French Huguenots, and soon 
British Covenanters and Puritans, all seeking asylum from persecu- 
tions, and then came defeated patriots from Antwerp. The fish- 
eries, the great East and West India and American and general 
commerce, skillful farming, dairying and herding, making fine linen, 
storing grain against scarcity and high price, banking, and lending 
money and giving trade credits to the rest of the business world, 
made Amsterdam, in the seventeenth century, an image of old-time 



150 13,000 MTLEH OF STGTIT-SEEING. 

Venice. The world went there to borrow. It had the best ocean 
transport trade of the Avorld. The refined Dutch soul is expressed 
in poetry and painting. Holland is itself a pastoral, commercial and 
industrial poem. It has produced many gi-eat painters. So has 
Belgium. In 1794 was a revolution, a French army came. Holland 
soon became "The Batavian Bcpublic." In May, 1806, Napoleon 
made it a kingdom with his brother, Louis, as its king. In 1810, 
he quarreled with Louis in order to ^jrevcnt trade with Americans, 
and to rob "American " merchants of 40,000,000 francs. Louis ab- 
dicated and fled from Napoleon's power, and Napoleon annexed 
Holland to his empire. Kelo Avrote home, " amsterdam haz harn- 
zum' wimin & qeer housez, ol' standin' Avid ther' gabble enz tordz 
the streat." 

Harry decided to go up the IMiine. The lower Rhine district has 
great industries. At Essen he saw an army of workmen making 
cannon of all sizes, from very small to immense monsters. The 
works cover man}^ acres. Krupp discovered the art of casting steel 
in big masses. Coal and iron are mined near by. It is cheaper to 
make goods at the mines, than pay freight on material. Then on to 
Crefeld, which makes millions of value of silk goods every year, and 
to Dusseldorf, -with its regular streets, extensive pleasure grounds, 
galleries of paintings, old and new, and its Academy of Art. And 
then to the twin towns of Barmen and Elberfeld, a trade and labor 
center with crowds of workers, the hum of busy industry, the rush 
of wealth making, the well filled shops, the marks of coal smoke 
over all. Silks, cottons, and many other goods spring into existence 
here. And then to Cologne, famous for scents and for religious od- 
dities. It has a church (St. ITrsida), that displays human bones in 
stacks, human skulls grinning in glass cases, and cross bones enough 
to cover the flags of all the old-time pirates. It is a place as dis- 
mal as the mind of a morbid man. Legend says that eleven thous- 
and virgins were slain Avhere St. Ursula church now stands ; but 
Kelo remarked, " It am er heap easier to tell er lie than for er lie tu 
be tru." 

The church of St. Peter has a frightful altar piece by Tiubens, the 
realistic crucifi.vion of St. Peter, head downward. It makes one 



CIIUIiCH OF ST. PETETl. 151 

shudder to see it. The vast cathedrfil is massive and elaborate, a 
tremendous pile of that expensive style, pure Gothic. It is said to 
have originated in A. D. 814, Avas burned in 1248, recommenced 
then and finished in 1881. In a magnificent crypt of gold and prec- 
ious stones are shown three skulls, said to be those of the wise men 
of the East who came to Jesus when he was born in Bethlehem ! 
Harry stood on the third step of the golden crypt, and then was tall 
enough to look into the gable of that high gold structure, and there 
he saw those three skulls set around with glittering jewels. This 
rich crypt was hidden in Xapoleon's time, lest he should seize it. 
Here are bundles of gTistly bones kept as relics, and it is fit place 
for bottles of the darkness of the dark ages. But the cathedral it- 
self is magnificent. Its two tall towers j^ierce the sky five hundred 
and twelve feet. The great, front portal is ninety-three feet high 
and thirty-eight feet wide. The outside is beautified with a j^rofu- 
sion of buttresses, turrets, galleries, cornices and foliage work. 
The interior is six hundred and fifty feet long, and the nave one 
hundred and forty-five feet high. The top is upheld by fifty-six 
enormous stone columns. The interior area is seventy thousand, 
three hundred and ninety-nine square yards. It coixld contain an 
army. The stained glass windows, old and new, are pretty, and 
better than the statues. 

Convinced that Annie had gone up the Bhine, Harry hastened on 
by rail. The grand scenery deeply impressed him. Here broken 
cliffs seemed to reach the skj', there old castles were perched on 
crags, and green groves nestled in sheltered spots high up toward 
the clouds, then steep vine-clad hills stood before him. In one place 
he counted fourteen great stone terraces rising high, one above 
another, like stairs, and all covered with vines. In places, the 
windings of the steep and deep gorge of the Rhine, gives such pe- 
culiar, rich and varied shades of light, so weird, so delicate, that this 
added charm to the ali'cady superb scenery, and interest is added by 
the local legends of love and war like this : 

Koland went to the wars. His love waited long, then, believing 
him dead, she entered a nunnery on that flat island at the foot of a 
height. He came back. Finding she was lost to hira, he built a 



152 13,000 MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

castle on the crag-side where he could look doAvn on her abode. 
Sometimes he saw her at her devotions. Her death broke his heart. 
He Avas found dead with his eyes turned to the spot where she had 
been. 

Bonn, with its university, was passed, and then a steel railway 
took Ilarry to the top of the hill at Kolandseck, where he was de- 
lighted with a wide view of the mountains, crags, castle ruins, deep 
gorges and lofty crests, with mournful Drachenfels and. the Seven 
JMountains before him. At Neweid a bevy of Moravian women, in 
white caps, the girls with blue ribbons, the unmarried women with 
pink, the married women with blue, and widows with Avhite, looked 
picturesque. 

Coblenz is very beautiful. It is the center of the finest Rhine 
scenery. Plere meet two of the most picturesque rivers of Euroj^e. 
A bridge of boats, four hundred yards long, and a fine railway bridge 
cross the Rhine, and beyond them rises the majestic, strong fortress, 
Ehronbreitstein, its foot three hundred and eighty-seven feet above 
the river, and its massive Avails, stand on a rock inaccessible on three 
sides. It looks impregnable. It is large enough to hold an army. 
It has been a fortress from very early times. It has withstood many 
sieges. Napoleon's peace Avitli Austria, of Luneville, in 1801, re- 
quired that it be dismantled. But on his last overthi-OAv, in 1815, 
France had to pay to Prussia fifteen million francs to restore it, and 
Prussia has used much more money. Harry went to the top and 
there had a glorious vicAV of the grand old, castled, vine-clad Rhine. 
Harry saw a party of soldiers drawing a cart loaded Avith bread, up 
the fortress' steep and Avinding road. It was a hard task, Kelo said 
it Avas difficult as climbing " the hill of fame, ef dar be sich er hill." 
Two of those soldiers are German barons, for in Germany and 
France title is but little exemption from military service, eA^ery 
young mnn, without regard to rank must serve, and so these barons 
were soldiers. From the fortress, Coblenz and its lovely environs 
form a splendid, great picture, richly framed by lofty heights orna- 
mented with castles. 

" Wat am dat asterisk up dar?" 

" Obelisk, you mean. It commemorates soldiers who fell in the 
Austrian war in 1866." 



A PAUSE AT MAINZ. I53 

At Wiesbaden Kelo made a discovery. He came, excited, to 
Harry, saying, " I'se foun' der strangis t'ing! A whol' bilin' uv 
cliickin brof ar bilin' jis rite outen de groun' ! Com' an' see it ! " 

It is the chloride of sodimn mineral hot si:)ring. Its flavor is as 
Kelo described it. 

Mainz, a strong fortress town, a Roman camp before Christ, six 
hundred years ago the center of the league of Rhenish towns, Harry 
found to be a quaint, queer city, with narrow and crooked streets, odd 
looking buildings, the town of six centuries ago, and then added 
is a district of new, bj-oad, American-like streets, the whole sur- 
rounded by the hills and fortress walls, and the Rhine. A strip 
three hundred feet wide has been cleared along the river. To Mainz 
Napoleon was driven in 1813: after his terrible defeat of Leipsic, its 
strength was his refuge. From 1815 to 1866 it was garrisoned 
jointly by Prussia and Austria. Since Sadowa gave it to Prussia 
she keeps eight thousand soldiers here. The Mainz cathedral dates 
back above one thousand years. Destroyed by fire in A. D. 1009, 
1081, 1137, 1181, each time it was rebuilt on a grander scale. At 
Mainz was born Gutenberg, Avho invented printing from movable 
types, about A. D. 1440, after Coster of Haarlem had also invented 
it in 1423. Dr. Faust sold a printed copy of the Bible to the king of 
France for seven hundred crowns. It was an imitation of manu- 
script. Faust Avns charged with being in league with the devil, and 
forced to reveal the secret invention. 

In the citadel Harry saw the Eigelstein, erected hj the Romans 
B. C. 9, on the spot where Drusus met his death. It is now but a 
gray circular mass of stone forty-two feet high. It was eighty-two 
feet high as late as A. D. 1500. 

Harry saw a milkman with several cows, stop before the door of 
each customer and milk the required amount. No chance to water 
milk there. 

Harry could almost touch the vines as he rode from the Rhine to 
Frankfort. It is a famous vine region. Frankfort, the old-time 
capital of the east Frank empire, the birthplace of Goethe, election 
place of many emperors of the old German em])ire which ceased ia 
1806, was a free city till 1866, when Prussia took it. 



154 l^fiOO MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

Before this century Germany Ayas many states. It had an emperor 
and two liouses of goyernment. In 1802 Napoleon diyided a part 
of it among his friends and took the power oyer them. He took the 
title of " Protector." His Confederation of the Rhine, of 1802, which 
placed him in power over part of the German states, dissolved the 
old empire. Its emperor, Francis II, took, in 1806, the new title, 
emperor of Austria, as Fr.'mcis I. The present empire dates only 
from January 18, 1871, and is not a renewal of the old empire. 

Of the Kaisersaal Kelo said, " Its front door openz inter its suller," 
and so it does. It contains wonderful paintings of many gone-by 
monarchs. The cathedral, gi-and, somber, artistic, contains a strange; 
life-like relief of Jews mocking Jesus. Possibly the realistic picture 
has fed the hatred of the Jews which caused their exclusion, on pain 
of death, from the market place, and the locking of them into their 
own street, Judengasse, every evening and Sundaj^s and holidays. 
The old gate is gone. Harry saw there the residence of Meyer An- 
selm, founder of the Rothchilds, a shop fifteen feet Avide. 

They went to the Zoological Gardens. Kelo remarked, " Mung 
der lionz ob der Zoo, I seen er queerum uv salt water fishes. Ef dem 
was cookt wud dera be salt cod fish ? " Kelo was delighted with a 
picture of St. Sebastian tied to a tree and shot full of arrows. All 
those roastings of saints delighted him as much as if he had been the 
best kind of a Sunday-school boy. If they Avere painted to glorify 
the church, then Avhy not send them to our Avild Indians ? They 
alone can fully appreciate them. Europe has many of these hor- 
rible paintings. At Darmstadt Kelo saw Flinck's painting of "A 
Woman Cleansing Her Boy's Head." It roused in him unpleasant 
recollections of the Sunday mornings when his mother used to scour 
his face Ayith sand to "take off the Injin." Then he found a bust 
which he called, "A Ayimun dat's bust off all her close off." It Avas 
one of Solomon's Avives. Kelo said, " I s'poze Sol cudn't 'ford t' 
dress his Avifes, cos he had s' many." 

Few places equal in beauty the euAdrons of Heidelberg, for five 
hundred years, till 1721, the capital of the Palatinate. From 1802 
it belongs to Baden. High up on the hillside hangs the ruined castle, 
founded five hundred years ago. Its round tower, ninety-three feet 



UARRY AT STliASBITRG. I55 

in (liainctcr, Avas Llown w]) by the French two hundred years ago, 
and half of it still lies in the moat. In 1G93 the castle was burned. 
It was rebuilt, but lightning ruined it in 1764. It is tlio most raag- 
nitieent ruin in Germany. The faeade, part Ionic and part Corinth- 
ian, standing three stories above the high basement, is still richly 
adorned with beautiful sculjttures. 

Baden, at the entr.uue cf tlie Black Forest, was crowded with 
summer visitors, who were roaming its picturesque, wooded hills, 
and delightful valley. As a watering place Baden is rivalled only 
by Wiesbaden, which it excels in beauty. " Tho principal effi- 
cacy of its water consists in its high temperature,'"' says Badeker. 
"Den w'y not drink b'ilin' water an' git well tu hum?" asked Kelo. 

Harry found Strasburg located not on strong hills as he supposed, 
but on an almost flat country. It was long a free city of Germany, 
In 1445 it repelled a French attack, in 1G81, in time of profound 
peace, Louis XIV of France seized it, and the Treaty of Ryswick, 
in 1697, confirmed it to him. Germany exacted its cession back to 
Germany in 1871. Its university, founded in 1621, closed by the 
French in 1794, was reopened in 1872. Goethe graduated here in 
1771. The cathedral is bold and striking. Its famous clock attracts 
spectators. At twelve o'clock, as he was looking at it, the twelve 
apostles, of large size, came out and walked around the Saviour. A 
rooster, perched on a pinnacle, flapped its wings and crowed loudly. 
" Nebber I'se seen er wooden rooster and wooden men do the like o' 
that afore ! " exclaimed Kelo. Perched three hundred and thirty 
steps in the air, on the s\)\re platform, Harry had before his eyes a 
grand panorama of the town, the Rhine, the Black Forest in the east 
and the Vosges in the southwest. 

At their hotel in Strasburg, a German and Frenchman disputed 
about the fighting qualities of their dogs. They agreed to let the 
brutes decide it by a fight in a dark room. Kelo was chosen umpire. 
He alone was in the room to insure fair play. The dogs began in 
great vigor and noise. Kelo had found a secret trap door. He 
opened it and away went both dogs. Then he called in the 
principals. 

"Got in himmel ! I)ey ish eat each todder up!" exclaimed the 
German. 



156 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" Le cliien liaf exhaled ! " cried the Frenchman. 

The German sat down to reason it out : the Frenchman wrote a 
brilliant account of the strange affair. 

Wild, beautiful and varied, above all other wooded districts of 
Germany, are the scenes of the Black Fcn-est. The country looks as 
if once blown up by dynamite, and fallen back in immense, grand 
fragments, where water courses have washed their beds among the 
gigantic debris of rock, and trees have grown up wherever they can 
find soil to cling. Through it the railway strangely picks its won- 
derful way, now high and sheer up in a crease made in the very face 
of lofty rock, far above the tops of tall firs that grow at the precipice's 
foot ; then tlirough a tunnel to cut off some sharp angle ; then halt- 
ing on some high rock platform above some quaint village. At Tri- 
berg, Harry saw the finest waterfall in Avest Germany, the Faulen- 
bach, four hundred and twenty-six feet in seven distinct leaps over 
huge blocks of granite. So winding is this raihvay that sometimes 
he saAV, a few rods below him, the rail on which he had come, but 
which took a mile of turnings to climb to him. This winding of the 
track enables it to ascend. Then he went through a bore in the 
mountain, more than a mile (eighteen hundred and fifty two 
yards) through the hill of SOMMERAU, the WATERSHED 
between the RHINE and the DANUBE. He walked from the sta- 
tion back to the crown of the hill. It was raining. The rain that fell 
from one side of his umbrella, ran down the north side of the 
mountain, and away through the Rhine to the North sea : that 
which fell from the other side ran down the south declivity into the 
Brigach, and away to the distant east through the Danube, to the 
Black sea. Near by St. Georgen, the Brigach is the real source 
of the Danube, though twenty-one miles further on, is a walled spring 
called and shown in pictures as its source. The source is twenty 
six hundred and sixty feet above sea level. 

At first sight of the upper Rhine, Harry was astonished. He ex- 
claimed "It is green ! " Nearly all the lakes of Switzerland are green ! 
He had never before heard of green water. He went to the Falls of 
the Rhine. These are in volume the grandest falls in Europe. On 
the left bank the river falls sixty feet, on the right bank forty-eight 



SWITZERLAND. 157 

feet ; the rapids soon increase tlie Avliole fall to nearly one hundred 
feet. Harry saw rainbows form in clouds of silvery spray. Frona a 
projecting iron platform, the spectacle is stupendous. The wide 
green water leaps with a roar like continuous thunder down the 
precipice. 

Switzerland is about half the area of Maine. It is in several 
local governments with one general head, and is a free country. 
Most of the laAvs must be voted by the j'eople direct. Its languages 
are French, German, Italian and dialects of each and of all. A ma- 
jority are Protestants, but nearl}' half are Catholics. The President 
has but little power. His term is short. Primary education is com- 
pulsoiy. The people are well informed and they pur sue many occu- 
pations. Silks, cottons, leather, paper, and watches and jewelry are 
made in several places. In Lake Zug, near Zurich, are the remains 
of ancient lake dwellings. They contain clumsy stone tools and 
bones of the stag, boar, fox, cow, sheep and dog, and excite great 
curiosity. 

At Lucerne market was being held. Kelo was soon attracted to 
a bevy of girls, each trying to sell him something. He gave way to 
the fairest and bought a small dog. The others accused him of par- 
tiality. To appease the next he traded to her the dog for a pair of 
wooden shoes. This set the others to cackling harder than ever, 
and he traded the shoes for a basket of cherries and invited them all 
to picnic with him. The girls declined but insisted on trading. He 
got three yards of cheap calico for the cherries and traded again for 
a cigar case. Then they tried to sell him a goat. Kelo began to 
edge away. He offered the calico to any girl for a kiss but got no 
taker. They followed him up, and he turned to run. The girls pur- 
sued, the ci'owd laughed and Kelo ran faster and turned the corner 
three steps ahead of his foremost frolicsome pursuer. 

Lake Lucerne, with its green water — a delicate green — and the 
grand parade of mountains that rear their tall heads all around to 
frame it in, with the three peaked Mt. Pilatus, the last abode of Pontius 
Pilate, high above his right, and the famed Mt. Rigi on his left, and a 
whole assembly of tall mountains right before him, was a grand pic- 
ture that astonished hun. He Avalked over a bridge and looked deep 



158 13,000 MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

down in that clear green water and saw the fishes at home. He 
came back by an inclosed bridge that is a picture gallery. A walk 
of a few minutes took him to a little garden where rose a high preci- 
l^ice in whose big face the " Lion of Lucerne " looked down upon 
him. The enormous lion, twenty-eight feet long, is cut in the sand- 
stone bluff itself. It lies in a cavern, dying, transfixed with a broken 
lance and sheltering the Bourbon lily with its paw. The rock bears 
the names of twenty-six ofiicers and seven hundred and sixty soldiers 
Avho fell at Paris, August 10, 1702. Kclo, too, was astonished. He 
had seen the elej^hant in the circus, and the lions, but he never till 
now believed that a lion can be bigger than an elephant. 

Lucerne is picturesque, its walls built five hundred years ago still 
inclose it. The view of lake, mountain and snow-clad Alps is one of 
great beauty. Harry ascended Pilatus. From its summit he saw a 
vast exte nt of highly improved country before his delighted eyes. 
It seemed a marvel of stupendous beauty. 

In crossing the lake to the Rigi Kelo stuck to his favorite colors, 
for he Avent to sleep in a chair freshly painted red, white and blue. 
A peasant woke him and asked jiay for the spoiled paint. Kelo de- 
manded pay for his spoiled summer suit. They became angry. On 
landing at Vitznau the peasant threatened to throw him from the 
cliff. Kelo was ready. Each attacked the other. The moment they 
closed in, a big dog rushed upon them; the onset threw them whirl- 
ing from the rock, through the air, into the lake below, the dog on 
top. The water closed over them. They were gone from view for 
half a minute. Then the dog appeared. Next up popped Kelo's 
head. Then came the Swiss. They were thirty yards apart. Both 
swam to attack again. But an ofiicer forbade it. The water had 
cooled their anger and they came ashore, and the Swiss offered to 
paint Kelo's suit all over. Kelo said, "As I're er christian, I furgib 
ye cos I carn't punish ye : but if I ever git able, I'll lick ye !" Harry 
was indignant, he said, " Kelo, I think you and I are not suited to 
each other." " I know it," said Kelo, " I orter hab er better master." 

The north side of the Rigi is very steep, the south side is broad 
terraces and green slojjes and pastures with four thousand cattle, and 
with chestnut, fig and almond trees at the base. The Rigi com- 



KELO IN TROUBLE. 159 

mands a very extensive view of Avonderful beauty. At sight of those 
cattle Kelo's cow-boy instincts were aroused, he wanted to get 
drunk, to brandish a big knife, to hurt somebody. He shouted, he 
drank, he fired off a revolver, but he was captured and led away to 
solitude. 

Half an hour before sunrise an Alpine horn sounded. Then all 
was bustle, noise and confusion, the sun was coming. A throng 
rushed from the hotels to the highest point. 

" A faint streak in the east, which gradually paled the light of the 
stars, melted into a band of gold on the horizon ; each lofty peak be- 
came tinged with a roseate blush ; the shadows of the great space 
between the Rigi and the horizon gradually stole aAvay ; forests, 
lakes, hills, towns and villages revealed ; all at first gray and cold, 
till at length the sun burst from behind the mountains in all its maj- 
esty, flooding the su|)erb landscape with light and warmth." 

But in an hour the mists rose and condensed into clouds and hid 
most of the landscape. At breakfast when many persons were pres- 
ent, Kelo ajjpeared. He was exuberant. He had found a pony, 
mounted, lassoed a cow and brought her in with triumph. He tied the 
beast to a pillar of the portico and swaggered into the breakfast 
room. The landlord, in great anger, rushed in and ordered him out. 
Kelo refused. I'll have a service on you ! he cried. This reminded 
Kelo of religious service. He mounted a sofa and preached thus : 

" My tex' am, ' Jesruran waxed fat and kicked.' Why did he kict ? 
I don'no. Who did he kict? I can't tell. But I'll tell who orter 
be kict. Fust. Yer guest w'at goes an' sez yer corn cake didn't suit 
'im. Sekunt. Him as spites ye w'en yer leaf off doin' 'im favuz. 
Thurt. Him thet borrerz yer nabur's things w'en ye want ter bor- 
erer 'm. Fo'th. The chap az wants me ter b'l'eve jis like he b'l'evz. 
Fif. The feller as donno yer want yer money that he borrert. 
Sixth. The one thet furgits ter say ' good mornin'.' Sev — " But 
here a rush of waiters carried him off. 

From the top of Rigi Harry saw where a big slide had mai'ked the 
opposite Rossberg. "It is," said a guide, "the spot where, in 1806, 
a mile of earth and stones, one hundred feet deep and one thousand 
feet wide, from a height of above a half mile, slid to the valley, bury- 
ing four villages and their four hundred and fifty-seven inhabitants." 



160 13,000 MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

At Altdorf he saw a colossal statue of Tell on the sjjot where that 
hero, who is mythical, is said to have aimed the arrow at the ajjple 
on his boy's head. No matter that he did not live, we have our real 
Tell. In our " mind's eye " we can see the whole affair, so it an- 
swers our turn quite well, we stick to our hero. But Kelo raur- 
mnred : " Hov/ storiz is spilt ! Now Billy Tell nebber tole a lie ; 
Ben Butler nebber cut down his papa's cherry tree ; Poky Hunkus 
nebber saved Blaine ; an' az fur de boy thet stood on de burnin' 
neck, he's kinder petered out." 

As Harry entered the great, dark depths of the stupendous gorge 
of the ever brawling Reuss, he looked away ujd to the gorge's great 
gatepost, the Ross-stock, with its head a mile and a half sheer in the 
air, many hiindreds of feet of which are almost perpendicular. 

Up the wild splashing Reuss, that marvelous gorge where the 
world seems to have cracked asunder ; where often the rock of im- 
mense height overhangs the railway, you pass long and frequently 
through the tunnels made through solid rock, Avhile mountains are 
directly above your head ; you run long in simjDle artificial creases 
in the very face of lofty cliffs; often where the sun never strikes; 
frequently in intense darkness, and then shoot out of the eternal 
night of the great depths of the rock and dash across a slender steel 
bridge at great height from the great rift's bed, and down there for 
an instant catch a glance of the white foaming Reuss dashing among 
rocks and over steeps. You catch a glimpse of the sun, then you 
are again deep in the interior of another mountain. Thousands of 
feet above your head the sun is kissing the great rock summits. 
The smoke obstructs your bi-eath, you long for light. Out you dash 
into day again. On you go, looking for a moment up some deep 
valley where some other stream pours into this crazy Reuss. Then 
you fly along a slope from which you try in vain to see the tojJ of 
the opposite summit. You behold a great mass of debris that has 
lodged on its way down; you see that it is ice, but old, faded, 
discolored, it looks like clay and rocks. Then for a short distance 
you breathe again. You look at a dead wall of rock on your left 
hand while on your right away down, down you see, afar below, the 
tops of tall slender trees. You could toss a stone upon them. You 




METTKXSKE, (il.AUJJUS, SWITZEKLANB. 




tUElLfUSSllt-C 



LAKE DE TANNEY, SWITZERLAND. 





VOr.KSGAKTEN, GLAlIiUS, SWITZERLAND. 




A !.!• I X K II A V MA K K1!S. 




WOMEN' OF MEKAN. SPLUGEX PASS. 




JUVEIi TUKXEI) THROUGH KOCK, lUtEXXKR liAIMJOAl), TVJiOI- 




WATERFALT., SCHLITZKN GOUGE, AUSTRIA. 



TIIEOUan THE TUNNELS. ,177 

reach Arnsteg. Not far to your right looms the mighty Rothstock, 
its high liead almost two miles above the sea ; right ahead to the 
south stands the pyramidal Bristenstock piercing the sky nearly two 
miles. The mind expands with the grandeur of massive scenery. 
But the most interesting part of the line begins hei'e. The many 
falls and cascades of the frolicsome Reuss are wilder. You rush 
across a gay river on an imposing iron bridge one hundred and sev- 
enty-seven feet high, catch sight of the Windgellen about two miles 
high, then through long tunnels, and then across the wild-dashing 
Reuss on a slender bridge fifty-four feet higher in the air than 
Bunker Hill monument. At Gurtnellen you are at the bottom of 
the rift in that spot and twenty-two hundred and ninety-seven 
feet above the sea ! In all directions tower enormous mountains. 
But Gosclienen, nine and one-half miles further on, is thirty- 
six hundred and forty feet above the sea. How is it possible for the 
railway to overcome this difference of one hundred and forty feet 
elevation per mile? Here was a problem for engineers. They have 
done it. The rail enters the interior of the mountain of rock, winds 
in a spiral like a cockscrew, and so rises one hundred and fifteen feet 
inside of the mountain itself. At the end of sixteen hundred 
and thirty-five yards — almost a mile — it emerges to daylight 
and you see Wassen perched on top of a rock directly in the way, 
but far above you. Then you enter the second tunnel, wind around 
more than half a mile inside the solid rock, come out, recross the 
river, pass through the rock under the village, cross a handsome 
bridge, rush into the interior of another mountain, take another turn 
within it, then through various other tunnels and over bridges ; and 
then you look back and see the village that you have passed undei\ 
and it is still above you ! The melting of snow on the high sum- 
mits pours down numerous waterfalls, one of which is of astounding 
hightj and j^resents a very beautiful spectacle. Then came the great 
St. Gothard tunnel. It is an immense boi-e of nine and one-quarter 
miles directly through that mountain. It was begun in 1872 and fin- 
ished in 1880, at a cost of about ten million dollars. 

Harry left the rail long enough to go through the somber, lofty 
defile bounded by high, almost perpendicular cliffs, the border of 
12 



178 1^^000 MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

the Keiiss, to the old " Devil's Bridge," where, amid wild scenery, a 
picturesque cascade plunges one hundred feet into the abyss, sprink- 
ling the bridge with its spray. It is a wdld strange spot, a singular 
place for wvar. Yet here, in August, 1709, the Austrians and French 
met and fought, and the former were driven away. A month later 
Kussians and French fought hei-e. The French tried to blow up 
the bridge, the Russians went down into the river bed under galling 
fire, and climbed the other bank, and drove the French down the 
Reuss by the way that Harry had just come. 

To pass through the greatest tunnel in the world took twenty 
minutes. The center of the tunnel is more i\\on a mile directly 
under the summit (Kastlehorn). He passed thirty-three hundred 
and fifty feet below the surface of Sella Lake I 

On the Italian side, the Ticino forces its way, it descends in many 
falls and turns of a wild, rocky gorge. But the railway to make de- 
scent circles inside the mountains, in two places in loop tunnels, that 
Avind like continuous winding stairs, it goes through rock tunnels in 
many places. The Faido waterfall is magnificent, the scenery is beau- 
tiful, romantic. Masses of rock lie among fine chestnut trees, queer 
houses crown the crests. Then come more great cascades. That of 
Lavorgo falls hundreds of feet. Then the Ticino itself makes a 
great leap from its rocks downward, and the railway descends again 
in two loop tunnels, corkscrew fashion, and then in more and im- 
mense loop tunnels. Opposite Bodio a fine large waterfall apj^ears 
as if leaping right out of the cliff itself ; it is very high ; and then 
another. Magnificent falls appear here and there. Here is a cas- 
cade that must be eight hundred feet; there is one of 1200 feet 
spouting from the monster precipice, falling, spreading like a veil, 
striking a mass of rock debris, disajj^^earing, reapjiearing, leajjing 
down hundreds of feet. The Faido, a splendid delight to the eye, 
appears to fall in three leajjs, 1800 or 2000 feet, and more of it is 
hidden by rocks. It is in early summer when the high snows are 
melting that these streams have water to make their grandest 
disjjlays. 

Harry took a quick turn of the lovely Italian lakes, saw Lo- 
carno and its scenery, sailed down the fair Mr.ggiore, turned into 



NORTH ITALY. 179 

Lugano, crossed the mountain on tlie stee}) railway, slept at Menag- 
gio, lieard the landlord's story how the late Vanderbilt once grum- 
bled to him of his hard fate in having, unlike men who are not mil- 
lionaires, no time to see the glories of that wonderful lake Como, 
nor even time sufficient to sleep, for he must make his tour of Eu- 
rope in a given number of hours, and return to New York to look 
after his railroads ; how he ordered the landlord to call him very er.rly 
in the morning, and to compel him to get up and go. It was an 
amusing and true story told under the vines of the garden, while 
Harry was taking lunch. In that jjretty garden Harry wished in- 
tensely for his Eve to enjoy that fine scenery, to sail and ^iug to- 
gether upon beautiful Como, to gaze at its lofty shores, to gossip cf 
the loves of the ancients, who Avith Pliny, lived there to dream 
Elysian visions of fair happiness in so charming a spot. Plis feelings 
became inflamed, he ordered a boat, left as abruptly as did money- 
laden Vanderbilt, and sailed to Como, and on by rail, ho;)ing to find 
Annie at Milan, for, said he, " Girls admire Italy, that is where she 
has gone. I'll find her, she shall give np this race and marry me at 
once, and then we will see Europe together in happiness." 

In large and charming Milan, he quickly made the round of the 
picture galleries, the libraries and j^ublic gardens, and the museums. 
He rushed through the great marble cathedral, looked with half a 
glance at a dozen of its thousands of statues, stood in the great 
Piazza del Duomo and stared ten minutes at the magnificent fayade, 
paid a fee to see the sj^lendid exhibition of the treasure and the old 
saint under the high altar, Avent to the Marie della Gracie to see the 
Leonardo da Vinci picture of " The Last Supper," called it what it 
really is, a bad drawing, a sickly, disagreeable set of men, faded by 
four hundred years of age, but with revolting expressions of the faces. 

In the street, he was passing a mean looking place where he saw 
persons entering. He followed. Pushing aside the portier that here 
does duty for a door, he entered and saw a most singular church* 
with four square chajDcls on each side, and a gallery oAcr each, and 
all covered with very old and very bright and queer frescoes, a mon- 
ster show box worthy of the late Barnum's circus. It is the St. Mau- 
rizio. It is strang-e and gorgeous. 



180 13fi(^0 illLES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

Harry had studied the phrase book, there was the English and its 
equivalent in German, French and Italian, he would order in Italian 
at the gorgeous Arcade Victor Emanuel. A waiter in sober black 
stood with najjkin on his arm to receive the order. Harry gave it. 
He was confident it was in good Italian. The waiter's eyebrows 
raised a little, but he stood still. Harry repeated the order. •' I 
maks im unstan," jjut in Kelo, and he cackled lilie a hen to mean 
that Harry wanted eggs, and then he rang a loud shrill crow through 
the Arcade to signify chicken. A crowd began to gather, Kelo 
crowed again. Two 2)olicemen came quickly. Then Kelo raised a 
bottle to his lips and jDut on a drunken look to mean that he wanted 
whisky. Three soldiers arrived. With this military escort, Kelo 
was moved off. But on Harry's assuring them that Kelo Avas only or- 
dering supper, and woiild not repeat his entertainment, they released 
him. But Kelo insisted that he was a free man, that freedom must 
prevail, and a government that thus insulted liberty ought not to be. 

Then they took him to prison. Kelo folded his yard long black 
hair up into the toj) of his tall silk hat, and declared that the great 
Italian navy should not prevent his revenge. He would knock the 
head off those policemen. " I olus sell my life dearly," he said. 
Harry interfered to save Kelo. But this only endangered himself, 
Kelo had defied Italian power. Was not Harry a party to the of- 
fense ? Harry saw that he must act promptly, better have Kelo j^ay 
a fine and go free. So he asked instant action. Kelo was taken be- 
fore a judge. The court fined him five hundred dollars for his 
threats, and would condone the disturbance if both would instantly 
leave Italy. Harry paid the fine. Ten minutes later he entered his 
hotel to pay his bill and order a carriage for the station. There he 
met, on the stairway, Annie herself ! Harry told her the situation. 
He must leave Italy. He wished her to go with him. They must 
be off at once. They would be mai-ried in a few days. They could 
travel together or settle in some romantic spot of grand Switzerland 
and be happy. " Come, let us be off ! " 

Annie was indignant that he should propose thus to take advant- 
age of lier benefactor and his own. " It would be jjerfidy, treachery ; 
I will not discuss it," she said as she passed him on the stairs. Harry 



HARRY GOES EAST. 181 

was about to follow her and urge his case, but he saw a policeman 
watching to see if he would try to evade leaving Italy. He dared 
not provoke his own arrest. By daylight next morning he was in 
the Sphigen Pass. He halted only to cool his heated blood by 
climbing on foot the famous Via Mala (Bad Way), and to admire 
the queerly costumed women of Meran. Kelo had bought a jDair of 
boots at Milan ; they were pretty and he was vain of them. But 
now that he was on foot both soles came off. They were only paper. 
But Kelo scorns to be disconcei'ted by any trifle. He walked proudly 
on, wearing the pretty boots minus soles. When a bevy of maidens 
followed and laughed at the prints of his toes in the soil, he affably 
told them that this was the usual style in America. They laughed 
again, and Kelo, who is a hero, dashed among them and kissed the 
fairest, for Avhich he was applauded by a fat old Swiss gentleman 
who was riding by. 

At Sargans Harry took the wrong car and went off his course to 
Glaui'us. But a few hours later he was at Innspruck in the Tyrol, 
on his rushing way east. A dispatch from the referees gave, " Points 
made, Annie, one hundred and sixty-tliree ; Harry, two hundred and 
thirty-one ! " " Good ! I'm clear ahead ! I'll pay Annie off yet for 
her refusal of my proposals," he said. 

At Vienna Harry wrote to Annie this letter : 

"Dearest — The moon sliines brightly into my window and by its 
gleam I write — I love you. My darling, O, my darling ! I have 
hastened from you, I regret it; I wish I had staid till you consented 
to forget your foolish adherence to what you mistake for obligations 
to Smith, and joined me to bo happy. But I will have you yet. 
Don't think to escape me. I win this race, I win you ; I will have 
no excuses." 

Then lighting a cigar he walked on the Ring, the grand boulevards 
made in place of the old ramparts ; he gazed at the grand gothic 
Votive church, whose lovely architecture delighted him ; he cocked 
his eye at the University, Town Hall and Exchange ; he observed 
that it was the finest part of that sumptuous city ; he saw that the 
people were gayer than North Germans, that East and West Europe 
meet in throngs at Vienna, that the masses amuse themselves, that 



182 i5,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

the jDarks and gardens seem vast pleasure grounds. He admired the 
more expressive faces, the free gait, and cheerful ways of the jieople. 
Then he gave a handsome Gypsy girl a franc to sing to him. Then 
a franc to play her tambourine ; and then five francs to dance. Then 
more francs to sing, play and dance. He tried to sing with her; 
but the tune would jar. Then he, too, danced. It was scandalous 
and a policeman arrested him. The officer let the girl go with a 
reprimand. Harry was startled. Here miglit be an end to his 
winning tlie race, to his winning Annie and tlie half million. 

" I will give you a franc to release me," he offered. The man 
said " No ! " 

" Five francs." " No." " Twenty francs." " No ! " 

"Look a-here ; I'll give you one hundred dollars, and I'll leave 
town quicker than a run." The man took the one hundred dollars, 
and in ten minutes Harry was on a train rushing down the Danube. 
The same Gipsy girl was in the car singing lo him. The passengers 
objected and the guard jiut her off at the station between Presburg 
and the Baths of Totis. 

The Austrian Empire is various countries and different peoples 
and languages. In area and population it ranks third in Europe. 
The Tyrol, Styria and Carinthia are mountainous. Hungary is a 
plain between mountains. Bohemia and Moravia are almost circled 
by mountains. Galicia slopes to Russian j^lains. Dalmatia is part of 
the Balkan region. The emperor is king of Hungary, which is of 
many different races, but Magyars are dominant. The Austrian 
national legislature is sixty members from Hungary and sixty from 
the rest of the empire. Germans and Chechs disj^ute dominance in 
Bohemia. Galicia is Polish. The empire contains Magyars, Ger- 
mans, Moravians, Chechs, Poles, Ruthenians, Slavs, Italians, Ru- 
manians, Jews, Gipsies and Tyrolese. It is fifty-six political divis- 
ions. The other races resent the presence of the dominant Germans 
and Magyai's, who are not a majority, and hardly two-fifths. The 
Slavs are nearly a majority; in the north and south they are a ma- 
jority, but in different parts they differ in religion ; Catholic, Greek 
and Islam. 

Hungaiy is a vast plain rimmed with mountains. It is the basin 



IN HUNGARY. Igg 

of an ancient lake. It depends most on agricultui'e. Wine, wheat, 
caitio, liorses and sheep are great products, Xinety-two per cent of 
its soil IS said to be arable. Most of tlie Danube's banks are not 
stable, but they siiift with the iloods, and so islands and channels 
change. Harry saw floating mills on it. He saw many islands above 
Komorn, but below there the river lay in a single bed for a long dis- 
tance. Then the narrow gorge, the iron gate of Orsova, separates 
the plain of Presburg from the plain of Hungary. 

" .Vre your women industrious?" asked Harry of a fellow traveler. 

" Very. They do much farm work." 

" How do you win them to matrimony ? " 

"Ah ! few women would marry if we did not first love them." 

" Do you always marry for love ? " 

" No. At Topanfalva a maiden's fair is held on St. Peter's and 
St. Paul's da}^ It attracts the young men. Hundreds of girls with 
their relatives come there." 

" Are any chosen ? " 

*' They sit ui^on their packages among their cattle dowry. A law- 
yer sits under a tree to draw the contracts." 

" And are girls taken freely ? " 

" More than a hundred at one fair." 

Harry proposed to stay at the fan-, l^ut tlie Magyar said it was not 
in session. 

The Magyar is fond of fine clothes, ribbons and flowers on his hat, 
silk sash over blue or red jacket with metal buttons, white overcoat 
with flowers embroidered, loose *linen trousers with broad fringe. 
He is fond of dancing and music. 

Much contention exists between races in Austria and Hungary. 
JEWS are traders, they increase rapidly. Epidemic and endemic 
diseases less affect them. GIPSIES are plenty. Every fete requires 
them as musicians. 



184 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

VII 
FRANCE. 

All was bright and lovely as Annie entered Finance. Vale and 
sloj^e were gay in soft green blended with deeper hues of grain. 
Birds chattered in the chestnut trees that shaded the red-tiled cot- 
tages. The gay morning landscape seemed to smile a welcome to 
her; she felt unlike a stranger in that pretty land. 

She saw amusing spectacles, nut brown girls riding donkeys; the 
signs on little inns, " On loge a pied et a cheval " (they lodge on foot 
and on horse); the many women at work tilling fields or trundling 
carts, and, at a village she beheld a bridal procession moving to 
music of fiddle and clarionet, the groom in blue, the brunette bride 
by his side in blushes of red, and robe and slipj^ers of white, and a 
wreath of white roses in her hair ; a bevy of maidens, each perhaps 
Avishing herself a bride ; a troop of young men looking wistfully at 
the brown girls. Then on went the train, and hill, grove and valley 
of this well tilled land flitted by and then — Paris. 

On the Atlantic steamer Annie had become acquainted with Count 
Rocco Corvo. They were met at the station by Dr. Deran, a skillful 
American physician, and by the Count, an Italian who could speak 
French American, and conducted to the Grand Hotel. 

After a French breakfast, bread and black coffee, they took the 
best method to see the famous interior boulevards, the top of an om- 
nibus, and looked down through the small trees into the windows of 
the pretty shops. The buildings are inferior to many streets in 
America. It is in public structures that Paris is grand. These 
boulevards follow the windings of the old fortifications, whose place 
they occupy. 

As they neared the Place de la Bastile they saw steam rising 
through an aperture in the street. On passing the Bastile monument 
they observed a steamboat in a deep cut in the square. It looked as 
if in dock. Five minutes later the steamer had disappeared. 



PARIS. 1§5 

" Where can it have gone ! " cried Mrs. Maler. 

" I saw it here not two minutes ago ! " added Annie. 

" It is a mystery ? Can a steamer disappear in broad day ? " 

" I niver did seen no country like dis ere ! " put in Teteto. 

Here the Count came up and joined them. Teteto demanded, 
"Do der debbel lib a-heree ? Do he cum gobbel up steamer 'fore yer 
eye wen yer arn't a-lookin' ? " 

The Count explained that here steamers enter the underground 
canal which they navigate under the streets of Paris. " Know'd 
gophir an' fox t' liab holes ; nebber know t'steamers t' run in thur 
holes afore ! " said Teteto. 

Turning back west they soon arrived at the Hotel de Ville (City 
Hall), the usual rallying place of revolt, burned by the Commune in 
1870, but now rebuilt new and grand; tiien to the tower of St. 
Jacques, from Avhose lofty top they saw Paris in panorama, the pub- 
lic buildings looming far above the common blocks. 

Then on to the Louvre. Here they left the carriage. The Louvre 
is many museums, it is said that if all its works of art were placed 
in line they would extend fifty-nine miles. They entei-ed the gallery 
of sculptures. 

'* Here," said Dr. Deran, " you see the growth of the fine arts from 
their earliest dawn, a curious spectacle, each age by ilself, art speak- 
ing through four thousand years ; its infancy in the east, its early 
youth in Egypt and Phcenicia, its young manhood in ancient Greece 
and Rome, and its decadence with their decline, and its glorious 
revival from Canova's time. Its gem is seen in a basement where 
the Venus of Milo of an unknown ancient artist, whose charm com- 
bines a goddess and a lovely woman, holds a levee among Venuses 
and Aphrodites, this century's masterpieces, a collection of great 
beauty. 

Teteto heard a man declare, " I carnt see no buty in sich skulpt 
rocks ; they're all naked ! " 

'-All angels is nakid," replied Teteto ; "ye needent juind it unless 
ye liv' in a state of total depravity." 

" I live in the State of Nevada," said the man. 

" AUee same," put in Teteto. 



186 ISfiOO MILES OF SIGnr-SEEINO. 

They took the delightful walk from one end to the other of the 
Tuileries gai'dens, and carae out at the Place de la Concorde. 

" Tlie low Greecian building across the Seine, is the old Palais 
Bourbon, now occupied by the Corps Legislatif," said Dr. Deran. 

" What is this ancient column in the center ? " 

" Column of Luxor, given to France in 1836, by the Pasha of 
Egypt ; it stood at Thebes for four thousand years, now it is upon 
the very spot where stood the bloody guillotine in the Reign of 
Terror ; just here the French heads were cut off. Here died Dan- 
ton, the Girondists, Madame Roland, Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, 
Robespierre, and others.'" 

"I see around this great square, eight statues, and one of them is 
decorated." 

" They are for eight cities. That of Strasburg is hung in mourn- 
ing for loss of that city in the war of 1870." 

Along the river were majij^ men fishing. Teteto asked one 
« What do will you catch ? " 

" The sous that Monsieur will toss to me," replied the man, and he 
did it. 

The drive through the grove avenue of Champs Elysee, to the 
Arc de Triomphe Avas delightful. From the to]) of the Arch one 
hundred and fifty-two feet high, the}^ saw another grand view of 
Paris. 

They paused at the I'alace of Industrie to visit the Salon. In 
the vast display of new pictures Annie admired many but could 
not decide which she preferred. She asked, " What is a good 
picture ? " 

Doctor Deran gave this wise reply ; it is doubtful if it can be ex- 
celled as a real definition : 

"There are so many and so varying schools of 25ainting that but 
one true test exists: a 2>icture is good if it continues to please the 
owner and his friends ; better if it pleases a large number of persons, 
and best if it j^leases everybody." 

" But are not all good jjaintings made by set and arbitrary rules ? " 

"No. Paintings vary so much that a connoisseur knows the work 
of different men as he knows handwritings." 



TN PARIS. 187 

Teteto saw t]ie j)icture of a monkey that resembled himself. lie 
asked, " ^Vin't dat er foine pictee ? Finoe art. see ! Artfle artist." 

"The artist must have been verj' artful to get it hung at all. 
Don' t 3'ou see that nobody looks at it ? " 

As they wei"e walking in the pretty promenade of Champs Elysees 
an adroit pickpocket of polished manners took Annie's gold Waltham 
watch. She saw the act. Perceiving that he was detected, instead 
of running, he glanced coolly at its face and with a superb air handed 
it back to her with the remark, " I beg j^ardon, Madame, I have no 
watch and I must know the time of day lost I be too late for 
dejeuner. I thank you." This act so amused the crowd that no one 
asked for his arrest. 

Passing the Trocadero, and on to the Champ de Mars, they saw 
the Eifel tower ^jiercing the sky a thousand feet. From its top they 
were enjoying the grand view of this immense hive of human beings, 
when they saw what they could not have yet perceived from the 
ground, that a thunder shower was rapidly coming. They hastened 
to arrive at the Invalides and to have its cover from the rain ; but 
it caught them. " O my ! How the lightnin' thunders ! " cried 
Teteto, " an' how orfle de thundershine shinee ! " for the lightning 
did indeed glare and the thunder crashed like the thunder of these 
old Invalides guns when they used to announce the victories of Na- 
poleon. The Church of the Invalides is NajDoleon's tomb. Under 
its lofty dome ha sleeps in a crypt of Finland granite, the marble all 
around is polished to the utmost luster, the apostles in the dome one 
hundred and sixty iVet above the tomb look down through the faint 
blueish light that adds to the solemnity of this grand tomb. Below 
the floor and balustrade you look down into the twenty feet depth 
of the crypt which is thirty-six feet in diameter. 

Annie's impressions of France were various, from pale pink to 
bright scarlet. 

" What can you tell us of Paris'?" asked Annie. 

Madame Deran replied, " It is first mentioned in Caesar's Commen- 
taries as Lutetia, of mud huts. In the sixth century it became the 
capital of Clovis. In the eighteenth century the old ramparts be- 
came the interior boulevards. Napoleon I embellished it. But as 



1S8 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

late as 1834, gutters ran in the middle of the streets, house drainage 
was little, oil lamps hung over the best streets, and few pavements ex- 
isted. Under NajDoleon III (1852-1870), many old houses were 
removed, and great new streets made. The German's siege of Paris, 
from Sept. 19, 1870 till Jan. 28, 1871, made less damage than ex- 
pected, but, March 18, 1871, the Commune took possession, and in 
May, while the French army were suppressing them, these rioters de- 
stroyed with fire many chief buildings, public and private. Nearly 
all of them except the Tuileries and St. Cloud, have been restored. 

Twenty-eight fine bridges span the Seine. The building stone is 
a light colored limestone, rather soft, easily carved, and it hardens on 
exposure to light. Many a house is built around four sides of a 
square, each lloor being a separate house, and all reached by one 
staircase. The gardens of the Tuileries and Champs Elysees, and 
St. Cloud, are very fine wooded j^arks with many fine decorations. 
Place de la Concorde is a great open square connecting them. It 
has elegant buildings on two sides. The places Bastile and Yen- 
dome, contain tall columns, the latter made from cannon taken in 
Avar by the first Napoleon. The Arc de Triomphe in the west, was 
begun by Napoleon in 1806, and finished in 1836. It is one hun- 
dred and fifty-two feet high, and one hundred and thirty-seven feet 
wide. Several great streets radiate like a star from it. Adjoining 
the Tuileries grounds, stands the magnificent Louvre, an immense 
aggregate of imposing buildings filled with works of art. Paris is 
very rich in fine arts, the palace of the Beaux-arts, Luxembourg, the 
Hotel Cluny, the Gobelin's tapestry factory, the Sevres porcelain fac- 
tory, the annual Salon, and many others. . 

Paris has above sixty churches, the grandest is Notre Dame. The 
Pantheon, the Madelaine, and several others are interesting. St. 
Roch is noted for its fine sacred music. Paris contains many liter- 
ary institutions, its Bibliotheque is the largest library in the world,, 
its Sorbonne, College of France, Ecole Poly technique, and school of 
Ai'ts et Metiers, are all famous. Its charities are enormous. It has 
many palaces. But it is time to start, so I cannot mention more at 
present." 

The great dry goods stores in Paris are not equal in extent to 



PARIS. 189 

some of those in America, many of the clerks do not speak English. 
Germans often speak good American but it does not seem to be a 
Frenchman's best point. Teteto wanted a pair of cheap gloves 
worth fifty cents. At the Bonne Marche behind tlie glove counter 
he saw several smiling young women whose bright eyes were dis- 
concerting. 

"Are the gloves for Monsieur?" spoke the suave French voice. 

<'Yis." 

" Will Monsieur please sit before the counter? " 

He took the high stool in agitation, his head on a level with hers. 
Purringly she asked, " Will Monsieur tell me his number ?" Like 
most men he did not know that gloves are numbered. Then she 
daintily raised his hand, the spot of ink on it looked to him very big, 
he wished he had a chance to wash that hand. She held his hand 
by the finger tips to see the form of glove required, he feared she 
would kiss it. Then the same pretty tone asked, " What color would 
please you ? " 

" Ashez uv liliz." 

"O, Monsieur, do not you meestik? Ees et zee ashee de rosee?" 

"Yis. That'll do." 

" Vat ees tattletoo means ? " 

" I wantee red, blue ; any colors, jis watter hap'n t' hav'." 

She softly took the hand again m hers, looked into his face with a 
French smile. Teteto began to think this a tender affair. She car- 
essingly inserted his fingers, with glances and little chirrups of speech 
she buttoned and smoothed the glove with a gentle pat. He valued 
that pat at the price of twenty pairs of gloves. He was recovering 
his self possession. 

*' Would he have the other glove put on ? " Yes, he would. He 
felt by that time that he would like to sit there forever and buy 
gloves and have her put them on : but he was half-blood Irish and 
Irishmen love the w^omen. When he had gone, with slight elevation 
of eyebrows she said, " Va ! " He had paid twice their value for 
those gloves. 

At the famous Observatory a distinguished professor received them 
politely and showed them how the heavens are observed. Said he, 
" By looking through this groat telescoi)e you may see Venus." 



190 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" Let me look, quick ! I want to see how she is dressed ! " cried 
Maler. 

They heard the exquisite saci*ed music at St. Roch ; it was low, 
sweet and stirred the tenderest sense of tranquil beauty. The sermon 
put Teteto to sleejj ; he could sleep best under a sermon. 

After morning service the boulevards and parks were thronged, so 
were the places of amusement, and thousands went to Versailles, 
where in front of the grand Palace Teteto saw a sea of upturned 
faces watching the play of the large fountains. This spectacle al- 
Avays draws a throng. The many rooms richly adorned with marble, 
bronze and fresco, with the thousands of paintings, the elegant mosaic 
floors, and all the marvelous brilliancy of art and taste in the palace, 
the elegant bowers and walks and avenues in the grounds, the long 
lines of statuary, and the evident enjoyment of the hundred thousand 
people then walking, gossiping, strolling among the groves and fount- 
ains and halls, the gay costumes, the smiling faces, the general asj^ect 
of i^leasure, the tone and spirit of the occasion, the charming beauty 
of the renowned old place, all conspired to render the occasion one 
to long remember. 

With Annie's party were several j^ersons of different nations. 
They had agreed to observe the general fit and fitness of the dress of 
persons from different countries. On the way back each reported 
result. It was agreed that the American ladies were better fitted 
and carried their clothes in the best style. It is not at church and on 
the street that the French ladies wear their best. Except at balls, 
dinner, and opera they dress no better than Boston Avomen ; not so 
well as those of some of our western cities. 

On all fine Sundays, Parisians like to make excursions to the 
country, to dine on the gi'ass, to sing in little quartettes of friends, to 
pass the day as merrily as birds, but on week days they are hard 
workers. As they returned along a fine boulevard in Paris, they 
were exclaiming, " How beautiful ! How rich is Paris." But when 
the carriage passed through an eastern street, away from the fine 
boulevard, they were soon exclaiming, '■' How very poor ! What 
sights of poverty ! " Paris usually keeps its beggars out of sight, 
while in most of Eurojie they are conspicuous. They do not annoy a 
traveler as in England and Italy, but they exist. 



PA HIS. 191 

Rare and queer is this cemetery of Pere la Chaise. The lots are 
narrow and small, but crowded with monuments, many of these 
loaded with flowers and immortelles. Cards are seen left at tombs 
with corner turned down to signify a jiersonal call. In one part are 
tombs of famous men. In another, poor people for whom no 
lot is bought or rented, are buried in a common trench, and in five 
years the bones are removed to the Catecorabs Tinder Paris and the 
ground again used for trench burials. But a lot may be rented for 
a small sum for ten years, or for a larger but still moderate price 
held "in perpetuity." As Annie was Avandering among the beauti- 
ful tombs, the guide called to her, " Come and see where sleeps a 
marshal of the empire ! " Descending a steep place with difliculty 
she came to a simple grave. A little iron fence guarded it from in- 
trusion, the ivy twined among the iron rods, the dew from their blos- 
soms dropped tears upon the green sod that covers him who living 
was Marshal Michel Ney, who won even from Naj)oleon, the proud 
title " Bravest of the Brave." 

" Now we will dine at the Cafe. A French dinner is a reunion 
of friends, Avhere is as much talking as eating, it should yield all the 
pleasure that is possible. It should be a sumptuous banquet, adorned 
with floAvers and beautiful women, and surrounded by mirrors, stat- 
ues and pictures. " Animals feed, man eats, and should know how 
to eat,' " said Doctor Deran. 

They took a snow white table near a window where they could 
enjoy the sight of the promenading on the Boulevard. The Doctor 
ordered the dinner ; soup, carp a la Chambord, capon with Perigord 
trufiles, a pheasant a la St. Alliance, asparagus with sauce a la oma- 
zome, ortulans a la Provenyale, meringues a la vanille, and Brie 
cheese and a choice wine. " You sliall have a dinner whose fra- 
grance will remain in your memory," he said. " Good ! I'se longin' 
fur de fried pork ob Nevada; noAV I'se take ham an' eggs," said Te- 
teto. But the Doctor ordered him away, saying, " A being Avho eats 
merely to live is base, and next to a good dinner is good company 
there." 

" You esteem good food of great importance? " 

" This is a good axiom, — ' The fate of a nation depends on how 
they are fed.' ' 



192 13,000 MILES OF SIGH'I'-SEEING. 

Teteto left saying, "I eats more simplicity." The dinner was 
ready just as the street lamps began to twinkle. At the table were 
French ladies, whose joyous eyes sj^arkled a welcome, " and the 
fruits and ices gave color to the gay scene." The lively talk, in 
pleasant tones, for well modulated is the French woman's deep and 
sympathetic voice, in which harmony is cultivated, and it exerts mag- 
netic influence. Woman's voice sometimes is a head voice ; in 
French women it is a chest voice. They were so civil, so kind, that 
it seemed to Annie as if they had always known and loved her, — so 
grateful is cordial kindness. Each one said something pleasant to 
her. Blessed be politeness, it makes the way of life to bloom like 
the roses of Paradise. The French, like to get the best out of life 
by making it smooth and jjleasant. Their motto that one cannot be 
too jDolite, brings them rich returns. The French woman is charm- 
ing, " The simple act of passing a cup of tea is accomj^anied with 
a look and gesture that is irresistible." Her voice is soft and win- 
ning in j^rivate life, her cultivation modulates it, and it is not in high 
key. She has and she uses grace of movement, carriage and gesture 
that give her a general charm. She converses without mere talking ; 
a woman, plain at first sight, may, after half an hour of conversation, 
ajipear handsome. The French woman may be of small features and 
petit figure, with eyes of a deep brown or a sparkling black. She 
has small hands and feet. In the soft transparent olive of her 
cheek, one may detect the shade of a blush. Her long eyelashes 
sweep the velvet skin beneath. About the corners of her mouth 
lurks the softest touch of a bewitching smile. Ah, staid old cavalier, 
that passeth by with stately tread ; why do thine eyes turn longingly 
to meet the half-raised orbs that droj) again with a glance of melt- 
ing tenderness? 

As the dinner progressed, course after course, through one hun- 
dred minutes, the Count's soul expanded, he was brilliant, witty, flat- 
tering. At the dinner he told the widow that he loved her. A 
dozen persons heard the declaration, but no one regarded it as at all 
out of place. But the blushing Mrs. Maler begged him to desist. 
Then they sauntered along the Boulevard, and found themselves and 
a\\ the Avorld delightful. At Cafe ISTepolitain they took seats at one 




EIFEL TOWER, PAEIS. 




CIllKCH OF NOTRE D\MK. TAIilS. 




Clonier of rhe Tiiileries. with the Pont Koyal. 




TUXLERIES GARDEN, PARIS. 




PALACES OF THE TUILEKIES AND THE LOUVRE, PARIS. 




HISTORICAL MUSEUM, MOEAT, SWITZEKLANI). 




GRAND ROCK TTTNNEL, LAKE ROURGET. 



PARIS. 209 

of the little tables on tbe sidewalk, and sipped fragrant black coffee 
and were happy. Teteto came along and declared, " Th' wimin uv 
dis villig' am de barnsumist in all tbe de world !" 

" How are they in America and England ? " asked tbe Count. 

" Allee samee," was his ready answer. 

Tbe pleasant party took Annie and Mrs. Maler to tbe Opera, that 
unequaled theater, begun in 1861, finished in 1874, at a cost of 46,- 
000,000 francs (including tbe site). 

*' "What a blaze of glory ! " Annie exclaimed, at sight of the great 
staircase, where fifty persons can stand abreast. 

Mrs. Maler gazed in wonder upon the marvelous magnificence. 
«Is any one country rich enough to afford this glory?" she asked. 

" The Government aids in its support. It is lavishly adorned with 
great richness of material. This fine green granite is from Sweden, 
this red granite from Scotland, tbe yellow and tbe white marble from 
Italy, the red porphyry from Finland, and other rich stones are from 
France and Spain. These wonderful corridors and saloons are of 
finest workmanship," said Dr. Deran. 

*• I did not believe the world held anything so luxuriantly beauti- 
ful!" 

" This excessive splendor of finish and decoration, the brilliant and 
the lovely in fine art, you may so jDhotograj^b on your mind as to re- 
tain its image for years, and so ever enjoy it. The entire range of 
human art has been used to make this lovely temple complete." 

Just then upon tbe stage a love-smitten Faust in the garden scene 
threw himself at Marguerite's feet, carohng " Laisse moi contempler 
tou visage" (let me contemplate thy face), and sympathy throbbed 
in tbe Gallic audience, and when Mai-guerite, in supreme happiness, 
held her lover in her arras and cried, "Pour toi je veux mourir" 
(for thee I would die), an electric shock ran through the spectators, 
and they shouted, " Bravo," with tears in their eyes. 

Tbe scene so impressed Teteto that be confessed that once he, too, 
loved a girl. 

'* Did she return your love ? " asked Annie. 

" !N"o ! She kep' it," was the uncertain reply. 

Louis XVI was king eighteen years, from 1774 to 1792. Napo- 
14 



210 IS, 000 MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

leon came into i)ower by force, December 25, 1799, as First Consul, 
became Emperor May 18, 1804, was overthrown in March, 1814, re- 
turned in March, 1815, and was crushed in June, 1815. Then Louis 
XVIII reii^ned till 1824, and then Charles X till driven away in July 
1830. The Bourbons did not suit the French, they had come back 
loaded with debts, and with old nobility who assumed to control 
France. Their incapacity, lack of good faith, and unstatesmanlike 
conduct ruined them. The revolution of 1330 made Louis Philippe 
king. But France felt too much repressed, the revolution of 1848 
made it a republic till the ursurpation of Louis Napoleon of Decem- 
ber 2, 1851, and he became Emperor a year later. He surrendered 
to the Germans at Sedan, September 2, 1870, and the republic was 
proclaimed September 4, but it was not wholly in power until the 
Commune was crushed in May, 1871. The chamber of deputies are 
chosen by popular vote of the jieople, the senators are elected by 
delegates from various councils and the deputies. The president is 
named for seven years but may not hold so long. Every man 
twenty-one years old votes in public, and the votes are counted in 
public. 

Teteto had an argument with a Boulangist, he spoke of him as 
" the jinral 't combs canon balls outen his hair," and added, " Th' 
Bony partee is the smallest party in France." 

Through the gentle rolling champaign country they sped to Fon- 
tainbleau, spent hours of pleasure in its old forest and in admiring 
some of its nine hundred rooms, looked at the table on which Na- 
poleon signed his abdication, April 6, 1815, and at his apartments 
now kept just as he left them, and then oji via pretty Salmis, where 
they rode for two hours to view the scenery, and then arrived in 
time to see the moon rising, over Neuchatl, as it lifted its head above 
the distant Bernese Alps. They had half an hour at Morat's old 
Museum, then whirled on via pretty Friberg, and caught a fine 
view of Lake Geneva from Lausanne. It was a surj^rise to see that 
its waters were of a deep blueish green. At Geneva they felt almost 
at home, so many times they had read of its great part in the world's 
movements. Beyond Geneva they deflected to the east to see the 
wonderful mountain scenery of Chamouni ; found the vale hot, dry,. 



ON TO ITALY. 2,11 

with an abimdance of snow and ice in sight, and turned to Savoy, 
where they saw nut-brown women hoeing crops, driving hogs or 
cows and doing other work that pievents beauty. The soil is poor, the 
country standing up edgewise, the rocks proudly raising their rough 
heads, the aspect sullen, and the water roai'ed and rushed along its 
rocky bed. Wilder and narrower was the gorge, nearer and bleaker 
rose the mountains, steeper the ascent, keener and crisper the air of 
night. The valleys were small, the train rushed through rock cuts, 
then jm])etuous torrents poured down precipices and foamed and 
thundered, the vine no longer clung to the hillsides, fair sunn}' 
France, of plains, glades and gentle acclivities, had yielded to Savoy's 
crags upon Avliich snow, no longer skulking behind distant peaks, 
now stood boldly out. From brows of bold cliffs streamlets leaped 
in silver recklessness hundreds of feet, falling in feathery foam ; a 
half dozen such cascades in half that number of miles. In the great 
Mt. Cenis tunnel they passed througli the mountain, more than seven 
miles of solid rock, — a great hole bored through this barrier between 
France and Italy, — and emerged in Piedmont just as the morning sun 
Avas rising. The great plain of northern Italy, with the Po in its 
center, extends, from these Cottian Alps, away east till it strikes the 
distant Adriatic. Its west is Piedmont, its center and east is Lom- 
bardy and the Venitian soil. It is the home of a brave, thrifty 
people. Its industries are great, its soil produces the chestnut, the 
mulberry, the fig, and rice, corn, grain and many other products. 
The green rice fields are pretty, the mulberry orchards are stripped 
of leaves by the silk worm, for this is the land of raw silk. 



VIII 

ITALf. 

Near Turin Mrs. Maler exclaimed, "Isn't that just splendid !" 
It was a long avenue bordered on each side by the rose trained 
into trees and all blushing their brightest tints of glory. After a 
good breakfast and a ride of three hours in Turin during which they 



212 13,000 MILES OF SIOnT-SEEING. 

often left the carriage, they returned to early lunch and there com- 
pared their impressions of the handsome city. 

" It is famed for its fine squares," said the guide. 

" What a beautiful church is San Filippo ! " 

" The statue of Cavour is part white and j^art black," 

" Yes ; that gives it an odd look." 

" The library is immense." 

" It has 120,000 volumes." 

" I never saw a j^icture so exquisitely lovely as that painted porce- 
lain figure of the girl. Is it celebrated?" 

" It seems to have escaped American notice ; but it is of rare 
beauty, I do not know how far its fame has gone." 

" Those magnificent adornments above and behind the altar in an 
apartment of a church seem to be very superb." 

" They are of great magnificence." 

" What is the finest view to be had here ? " 

" I will take you to the height of La Superga, where you will see 
all Piedmont, from Alps to sea, at your feet." 

" O, let us see it at once." 

They ascended La Superga by the steel railway, and a most superb 
scene was before their astonished eyes. There in mighty panorama 
lay great Piedmont like an enormous painting. Objects at great dis- 
tance, seen through this Italian air, seemed but a short distance 
away. All around from the high Al^is, Mt. liosa and the Dom in 
the north, thence along the highest Pennine Alps to Mt. Blanc, the 
highest point of Europe ; then the whole line of the Cottian Alps and 
the Maratime Alps, they could take in at a glance. Then below 
them lay the Po, stretched like a great thread of silver away across 
the great landsca2:)e, seeming to bind Piedmont to Lombardy in the 
east. Farms, villas, woods, rocks, many momitains and many streams 
made the scene variegated. Fertility of the vales made it brilliant. 

" And this is Italy ! What kind of people inhabit so lovely a 
spot?" 

" The Piedmontese are liberty-loving and progressive." 

" And comfortable ? " 

"They are sober and generally Avell off." 



72V PIEDMONT. ^IS 

As they were passing through a new street Annie exclaimed, " Is 
it i)ossible that we are in Italy ? " 

" What do you mean ? " 

" Here is a steam engine driving an enormous stone cylinder over 
a thick layer of stones, and crushing them level into the ground, 
thus forming' a solid bottom for a street. I thought only America 
does such enterprising things. 

" You will find that Turin is part of awakened Italy." 

" We hear but little of Turin ; but if this city existed in England 
or America how celebrated it Avould be ! " 

The room where they took their lunch was decorated like a con- 
servatory, thrifty plants and fragrant flowers, and then the little 
tables under the trees in sj^ots which twining vines inclosed, forming 
perfect little arbors, and they breakfasted to the music of a sweet 
singer, a girl of ten years, who, perched on a piazza, threw down to 
them kisses and glee. Teteto remarked, " She sings like a Eyetalun 
Belladonna." 

The fact that Mt. Blanc seemed so near, the country in that direc- 
tion so charming, the distant Alps apj^eared so much lower than 
they are, had given Annie a new idea. 

"We will cross the Alps where Napoleon crossed in 1800." 

" Impossible ! " 

" We will try." 

" And give up our Italian trip ? " 

" No ; we will simply cross to the Rhone, then follow it up and 
come into Italy again through the Simplon Pass." 

« Admirable ! " 

In half an hour they were on the way. Leaving the rail beyond 
Locano, they took carriage to Aosta, whose old Roman walls and 
towers they soon passed. The scenery was soft and j^retty ; wal- 
nuts, chestnuts, vines and corn were thriving ; the view of the pyra- 
mid mountain, Grivola, reminded them of Egyptian pictures. The 
road soon ascended in long windings. At St. Oyen they left the last 
cultivation and entered nature's wilds. " Nebber riz in de wo'l' ha'f 
s' fas' afore ! " said Teteto, as they zigzaged up the path from St. 
Remy to the Hospice of St. Bernard, where a monk received them 



214 13,000 MILES OF SIGnT-SEETNG. 

into a room in one of the two large buildings and offered them food, 
for they were hungry. A few monks and attendants remain here 
the whole year. In summer many travelers cross here, but in winter 
only few, for then the cold is intense, the snow deep and the dangers 
great. The dogs aid to rescue travelers from snow. The j^lace is 
sustained from gifts and its own revenues ; it makes no charges for 
food or lodging, but receives presents from travelers. "N"ear Bourg 
St. Pierre, they saw the spot where Napoleon with his army, on May 
15-22, 1800, met the worst obstacles, for here is the deej) gorge of 
Valsorey; tlie road is hewn in the rock, 

" This scene is very wild, but it is enchanting," said Annie. 

Very grand was the scenery as they went w]) the Rhone from 
Martigny. The Rhone valley from Martigny to Brieg, averages two 
miles and a half wide. It shows marks of many bad inundations. 
Rains often send rocks and d(5bris in torrents from the mountains to 
devastate the banks, and blocks the current, and causes marshes of 
grass and reeds, beyond which rise masses of bare yellow-gray rock 
Away to the right they left the Matterhorn, from whose sky-piercing 
summit, Hudson, Lord Douglas, Whymper, Hadow and three 
guides, in 18G6, were precij^itated nearly three-fourths of a mile 
(4000 feet) by losing footing, the most frightful fall recorded. It 
made Annie shudder as the guide recounted it. At Brieg, the rail- 
way ends. Annie resolved to see the high glaciers. They took the 
diligence. Just below the Rhone Glacier they crossed a little stream 
dashing wildly on the rocks of the ravine, it was tlie infant Rhone. 
The whole glacier ascends in terraces for about six miles. It is sim- 
ply a great, frozen river. The idea that the high summits are j^ure 
white is error. They are of many shades, it is in many cases ice, 
the ice of years, old and dirty, taking many hues. Biit the specta- 
cle of such utter desolation is appalling. All around they saw ma- 
jestic summits, great mountain heads, stupendous in grandeur, deso- 
late, utterly cheerless. The air was cold, all nature seemed dead, 
masses of ice lay in semblance of a river with rapids, falls, cataracts, 
levels, and swift currents, but all was still, frozen fast in its place. 

Annie inquired if they could cross the mountains to Airolo and so 
reenter Italy by the Ticino. She was told that it could be done. 



MOUNTAIN PERIL. 



215 



Would she wait for a guide? None were just now at hand that could 

go. But she could not wait. Either she must return at once to 

Brieg or lose time. But the diligence was gone, another would not 

stnrt for many hours. What is to be done? They were told it 

would be nine hours to Airolo. It would be twelve before they 

could reach Brieg. "Let's try it for Airolo," said the resolute 

widow. But here they made a great mistake. It was not long till 

there were signs of storm. "It will rain soon!" eaid Annie. It 

was not rain but snow, and then hail that came ! " Whoever heard 

of snow in June!" she exclaimed. But here it was. The storm 

burst with high wind. Night soon closed over them. It was no 

gradual sprinkle or gentle gust, but the snow came in sheets. The 

wind almost swept them from their feet. Then came lightning and 

bold thunderclaps. The lightning lit np a very dismal scene, the 

ghastly snow, the grinning rocks, the awful depths of chasms unseen 

except at the moment of the frightful electric glare, and then again 

filled with unknown depths of inky darkness. 

In this place, winter lasts nearly eight months, even in summer, it 
makes visits, and strangely enough, the lightning then is sometimes 
seen. A few wooded slopes are overtopped by bare pinacles of rock. 
Avalanches are common in winter and spring. 

To converse was impossible, to pause Avas perilous, to pioceed was 
extremely dangerous. They paused under an overhanging rock. But 
the whirling wind drove them away. They went on. They Avere 
soon separated. It was hours later when Mrs. ]\Ialer reached a lit- 
tle habitation. She was met by a man who made an exclamation of 
great surprise. " It ees ecmpossible! It cannot be ! " He took her 
by the arm and he stared in her face to see if she were a living 
person. Then he said, " It is empossible ; but it is true ! " 

He led her into some kind of a shelter where she sank exhausted 
into a seat. He gave her stimulants and exclaimed, "How have yoo 
did tiie eempossible, Madame Maler?" 

She recognized that voice; she saw the Italian Count himself! 
She could only say, "Annie is out in the storm! " 

Seeing Mrs. Maler was safe he left her and rushed away into the 
storm. In an hour lie returned with another man and bringing Te- 



216 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

teto. But they had found no trace of Annie. The Count waited 
only to see that Mrs. Maler was recovering and he went again in 
search of the missing girl. 

" It am all settled," remarked Teteto, 

" Annie is dead ? " 

" Efer she ded or she will be Harry's, for now she go on no can, 
he win race, win Annee allee same I " 

" O you mean that the race is ended ; that after this affair Annie 
will not be able to travel ? " 

" Jis so, alle same." 

Mrs, Maler was now enough rested to observe that she was in a 
singular place. It was not a peasant's hut. It was a strong place. 
The door was of iron and was l)anded and riveted as if great strength 
was required. The apartment Avas large. It was evident that it was 
the entry way to a larger place. iShe heard the hail-storm outside. 
But nothing could penetrate here. The walls were of steel ! She 
walked around the room. She was as securely imprisoned as if in- 
side of a big steam boiler ! Steei was above and all around ; walls, 
roof were steel ! 

Teteto was deeply depressed. He declared, •' Annie is dead ! I 
knows it! On'y las' week we sat 13 at table. It's sure sign, some- 
body die, it be Annie, sure. At that moment the door flew open and 
in walked Annie and the Count. The Widow caught her with wel- 
coming arms. " How 1 wish you would hug me that way," spoke a 
voice and Andy McScot, too, had arrived, and here he ari'ives in this 
story. 

The Count had found Annie where she had sat down to rest, and 
made drowsy by the storm, was just falling asleep ; a sleep from 
which she would never have wakened. But girl athlete as she was, 
she was not exhausted but only very, very weary, but would soon be 
rested. 

It was not long before they all sat down to a good French dinner 
in another building. A French dinner is a wonderful restorer. 
How it might cure American dyspeptics ! 

The Count said, " This place is eenaccessible. Now tell us how 
you all three have got here ? " 



McSCOT & CO:S PLOT. 217 

" Inaccessible ? " 

" We believed so. Yoo arrival deesconcerta." 

" Tell her why," said the Count, and the Scot told. What man 
so full of practical science as a Scot? And who so much uses his 
knowledge ? Andy McScot took his hint from Maxim, he would in- 
vent a flying machine that could drop a ton of dynamite upon the 
head of Russia, he can then dictate to all the world that each one 
shall have his own way and that all persons shall be happy ; he will 
compel them to be joyful ; everybody shall be the happiest man — 
except those whose privileges must be sacrificed to make the newly 
perfectly happy still happier. Nothing mean about McScot. He 
had taken the Count into partnership. They must have a secure re- 
treat where they could construct their machine, else the Czar would 
pounce on it and then — why — exit the new invention and exit 
McScot & Co. hanging. So in what they believed a spot inaccessi- 
ble to any but themselves, they had made a shop where no Russian 
Czar could climb with any 100-ton Krupp gun to blow upon their 
plan. This is why McScot and the Count, men of women-loving 
nations, were disconcerted by the arrival of two of the most charm- 
ing of women. They could, perhaps, trust their secret to them, but 
how about Teteto ? That must be seen to. 

" Here is a bluff within ten steps of this spot, that is half a mile 
sheer descent. Its foot rests on a mass of sharp stones. I will give 
you your weight in gold if you will jump from it at once, Teteto ! " 
said McScot. 

"I'll do it ! Let's have the monee," and Teteto threw off his coat 
and stood ready to jump. 

"I cannot pay you now ; I have not the money here, I will pay in 

Paris." 

" How I gittee me monee ? Can't giv credit dis a-way," said he 
doubtfully, and then on reflection recanted. 

The storm passed away. The moon rose before morning and 
looked down upon a very grand scene. Mrs. Maler, unable to sleep, 
arose and walked out in the frilled night-robe that the count had lent 
her. All was still except the waterfalls. They were singing their 
eternal music. She looked down the awful chasm of which the 



218 13,000 MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

Count had told Teteto. Far, far below, she saw the tops of tall 
trees, an immense distance, directly down, down ; across she saw 
abrupt mountains of rough rock. She walked along the margin and 
saw a deep gorge from which a stream of foam was sliding down 
about 550 feet into a basin that checked it before it joined the waters 
of the great chasm. It was a thrilling sight. She saw a bridge, a 
very narrow one. On it she saw some one, he was coming ! It was 
not light enough to recognize him at once, but she believed it to be 
the Count. She saw another advancing from her direction ! The 
two met on the high, narrow way. Neither would turn back ! They 
were hostile ! They met. She saw a short, sharp contest ! What 
an event at that narrow height over the sloping waterway ! It was 
a quick victory. She saw the first comer thrown off! Saw him 
strike in the water below ! Saw him make a splashing in the small 
torrent. lie was trying to recover himself, trying to save his life. 
The stream was just strong enough to barely carr}^ him along down 
its fatal slojie. lie made a terrible struggle ; but she saw him slide, 
still sliding, nearer to the 550 feet of fall ! Saw him roll over, thrash 
the spray ; it constantly nearly covered him. She saw him hold for 
a moment. She held her breath. Then partly seen he was again 
gliding ! He reached the brink ; he made one final shuddering struggle. 
The fall there was very steejD and foaming. Then she saw the dark 
object quickly slide down the 550 feet, strike the Avater below with 
greater sj^lash, go imder, rise again, cast a look at her and, like a 
good French soldier, make the military salute and then he went 
under forever ! 

All this passed quickly. It so silenced her that she had not even 
screamed. When it was all over she called out, but no one heard ; 
they were all asleej). She did not know just where anyone was 
lodged. How we love a friend when we have just lost him ! The 
strange sierht made Mrs, Maler aware that she loved the Count. 
How noble in him to see her and make the military salute at his final 
plunge. Who but an Italian would have done that ? 

Who could be the slayer? Was it done by the order of the Czar 
of Russia ? Probably. Was Teteto hired to do it ? Perhaps ! What 
a bad world we live in ! Will McScot be able without the Count to 



WIDOW 31 ALEE. 219 

make a machine and drop the kerosene upon the Czar's head ? Per- 
haps not. And the Czar will live and reign! Who wonders at 
revolutions ! 

Daylight came, several persons were astir. Mrs. Maler saw a 
house. She felt herself again widowed; she was unhappy. At 
early dawn, herself still in the Count's fi-illed night robe, she entered 
the house. It was large, commodious. She looked through several 
rooms ; all were empty. She came to a hall. She would look 
into the room beyond ; it might be the Count's favorite room ; just 
where he has often sat. She would just look into it; she will sit in 
his chair. She jiushed the door gently ; it did not yield ; she pushed 
harder; it opened. All seemed still within; the room appeared de- 
serted. What more lonely than the vacated chamber of those whom 
■we love, but who have suddenly departed from us forever ! She 
entered. There rose to his feet — the Count ! She exploded with 
anger, sense of injury, feeling that she had been fooled. 

" What for did you ri-dic-u-lous-ly commit sliding down a moun- 
tain stream ? How very Frenchy ! " 

" Madame, you misteek ; I not French, I Italian ; I live ; I re- 
nounce life ! Never! What mean you?" 

" I saw you killed right afore my eyes ! You fell fightin' onto a 
bridge. With military salute you slid to future fire in splashin' 
water ! There ! " 

" Ah, Madame ! I comprehenda. It was not I ; it was a Billy 
goat. I came dis way, the goat meet me ; we contend. I him from 
the bridge threw. It was he that you saw. He slide down, he turn 
and say hurrr. He turn him over. It was flash of him tail that you 
took for salut militaire." 

" Can it be ?" said she, in a tone of chagrin. 

"Madame, accuse me! I love you! I am your — ," but the buxon 
Widow had fled. 

At breakfast Teteto rendered his opinion on the dynamite project 
thus, " Let thet Czar be. Ef ye doan' let 'im be I'se afert it '11 be 
like I sor a owl ; feel big, fly high, he swoop down onto ole gander. 
Gander he surprizt, owl set clawz into ganderz ribs, gander set he 
teeth onto owlz neck, both flop off de rock into swif water, goose 



220 1^^000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

keej) holt, owl tiy gitawa', owl he drown, gander happy, he swim, 
sq'awk, brag big." 

The Count looked confused, but addressing Mrs. Maler he said, in 
apology, " To vork for love is better than to vork for hate of Russia. 
Will yous give hope eef I desist vroni plots?" 

The Widow blushed deeply and said, " Wait." 

They returned to Brieg and went through the Simplon Pass, 
through the Ravine of Gondo^ one of the grandest and wildest 
gorges of the Alps. Narrower and deeper became the way step by 
step till smooth and immense walls overhung the road, and the 
brawling Doveria was roaring in its white, rough bed. A huge mass 
of rock had fallen, but the line pierces it for 735 feet. Emerging 
from this gallery they saw a waterfall wliich is crossed by a slender 
bridge. On both sides the rock towers to the dizzy height of about 
2000 feet. The somber mouth of the gallery forms striking contrast 
to the white sjDray of the cascade. A beautiful glacier (the Bodner) 
was seen beyond the ravine. This magnificent Alpine scene is on 
the road built by Napoleon I. Soon after, five ^^eaked Mt. Rosa, 
highest on the Alps after Mt. Blanc, looked down upon them through 
the Yalle d' Anzasca. 

Italy is almost exactly double the size of Maine, New Hampshire 
and Vermont (about 110,000 square miles). The most of the north 
is one great plain, with the Alps to its north and west, and Alps and 
Appenines on the south. Italy produces silk, mulberry, wheat, rice, 
figs, melons, oranges, lemons, many kinds of nuts and some cotton. 
It was many states, but they are all now iinited as the kingdom. 

Venice, romantic and beautiful in nature and art, garden of the 
sea, flower bed of delight, requires moonlight or sunshine to show its 
best loveliness. The sun was smiling as Annie, tastefully dressed, 
allowed the doves on St. Mark's square to alight on her arms and 
shoulders and gracefully pick wheat from her hands. The passing 
spectators admired ; Italians resjject beauty. Mrs. Maler called for 
horses to ride, " There are but four horses in Venice," replied the 
guide. 

" Get those four." 

« They are old." 



GLORIES OF VENICE. 221 

" Nevei" mind that, but get them." 

" They have already traveled from Greece to Rome, then to Con- 
stantinople, thence to Venice, from here to Paris, and are now 
hitched over the great entrance of St. Mark's." 
"Dead?" 

" As dead as dead can be ; they are of bronze and thousands of 
years old." 

Venice is a city of palaces on the sea, of grand old churches and 
galleries filled with masterpieces of renowned artists. It has in its 
history much that is romantic and glorious. Here is fine old archi- 
tecture. Rising vision-like from the sea, it is fascinating. It was 
time for highest tides, and when Annie saw the grand place of St. 
Mark's partly flooded, each palace doubled by reflection in that 
" green pavement which every breeze breaks into new fantasies of 
rich tesselation," it was marvelously beautiful. 

St. Mark's cathedral is finished in exquisite beauty. Near it stands 
a famous dial, splendid in azure and gold ; and a bell tower with an 
angel said to be 30 feet high. 

As, by gondola, they skimmed the water of the Grand Canal by 
moonlight, they exclaimed — " How very romantic. The ravages of 
time on these marble walls are not visible in this light." 

" Venice seems to rise from the ocean like a golden city paved 
with emeralds." 

" Wonderfully her lights are multiplied by reflection from the rip- 
pUng waves !" 

" The turrets and pinnacles glitter like constellations in the sky ! " 

" Did you ever see the like ? " 

" I'se nebber did 'cept w'en I git a blow in de eye," replied Teteto. 

" What immense bridge is this over our heads ? " 

" The Rialto ; it is 72 feet wide, consists of one span of 91 feet and 
is 24 feet above the water, Madame." 

" What is this before us ? " 

" It is a crowd of bathers, Senorina." 

" What are they doing?" 

" Bathing in this canal." 

" So they are ; men, boys and women ! " 



222 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" Almost naked ! " 

" They mean no harm." 

" And all these Avine shops have the Virgin enthroned in a blaze 
of crimson lamps ! " 

"That is done to attract tlie gondoliers to spend their money." 

In the evening the square, San Marco was crowded with gaily 
dressed people and officers, some promenading others seated in the 
piazza, sipping tea, coffee and wine, and enjoying the sight of the 
flirting, and hearing the music of a band. Around four sides of the 
square this piazza extends. It is brilliantly lighted and the windows 
are full of rich goods for sale. 

Inside of St. Mark's are vast treasures of art and arts. Two ala- 
baster columns from Solomon's Temple, wonderful carvings, superb 
statues, masterpieces of painting, mosaics and other rich objects of 
many ages and many lands adorn it. It has a mosaic floor, very old, 
now uneven, and mosaics are on its walls and ceilings. All these 
are wonders. In the mosaic of Mary's genealogy, the figures of life- 
size, when seen from the giand front entrance in dim light, resemble 
monkeys up a tree. 

The Doges' Palace is magnificent in architecture, gilding, carving 
and other decorations and suj^erb in jjaintings by masters. 

They crossed the Bridge of Sighs, visited the dungeons, and the 
Cicerone, without notice, shut them in one of the worst, as Lord 
Byron once had himself shut for 24 hours in the same cell. Annie 
was startled, the Widow screamed and Teteto said bad words. But 
the door was quickly reopened, it was the man's joke. 

The Bridge of Sighs is not connected with any romance, it merely 
connects the law courts and prison for common offenders. Contrary 
to general opinion, Venice has many streets. Each house opens to 
a street or alley, one can walk all over the place. The ways are 
very narrow. Lovers can whisper across from window to window. 
Shop fronts are open, so the street seems like a long corrider of an 
exposition. 

Of pictures and other treasures of art there seemed no end, they 
are in many churches and palaces and at the Academy of Art. 

Flying on they stopped an hour to see Bologna and its two lean- 



THE COUNT'S LOVE-MAKING. 228 

ing towers, one 256 feet, the other 130 feet high, and its new parts, 
well paved and spacious, and old part of narrow, crooked and dirty- 
streets. 

When the train was about to start for Florence, Annie took a 
seat. Others came in and Mrs. Maler in her haste seated herself 
alone in another compartment. Just then the Count came. His 
eyes blazed with pleasure as he saw Mrs. Maler and with warmth he 
shook her hand delicately. " I am deligh, ver glad, troo happy 
yous to meet," said he, " may I sit wif yous." 

Mrs. Maler gave him affable welcome. The train started. They 
were being whirled over the pretty scenes near Florence, when the 
Count, who for half an hour had been almost silent, succeeded in 
capturing the Widow's small hand and then suavely said, — 

" Madame, I am desolated ! " 

The Widow looked gratified. He added, — 

" I go Venice, you to find, I learn you vos gone ; I valk by a 
canale, I look down in de cold vater, I me shudder, I vish trow me 
een zat vater — " 

"Oh! Sir!" 

" Eet vas dat you vos gone — " 

" Don't do it, now don't ! " 

" Hear a me ; I visht — " 

" O, sir, I can't hear it ! " 

« I visht I vas—" 

« Don't say it ! " 

« — Een a paradise of good dinners wid yoo." 

" O, only that ! " 

" Wif goot music an' love an' yoo." 

"Why, Sir!" 

" On le Atlantic steamvapeur I saw yoo, I yoo admire, I yoo ap- 
proach, at yoor firs' glanz I see m us attraction mutuel, eet vas magit 
attrac', ve vos spirits kintred." 

" O, dear Signor, Signor, you are too kind to say it." 

"Ah, Madame ; et yoo vos too charmant, too delireoos (delicious): 
behold le emotions of my soul ! " 

At these remarks the Widow's usually plain face looked all bright, 



224 ISfiOO MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

bewitching, shining out of a coquetish little brown veil, for what 
woman does not become beautiful under the power of active, present 
love that makes itself known. 

" Yoor leedle hanz is colt, mine is hot, I yoors vil varm," and he 
took them both in his own. 

"What a little goose I am!" said the Widow. The cars made so 
much noise that the Count heard wrong and rejilied, — 

" I tinks zo, I jileefs eet, we gree 'nteerlee," which reply nettled 
the Widow. She had settled back in her seat, the very picture of 
happy delight, now she erected herself and replied, — 

" Suppose — that my heart sinks and fails me for fear I don't love 
you ? " 

The Count rose to his feet, he laid his hand impressively upon his 
diaphragm, he put on a very impressive look and said, — 

" Behold me ! I declar' zat I love — le Diable ! " The last two 
words were a digression caused by a sudden shock as the train ran 
over an unlucky goat, and the next moment it entered the station at 
Florence, and all was bustle, which stojjped love making. But the 
Count was able to add, " I me fear you haf no heart, so I gif yoo 
mine." 

" I bid you welcome to Florence," spoke a manly voice. It was 
Mr. Gifford, American Consul, an old friend of Annie's. It was 
pleasant to hear a home voice and see a home face. 

The Consul presented the Count Rocco Corvo as if he and Annie 
had never met. 

" Why, Sir, are you a real Count ? " 

" I haf ve honor to be, if yoo please.". 

" And we have called you Mister ? " 

This conversation startled and j^leased the Widow. She had 
been wooed by a real Count ! She was so delighted that her eyes 
sparkled and the carmine of her cheeks became richer and she gave 
the Count her sweetest and most winning smile. She asked, — 

*' Where do you live, my dear Count ? " 

" Here in Florence, Madame." 

" Keep house ? " 

" Yees, Madame, I lif in my palace, Callee." 




CHATILLOX CASTX^K, LAKE liOUKOET, FRANCE. 




CASCADE BELOW FORT ESSEILEOX. 







BRIDGE OF CAMBUSCUKA. 




SOUliCE OF THE RIVER MSGX, FRANCE. 







J.146^eyi _^ ^^=^ ^^ - 



HOSPICE OF ST. BERXARD, HIGH AI.PS. 










THE MATTEKIIOUN, HIGH ALPS. 




ALPINE SHEPHERDS. 



IN FLORENCE. 241 

The Widow could not forbear throwing up her hands in surjDrise. 
The gesture pleased him ; he saw in it that she was really interested 
in him. He explained that he occupied only two small rooms, that 
he was compelled to rent all the rest of his palace in order to subsist, 
all but the picture gallery, which was closed. This statement might 
have cooled the ardor of most title aspiring women, but it did not 
seem to have that effect upon the genial Widow Maler. She was at 
one moment overflowing with exuberance and the next instant she 
seemed in deep thought. They had not been long at their hotel and 
she had not found a good opportunity to tell Annie of her great 
fortune when she received a note from the Count requesting her utter 
silence on the delicate subject of his love. 

Florence, " Brightest star of star-bi'ight Italy," was radiant in June 
beauty of fields and gardens and glorious in wealth of flowers as 
well as in wonderful treasures of marvelous art. In palaces it ex- 
cels all other cities, and the Tuscans are charming and genial. Its 
pretty situation, its treasures of art, architecture and painting and 
its manufactures, give Florence great celebrity. 

In the Piazza Loggia de' Lanzi for hours stood hundreds of men 
talking in deep Tuscan tones. They wore long cloaks lined with 
green, thrown over one shoulder, and they looked as if they had just 
stepped out of old pictures. Here once the crowd, excited by 
Savonarola, made bonfire of many pretty things, and here later was 
Savonarola hanged and burnt, while his neighbor, A. Vespucci, was 
exploring America's shores, A. D. 1498. 

Of palaces " The fa9ade of the Pitti is 460 feet in extent, three 
stories high in the center, each story 40 feet in height, and the im- 
mense windows of each are 24 feet apart from center to center. . . . 
Add to this the boldest rustication all over the fa9ade, and cornices 
of simple but bold outline. There is no palace in Europe to com- 
pare to it for grandeur, though many may surpass it in elegance." — 
J^urgtcson. 

" Ponte-Vecchio — that bridge which is covered with the shops of 
Jewelers and Goldsmiths — is a most enchanting feature of the 
scene. The space of one house, in the center, being left open, the 
view beyond is shown as in a frame ; and that precious glimpse of 
sky and water and rich buildings, shining so quietly among the hud- 
dled roofs and gables on the bridge, is exquisite." — Dickens. 

16 



242 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" The Ponte Vecchio, least like other bridges in the world, laden 
with the same quaint shops, where our Spirit remembers lingering a 
little." — Roniola. 

Dante's house has been renovated till every original stone is gone. 

"The view from San Miniato is best seen towards sunset. From 
an eminence, studded by noble cypresses, the Arno meets the eye, 
reflecting in its tranquil bosom a succession of terraces and bridges, 
edged by imj)(»sing streets and palaces, above which are seen the 
stately Cathedral, the church of Santa Croce, acd the picturesque 
tower of the Palazzo Vecchio, while innumerable other towers, of les- 
ser fame and altitude, crown the distant parts of the city, and the 
banks of the river, which at length — its sinuous stream bathed in 
liquid gold — is lost sight of amidst the rich carpet of a vast and 
luxuriant plain, bounded by lofty Apennines. Directly opposite 
rises the classical height of Fiesole, its sides covered with inter- 
mingled rocks and woods, from amidst which sparkle innumerable 
villages and villas," — J. S. Hartford. 

That day and the next, the Count did not appear. He wrote to 
inform the widow that he was called from the city by matters of ur- 
gency. 

The church of Santa Croce, the " Westminster Abbey of Italy," 
is vast and has pretty stained glass. Around it are tombs of great 
Italians, including Michel Angelo and Galileo, besides many noted 
only for their fine tombs. 

So animated is the expression of Donatelli's St. Mark, in Or 
Santa Michel, that Michel Angelo once asked it, " Mark, why don't 
you speak to me ? " That church is filled with beauty and glowing 
with harmonious color. There is the Gothic shrine of Ugolino's 
Madonna : 

" Fresh in virgin beauty after five centuries, the jewel of Italy, 
complete and perfect in every way. The design is exquisite, un- 
rivaled in grace and proportion, — it is a miracle of loveliness, and 
though clustered all over with pillars and pinnacle, inlaid with the 
richest marbles, lapis lazuli, and mosaic work, it is chaste in its lux- 
uriance." — Lord Dudley. 

" Or San Michel would have been a world's wonder if it had stood 
alone." — Bare. 

" The Cathedral was begun in 1298 to build the loftiest, most sump- 
tuous edifice that human invention could devise." Many great 
sculptors have worked on its fa9ade. " The exterior is incrusted with 



iiV FLORENCE. 243 

precious marbles and it is filled with beautiful sculpture. The north- 
ern porch is especially rich." The interior is bare, modern and 
chilling. Pillars and arches are brown. The only color comes fronq 
the rich stained glass of the narrow windows. There are but four 
columns on each side of the nave. 

"About the Duomo there is stir and strife at all times; crowds 
come and go ; men buy and sell ; lads laugh and fight ; piles of fruit 
blaze gold and crimson ; metal pails clash down on the stones with 
shrillest clangor ; on the steps boys play at dorainoes,_ and women 
give their children food, and merry-makers join in carnival fooleries, 
but there in the midst is the Duomo all unharmed and undegraded, 
a poem and a prayer in one, its marbles shining in the upper air, a 
thing so majestic in its strength, and yet so human in its tenderness 
that°nothing can assail, and nothing equal it." — Fascarel. 

Michel Angelo said that the two gates at the Bapistry, opposite, 
are worthy to be gates of Paradise. Angelo's Lorenzo is a marvel 
of expression in marble, and in San Lorenzo are his Day, Night, 
Dawn and Twilight of which Mrs. Browning says : 

" Day's eyes are breaking bold and passionate. . . 
The Niglit lias wild dreams in her sleep, the Dawn, 
Is haggard as the sleepless, Twilight wears 
A sort of horror." 

In the Cloister of the Medicean Chapel the cats are fed as the 
clock strikes twelve. From every roof and arch arid parapet, mew- 
ing, hissing, and screaming cats rush to devour the food. 

On entering the Tribune they were struck with wonder. The 
room is an octagon about 25 feet across. The floor is paved with 
rich marbles, and the vaulted ceiling is inlaid with mother-of-pearl. 
It is lighted from above. Here are some very renowned works ; the 
Venus de Medici, the Dancing Faun, the Knife-Grinder, the Appol- 
ono and the Wrestlers. On the wall are five pictures by Raphael, 
three by Titian, one by Michel Angelo, four by Correggio, and sev- 
eral by others. With emotions of delight, surprise and astonishment 
they gazed on these masterpieces. The Venus de Medici presides 
and seemed to extend to them a gracious M'elcome ; she is not a god- 
dess but a lovely woman who rejoices in her beauty. 



244 ^^fiOO MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

IX 
ROME. 

They were at 

" Rome that sat on lier seven bills, 
And from her throne of beauty ruled the world." 

Rome is still great though damaged by the great explosion of 1891. 
They were in the grand basilica of /St. Peter's when it should alwaj^s 
be first seen as the shadows were rapidly yielding over nave and 
vault, and the sunbeams ])ouring through the upper windows had 
not yet gained the glare of full daylight. They felt lost in the grand 
marble expanse. The great marble statues, the monuments, the 
magnificent decorations, the love touch of the delicate light to mel- 
low those effulgent charms that masters of beauty have created, the 
m3^stlc silence of the vanishing darkness that seemed j^artly to veil its 
glories, made them feel that they were small atoms in that vast and 
glorious place. The gilded ceiling, shadowed by sunken coffers, the 
great piers with Corinthian pilasters, their niches and statues, the 
arches, the recumbent figures in stucco, the medalions, the many 
marble ornaments, the hu.ndred and twelve winking lamps were be- 
fore them. So was the bronze St. Peter whose foot has been so 
many times kissed. It is said to have been a Jupiter, but the hair is 
not as in Jupiters. They came under the great dome. There, — 

" Astonishment and admiration break upon the mind and carry it 
away. In sublimity it is so much bej-ond other architectural crea- 
tions that it demands epithets of its own. There is no work of man's 
hands that is similar or second to it. . . . It seems to be lifted 
and expanded by the elastic force of the air it clasps. Under its 
majestic vault, the soul dilates." — Hilliard. 

The monuments here of the Po2:)es are costly, somewhat uniform 
in model, pyramidal, a statue, a sarcoj^hagus, bas reliefs, supported 
or flanked by statues, allegory run wild. The finest is Canova's 
Clement XIII, expressive, artistic symmetry and grace, below is its 
chapel door guarded by two lions. The arches were now shrouded 



A WIDOW'S HIGH WOOING. 245 

with gray twilight, mysterious voices seemed to come along the 
arches. With softened tread they retired. 

With early morning they were ascending the great dome. It was 
a long, fatiguing climb, but not very steep. Weary, they were rest- 
ing when the Count came up. He greeted them both with genial 
politeness. They stepped out upon the roof above 150 feet from the 
ground. The roof is extensive. 

" How strange ! It seems as if a village is up here ! " said Annie. 
She saw wide spaces, houses, a fountain playing, people living 
upon that roof. The views are fine. Two cupolas raise their heads 
above a hundred feet more in the sky. Five other domes, smaller, 
but of great size stand there. Then the great dome itself soars 
above all these so high that their sense of magnitude felt enlarged. 
From the gallery inside the view below was very striking ; men, away 
down there, appeared like mites for smallness. By the winding stair- 
cases between the inner and outer shell of the dome they ascended to 
the base of the ball where they had a broad view of Rome that once 
ruled the world. 

The Count stood till they were seated. A little proud and tender 
smile lurked in the Widow's eye, while the Count's face had an odd 
expression, the corners of his mouth were twitching, his eyes were 
blinking for a moment, and then he was himself again. A short, 
shapely man, not young, with quiet dignity, not dark but of a sun 
brown fit for a soldier's cheek ; the high, broad brow was a little 
bald, a tawny moustache shaded a not small mouth. His eyes had 
an introspective expression in their browned coffee shade, they 
looked dreamy, but their glance could be trenchant, they could com- 
mand. The face, rather broad, was not much lined ; the whole as- 
pect was calm and genial. No wonder the Widow, looking on this 
man, should feel either that she had won a great triumph in gaining 
his love, or distrust that such a man really loved her. That she 
could not decide this distrust vexed and grieved her. Why should 
he, a Count, make love to her? This distrust caused her to resolve 
not to acquaint Annie with the fact that he had declared his love, 
until she could first see what is to come next. With a strange 
feeling of dread, and longing, she lived through that interview. She 



246 ^^fiOO MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

listened as well as she could with throbbing heart, to his pleasant 
gallantries to Annie ; all her pleasure in that morning was gone, so 
she let Annie carry on the conversation with him. 

They left the main church by the Piazza, and stopped by the Obe- 
lisk to view the fountains and colonnades that guard the approach to 
St. Peter's. They were in the center of the ellipse of about 800 feet 
long. On either hand four rows of high columns form a vast semi- 
circle facing its mate opposite. (See plate.) Adding the Galleries 
nearer the main building and we have two immense sickles facing 
each otlicr, each with a great fountain in its center. All are colossal, 
the porticoes are 64 feet high. The nearly 200 saints which stand in 
statues uj^on them are each 11 feet high. But all is harmonious, 
graceful, and seems light and airy. A great army could stand here 
and the j^lace not be crowded. 

The Count went with them to that congress of j^alaces, the Vati- 
can; it is Facial palace, library, and the best museum of art in the 
world, in sculpture sujierior to all other collections together. All 
Europe could not rival the Vatican. It has marvelous triumphs of 
painting in the frescoes of Tiajjhael and Michel Angelo. It has 
wonders of heights and marvels of perspectives. Space is ample, 
you may feel as if walking in a city. Its sculptures are thousands. 
Its vast display of beauty set the Widow into a whirl of confusion ; 
she walked right on with an air of resolution and soon lost herself. 
She found a settee, sank upon it, and with the fatigues of her jour- 
ney she fell asleep. And Annie and the Count were together ! 
They found the Widow and saw that she was sleeping, and busied 
with the attractions of the place, they left her to sleep on. 

It is true. The Count had learned from the Consul what a mis- 
take he had made in believing that the Widow was a fortune owner. 
Now Avith Annie he was gay, affable, winning. He was looking 
often in her brown, sweet, bewitching, lovable little face. In her 
eyes he saw a tender, gentle, yet wild look, untamed, free, the pretty 
and small mouth had a refined fullness, the nose a delicate curve ; 
the skin was soft, clear, every change showed in it ; and he found her 
of charming mind, A^vacious sj^eech and, though a shade of embar- 
rassment crossed his brow, he was delighted Avith her. He showed 



iisr THE VATICAN. 247 

her the gallery of sculptured animals, the horses, the lions, the clogs, 
and, entering the Hall of the Greek Cross that bright warm day, the 
effect of the scene was like joyous strains of music. Thei-e color 
beams in lovely tints, a superb doorway is flanked by two red granite 
colossal statues, the pavement is rich, with jDarti-colored mosaics, the 
roof is gay in gilt and j^aint, white marble cornices and capitals sit 
on gray or red granite shafts ; statues, vases, busts, sarcophagi and 
candelabra are placed with unerring taste. The effect is rich, airy, 
exhilarating and darins;. 

"Eet ees superba; yoo love ze elegante, dis iz elegantisima." 

" It is very sujierb." 

" Does ze Senora vish to zee booteefle jjeectur ? " 

" O yes, I admire them very much." 

" Zen ve vill zee ze peectur gahlerree, hare eet eez." 

The oil paintings of the Vatican are about fifty. He led her di- 
rectly to RajDhael's renowned Transfiguration, the last and best work 
of that illustrious artist. She made no exclamation of wonder, her 
soft, but bright eyes turned uj^ward in wrap silence at the marvelous 
beauty of the masterpiece. She perceived the drawing, the coloring, 
the grouping, the dramatic jDower of the figures, the expressive face 
of the Saviour, the bereaved mother and disciples. Standing thus, 
Annie was thus herself a striking and pleasant j^icture, for the 
greatest ai'tist never equalled nature, and often when one's eyes are 
weary of looking upon the works of the five greatest of early Ital- 
ians masters, Michel Angelo, Raphael Sanzio, Titian, di Vinci and 
Correggio, it is refreshing to return to the real and look at the 
faces of actual, living persons, in their animation of real life and 
joy. But the light that fell upon this indoor living pictui-e was toned 
to show its best loveliness. Do you wonder that this man of cul- 
tured taste saw in the highly trained American girl, a new form of 
high beauty, beaming with a charm of intelligence that the most 
vivid brush of the gi-eat old masters could not jiortray ? 

Glancing at her the Count exclaimed, " How loveable ! " The 
words escaped his lips in a low tone. He arched his eyebrows, and 
put on a slightly startled look to exjDress, " It said itself in spite of 
me," and Annie silently accepted this pantomime apology. Annie 



248 1^,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

asked to see the famous Library. The Count conducted her into a 
noble hall, splendid in frescoes, statues and galleries. But not a 
book is in sight in this oldest and most famous libi-ary of Europe, 
they are all in cases. 

They found the Widow sitting bolt upright on a settee and fast 
asleep. A young artist thirty steps away was slyly sketching her. 
Had this act occurred a few days earlier the Count would have 
quickly resented it, but now he spoke gently to awake her. She was 
so indignant at the act of the artist that she asked to be taken away 
from the Vatican, so they went to see the Pantheon^ the best pre- 
served of Rome's ancient buildings. They found it crowded by 
common buildings, in a close sjDot. The portico, 110 feet long and 
10 deep, is beautiful; it rests on 16 Corinthian columns, 8 in front, 
and 4 having tAVO others behind them dividing the portico into three 
parts like the nave and aisles of a church. The interior is a rotunda 
under a dome, the only light coming through a circular opening 28 
feet across, in the apex of the high dome. This light adds rare 
charm to this noble jjlace. 

The many obelisks, the Castle of St. Angela, built by Hadrian for 
his tomb, the numerous fountains, the Tarpeian Hock diminished in 
height by debris at its base, yet still suiRcient to render any traitor 
thrown from its top, as harmless as hay ; the colossal statue of Pom- 
pey holding the globe ready to throw it at somebody, the Villa 
Borghese and its grounds, and many other objects, received their 
attention. Teteto found a statue of Jonah sitting on a whale, the 
whale hardly as large as the man. 

" Dis a-here settles it, Joner wur a cowboy an' he lassooed de 
w'ale, an' rid 'im de t'ree days a' nights, an' neder swallert todder 
dtwer mistak' uv translashun ; dis here ole statute mus' a-bin made 
in dem ole tlmz by some ninny uv Ninevah 't node 'im, sure." 

The Count showed them his old jjalace. It was a large building 
with capacious rooms, most of which were let for rent. The base- 
ment was used for a warehouse, the next story by American and 
English families, the higher story by artists. The Count reserved to 
himself and his mother only small and inconvenient quarters m the 
poorer part. Annie was hardly expecting this situation, but the 



SIGHTS IN ROME. 249 

Consul told them it is not unusual in Italy. Many noble families 
have no means of existence but either to work out a fortune like 
other persons or live in this way, rich in palace and pictures, but 
else in poverty. Tlie Count's picture gallery is really valuable, but 
it brings no income and is closed most of the time. In walking 
through it the Count had managed that the Widow was escorted by 
his mother. This disloyalty to Mrs. Maler left him free to attend 
Annie and find place to say to her, — 

" Do Signorina leek moi palazza ? " 

" It is a fine old place." 

" Yees, — -eet ees feena. Eef eet onlee haf da soceatee, da leet ofE 
da sun uff love, zen veel all ba hahp25ee az nafare vas." 

Annie blushed deej)ly under his searching eyes, but she did not 
turn away. He continued, — 

"Do not yoor heart tails yoo da — " 

" Bills uv mortality ! Wotter country whar de sen' er feller a bUl 
uv his mo'tality 'fore he's de'd ! " came in the sharp voice of Teteto, 
who had found an English newspaj^er. The Count scowled. " He 
gave me a sardine smile," Teteto afterwards said. Annie seemed as 
if about to cry. The Widow saw the situation and came sailing up 
and in two minutes they had politely taken leave of the Count and 
his parent. The Widow j^ut one of her pet bonbons in her mouth, 
leaned back in the carriage and — O that people would learn that it 
is impolite to ask direct questions, — she asked Annie what the 
Count was saying to her ! But at that moment the carriage wheel 
struck a Roman beggar, and, as Teteto expressed it, " Wheeled him 
into line," or the wheel threw him down flat on the road. The 
driver stopped, the beggar raved, demanded pay for the harm done 
him. Teteto paid him ten cents, which satisfied him. 

They found the Capitol, once of marvelous size and magnificence, 
now a mass of ruins on which are three palaces designed by Michel 
Angelo and occujiying three sides of a square. In one of them is 
the Dying Gladiator. In another, the Museum., is a vast collection 
of works of art. On a ride about the city they found the renowned 
Forum a desolation, but the grand Arch of Constantine still rears its 
proud head in solemn majesty as it did twenty- four centuries ago ; 



250 l^fiOO MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

but the palace of the Caesars, on a hill above a mile in circuit and less 
than 200 feet high, j^resents shajjeless ruins, and kitchen gardens, 
cabbages and lettuce, and trees and vines, but is crowned by a smart 
modern villa. The Colosseian is a j^icturesque ruin where the irreg- 
ular decay has stopj^ed at just the right point for sentiment, by day 
a stately form, by night a majestic vision. They saw it by bright 
starlight; and when the late moon arose, they saw deej) vaults of 
gloom opening in ebon walls, they saw stars through breaks, and 
conjured up shadowy forms of emperor and gladiator coming out of 
the darkness and j^asslng on, and " the breezes that blow through 
the arches are changed into voices." The Count was wooing Annie. 

"America ees young, eet haf great destinee ; Eetila ees mature, 
eet haf great recorde ; booteefle ud ba union, — marriage off ze two 
countreez, ze art, ze powers, ze moneez, ze deesteenee uneeta, vot 
yoo sahz?" 

" I say that I like Italy immensely." 

" Eemanslee ! Vel ! Ah, moi Signorina, zat me var mooch plahz. 
Cood yoo leef een ze palace een Eetalee an' ba hahppee?" 

" I admire palaces, but my tastes are simple, I should have to ac- 
quire expensive ones." 

This reply encouraged him and he went on, 

"Do yoo lof a lof storee, Signorina? Yil yoo lat moi tale vone?" 

Instantly she })erceived that he might have misconstrued her 
words and she saidj — 

" I do not understan — " 

" Annee ! Annee ! AVhere be ye ? " came in the Widow's voice 
cutting the air of that somber place. ,So the proposed love story 
was laid on tlie table. 



X 

SOUTHERN ITALY. 

GAETA. 

Morning glittered in beauty at Gaeta. The shore of the darkest 
blue sea shone like a sickle of silver ; soft but abrupt hills rolled 



SOUTHERN ITALY. 251 

away off to where villages cling to precipices. A tropic smile of 
cactus hedges, of the orange, the lemon, the fig, and clustering fes- 
tive vines, a glowing, impassioned scene. The faces of men and of 
nature are new, the party had entered a new domain where flowers 
and leaves are brighter, and men more passionate, the sunshine more 
rich, the people more iiieturesqne, more dark and dirty. Delightful 
form, light, colors, danced in the great landscape at Fonda, whei'e 
once lived Julia Colonna, so jirovokingly beautiful that a Sultan sent 
corsairs to capture her ; but sweet Julia, hearing the attack, escaped, 
clothed like Eve before the fall, but consoled for loss of her dry 
goods by this compliment to her beauty. The Count described it 
vividly as if he had witnessed the interesting affair. 

NAPLES. 

One look and you have it: Rome and Florence require time and 
study. Naples is pageant, has no churches, no palaces that one need 
to see. The museum holds the art and antiquities. No one can de- 
scribe or exaggerate the beauty of scene. Two projecting arms, 20 
miles apart, embrace the famed bay, the shore connecting them is 
almost a line, with the hard old smoker, Vesuvius, near its middle. 
The whole landscaj^e, water and earth, luxuriates in beauty ; the 
dazzling blue water, the range of sky-piercing mountains capped for 
months with snow, their girdles of forests midAvay, the shore cliffs 
draped with vegetable glory, countless j^oints crowned with villas, 
houses or monasteries connected by glowing orange groves, orchards, 
vineyards and gardens. The lines of beauty and grandeur meet 
where tall Vesuvius towers, solitary three-fourths of a mile, but ap- 
pearing much higher, in flowing, graceful outlines, the ideal mountain 
of painters. And then its mysterious, awful power, its fire and 
smoke, its hold on the imagination, its great part in romantic his- 
tory, its murder of the buried cities, and its concealment of its crimes 
under black lava. On the shore is no defiance, no castellated masses 
of granite stand like battle ships in bold display. " The earth is 
beautiful and impassioned Hero, and the waves lie upon her bosom 
like the dripping locks of Leander," says Plilliard. Naples is but the 
nucleus of the swarming life. From the Bay the white buildings of 



252 l^-.'^OO MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

< 
the shores seem like china cups ranged around a shelf of the crescent 
shajDed closet. The whole is a magnificent masterpiece in which pal- 
aces, villas, forests, gardens, vineyards, and mountain and blue sea 
are pictured. Words fail, the painter lays down his brushes, it can- 
not be depicted ; " See Najjles and — " live in beauty. 

Five miles from Naples they walked in narrow tunnels from 70 to 
120 feet beneath two modern villages, in what was Ilerculaneum, 
buried A. D. 79, found again in 1738, after 1659 years of buried 
silence. But small part is seen, the rest is still buried. In a 
portion they saw streets laid open. For 1610 years Pompeii 
had been buried when ruins were noticed, and 66 years later, in 
1755, excavations were begun. It was covered only from 15 to 20 
feet deej), by several layers of ashes and sand, while Ilerculaneum 
was first buried in mud, and then covered by lava and tufa. Of the 
eight or nine layers at Pompeii, the upper are undisturbed, but the 
lower have sometime been moved, and objects of great value, such as 
gold and silver, are lacking, so perhaps the people returned to bury 
their dead and get their most valuable things, and subsequent erup- 
tions have done the rest. The scene is beautiful, the blue sea, and 
the luxuriant green on land. The party descended a sloping path 
to the silent city in what is like a railway cut, they entered by the 
great arched gateway ; they saw the bakery where loaves were 
found stamped with the baker's name, examined the sculptured and 
painted walls, the baths, the household fountains, the inner walls 
with pictures of dancing girls in transparent drapery, and flowery 
frescoes, and strewn roses in these ancient luxurious homes, and then 
they went to see the relics in the m^useura at Naples. These are 
many. Here are paint boxes hoUling bright colors, cases of jewels, 
some found in houses, others dropped in the flight; rings, bracelets, 
chains, necklaces of finely worked gold set Avith gems, some unin- 
jured and sparkling as brightly as when women and girls wore them 
1800 years ago. Toilet things are here, and a silk hair net, looking 
fresh and new, hangs on a bronze hook, a charred shawl lies by it. 
Fruits in bronze dishes retain their shape, but are charred black, a 
string net hanging up is full of eggs. At Pompeii, a museum con- 
tains the skeletons, they are not many. The earth had retained the 



MUSIC GIRLS. 253 

form of tliose who perished, so when a skeleton was found, hot 
plaster was poured uf)on it, which hardened and tlius j^i'eserved the 
form and features. Each lies in position as found, rings still on the 
fingers. These figures with the details of their dress, move the 
spectators to sympathy and l^ity. 

Into the court of their hotel came two girls with tambourines, and 
a boy with a guitar. At their first note every door flew open, every 
person came out, a host of them, with plenty of girls and children. 
Every one joined in the songs, all were merry, each was gay. The 
strollers sang prettily, their eyes sparkled. One girl was a brown 
beauty, easy and graceful. As she struck her tambourine, she threw 
her i^retty arms aloft, and her lithe body into graceful jioses, and 
bantered the Count to do it. He tried it, but instead of music, the 
thing would only give out thumps, and instead of spinning around 
on his finger, it flew to the ground, where the girl caught it and 
twirled it merrily on her brown finger, each bell tinkling just right ; 
and then she smiled archly at the Count, and struck the top of his 
head with the instrument, and whirled around him in a dance, and 
in a moment all were dancing together, the whole crowd whirling as 
gaily as their sprightly spirits imjDelled them. 

Then the Count called a halt, the strollers were led courteously to 
a seat under an orange tree, another bench was placed before them 
and quickly piled with oranges, little cakes and wine. They par- 
took of them and then with addios the strollers went their way. 

" That purtyis gal am harnsum az de Milo uv Tenus," said Teteto 
as he watched her disappear down the street. He saw her stop and 
look wistfully at the jewelry displayed for sale on a little stand. 
He followed and addressed her, — 

" Miss Eyetalin lady, you hev lit er flame intu my genul heart, 
yer bright eyz is tu muchee fur me, I're er gonee ; yer harnsuTu, but 
yer not t' blame fur thet ; yer carnt help it." 

She stood looking very amused at him. He went on, — 

"Yer look mi'ty fit ter kiss." 

" Signor flattera me." 

" Yer er rouser. The gal ar'n't slo' thet beats yersef. Yer han- 
sum ez er red Maydonee." 



254 13fi00 MILES OF SIGUT-SEEING. 

" De Signor ees varee funnee." 

" Yer buty's made mesef wantei" kiss ye ; may I ? " 

" Vats zoo gifa me ? Vil zoo gifa me da topaz ring ? " 

" A toe jiatch ring, miss ? " Yes, andade." 

The bargain being struck the kiss was taken. But now the dealer 
asked |5 for the ring. 

" Carn't guv it. I'll guv y' haf lire " (ten cents). 

"Xo; gifa me one Xapoleon." 

" Gifa me da hafa lire an' leta 'eera kaps da ring," said the girl, 
and then the dealer urged Teteto to take it at a half lire, but the 
girl took the little coin instead. 

To ascend Vesuvius they went to llesina, which swarmed with 
guides, boys and horses. The Count and Annie walked slowly 
under the trees, lie was saying, — 

" Signorina, Nahtura ees vere belissimnia looflee hahra, Eetahlia ees 
booteefle ; yoo ar' too bootatle, yoo and Eetalia so aleek, so en rap- 
port. Now mio loflee Signorina, I vish vere mooch to ask eef you 
vill— " 

" Have a guide, Signorina ? " bawled a bandit looking fellow. 

" No ! Ash I vos say, nottins een ze vorlt mak's me so happee 
as—'' 

" Have a ride up the mountain ? " 

"No ! Blava me, Signorina, I feels, zat dis ees the — " 

" Best donkey on the route." 

" Go away ! O, Signox-ina, eef yoo effer felt az I vil — " 

*' Carry yoo w^ where the fire biases closest ! " 

"We don't go with yoo. Dars nottins, Signorina, een dis vorlt so 
sweet as — " 

" See the rocks fly high in the sky and fall again." 

" Git out ! Mio Signorina, eef yoo veelz a liddle vor me — " 

*' I'll show you all the points for five lira." 

" I don't want your miserable sarveeces ! Go from us ! " 
" If I had a lady in charge and she was used to riding on her pony, 
I'd just take the best pair to be had right here." 

" O, Signorina, let we mount dis ponies an' ride whara dis feller 
can't be hurd." And they mounted that saucy guide's ponies and 



VESUVIUS AND LOVE. 255 

rode up Vesuvius. But all the way they were accompanied by men 
whom they could not shake off. One carried on his head a basket 
of wine, fruit, oranges and cakes, in the hope they would buy them 
at some time. 

"How high does this hill extend?" asked Annie. 

" Clear to the top," replied Teteto. 

High up, lava, brown and gray, was piled and twisted and cleft. 
They heard a roaring within the mountain, heavy and sullen. 

When the horses must be left, it was fatiguing to walk on the 
yielding scoria, the foot sinks and slides. They saw men and women 
going up with guides pushing and pulling them. At the summit 
they stood and beheld volleys of hot stones shot high into the air, 
almost every minute, with cracking and hissing sound, and falling 
back with heavy thud. The scene was solemn and awful desolation, 
the sublime architecture of ruin, peaks, dells and plains of lava, beds 
of fire torrents, the surface all broken as if a stormy sea had been 
arrested and turned into a solid mass. Streams of lava were flowing, 
or rather exuding, gliding a few feet and cooling to blackness. 
Ruddy fire shot up from crevices. With the darkening of night the 
scene became still more grand. The red hot stones flew so high, the 
fires blazed so sharply, the flj^ing smoke and ashes took on such 
wreaths and curls of red, orange and yellow, the lava became so 
ruddy, that all was striking beyond description. Then by moonlight, 
the mountain so hard to ascend, was easily and quickly descended. 

When Annie knew that the Count wished to open his heart to her, 
what was she to do ? She was unused to tender words. No lover 
had ever whispered them to her. Then the young girl's sweet and 
lively imagination was throwing eloquent enchantment around her. 
To be a duchess, to live in sunny Italy, to enjoy all the many charms 
of Rome, to have this fine looking and apparently tender man for 
her husband, all seemed to her gay, picturing mind, as a life of roses, 
a very dream of bliss. Then she was startled by a hundred com- 
punctions. What should she do? It was the bliss of a first wooing, 
the fervor of a young and tender heart. She saw many brilliant 
people in Italy; and as the Count's wife she would be the equal in 
rank of the proudest of these. 



256 ISfiOO MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

The Count was now embarrassed. He now believed that the 
Widow was the legal guardian as well as the cicerone of Annie. The 
Widow then was the person to whom he must apply for permission 
to address his suit to Annie ! " What a predicament ! " he exclaimed 
to his friend, Major Bazis of the British club. He spoke in Italian, 
which the Major understood. 

" Tell me of this charming lady, is she lovely?" asked the Major. 

" As the very Hebe herself ; healthful, bright, vivacious and pretty." 

"Rich and beautiful! What a prize! I cannot understand why 
you hesitate to secure her." 

The Count stated the facts. Major Bazis laughed. " I am glad 
of your predicament. If you cannot prosecute your chances you will 
at least let me try mine ? " 

"O, Major! Don't say it. I have station, rank, name to offer; 
have you more ? " 

" I have rank but not so high as yours, and I have fortune." 

" But she has money enough for me I am told." 

" Ah ! I see how it is. You are fortune seeking." 

*' I did not expect you to put it in plain words. I am sorry I have 
taken you into my confidence if you will speak thus." 

"I beg your pardon. I never knew you to fail in anything ; so 
•why don't you just go ahead and win ? " 

"Without the Guardian Widow's consent?" 

" Without her knowledge. Propose at once. I will draw away 
the Widow's attention, so as to give you a chance." 

They were nearing Resina, here was a chance. The Count took 
it. Riding to Annie's side he drew her aloof from the rest. He said,- 

" Signorina, I adore yoo, I love yoo. Vill yoo marry me ? I vil 
alvas love yoo. I vill haf yoo vor mio leedle angle (angel) ." 

" Stop, Sir ! " she said, and she put up her small hand as if to ward 
off a blow. The little American girl had recovered herself. He spoke 
in passionate entreaty. " Do not say another word," she added. 

" Ah, Annie, mia ! It is because you care nottins vor me," he la- 
mented. 

But Annie said, " I have enjoyed your society. You were pre- 




r-RANING TOWKIIS, BOI-OCiNA, ITALY 







t AsiTI.E OF ST. AXGEI.O, ROME. 




PETRARCH S TOMB, I5ATTAGLIA, ITALY. 




ITAI-IAX FISlIEIiMEX. 



LOVE AND LOSS. 273 

sented to me by the representative of my country in Florence. I 
believe you are honorable. Make some other woman happy. I 
must not listen." 

The Count flung himself from his pony and came to her side. He 
spoke with eloquent pathos. But Annie replied, — 

"This must go no further. We part here and now. We must 
not meet again." They had arrived back at Resina. Annie entered 
a carriage with her American friends, while the Count stood there 
in the attitude of one who has just met a great sorrow. But Annie 
was not done with the Count. 

The Count met the Widow and they walked in a bazaar, the 
Widow, womanlike, carrying her purse in her hand. While look- 
ing at some pretty silk she put the purse upon the counter. Her at- 
tention was absorbed with the goods. When ready to go she missed 
the purse ; it was not where she had placed it. The attendant pro- 
tested his innocence of theft ; but where could it be ? She was sure 
that nobody but the Count had been within reach of it. She was 
certain that the attendant could not have taken it. She was aston- 
ished, grieved. She put one of her bonbons in her mouth and shed 
tears. The tears were not for the loss, they were for the shocking 
suspicion. She had read of fictitious Counts ; could this be such an 
one? It seemed impossible. But then what had he been saying so 
slyly to Annie in his palace at Rome ? Can a man ever be trusted ? 
Then she remembered how the late lamented Mr. Maler had not al- 
ways been all she desired in honesty. Is it possible that a dignified, 
poHshed man is a thief? She did not speak any of these thoughts ; 
but they tugged hard at the tender heart of the good Widow Maler. 
She returned to the hotel a blighted being. Never, never would she 
again trust any being that wears trousers, no, never. But where was 
the Count ? She had turned her back on him in the bazaar ; she had 
refused his offered escort to the hotel. She was so angry with her- 
self for having been so deceived that she shook her slipper at herself 
in the mirror. She tore from her bosom the rose given by the Count 
and flung it into the street. Had she been a man she would have 
said bad words ; as she was a woman the thoughts that ran riot in 
her mind were very amusing to the old Harry. 
18 



274 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

Like a tragic actress she paced the room and declaimed to her own 
reflection in the very large mirror : 

*' To marry for love is sweet ; but lo work for love is sweeter 
dearer, more hallowing. O, for love of that man, if he were only 
true and noble, I could sacrifice all my life, could devote my whole 
existence, could wring from my heart its last living blood, could 
slave for him, spend my every moment to study his happiness ! I 
would crawl in the dust for my love of him. I would starve to feed 
him. For him I would give everything that I prize on earth, would 
yield all my hopes of happiness — I love him ! It is an awful, a ter- 
rible thought ! I love him ! And he has stolen like a common pick- 
pocket ! Mighty God ! Protect women from men such as he ! I 
love him ! Oh that I could tear my throbbing heart from my bosom 
and fling it in his face ! I love a villain ! I must love him ! I can- 
not withdraw my deep, burning love from that — miscreant. Why, 
O, why are we not so made that we can, at j^leasure, extinguish our 
love when it becomes bitter, burning, tormenting ! Merciful heaven, 
grant that I must not forever carry in my heart the unblessed image 
of a— thief ! " 

As she uttered these burning words her large eyes blazed, her 
cheeks flushed, her bosom heaved with intense emotion. Her voice 
was not loud, it was rich, trembling, melodious, more of a dirge than 
of a war tone. Then she burst into tears and hurried from the room. 

She had not susf)ected a listener. But back in the shade of the 
corner of the big room stood Teteto. Now he came to the front, 
shaking his fist and saying : 

" Wonder whu it am? Some feller in Meriky I rekun. Got let'r 
frum 'im I spekt. Mus' er ben er mi'ty bad let'r. I wish I'kd knsole 
'er. Les see, I doan luv'r purticlr, but I — I'll marry 'er ruthurn 
she's feel dataway. I're jis ergoine t' offer t' marry 'er." 

At that moment she reappeared with cosmetics to destroy the 
marks of her passion. She was almost calm now. Teteto began, 
"Niver ye moint the feller yu've los'. I're er bet'er man nor he, an' 
I Stan' alare'dy to marry ye this blessid minit." 

The Widow stood still a moment in surprise, then she threw the 
contents of her powder box into his face. It covered his counte- 



THE WIDOW. 275 

nance, and as his mouth is always open, a goodly portion lodged 
in his windpipe and suffocated him. The pantomime that he per- 
formed set the Widow into a hearty laugh. 

When he had cleared his throat so as to breath his eyes were still 
closed. He grasped at the table and found there a bottle of dark 
red wine, with which he tried to wash off the chalk. The wine 
colored his hands, face and clothes and made him look a very bloody 
villain. Choking and gasping he said, "It's mesef is a hopin' as 
ye'l be pardonable an' guv the luv uv yees t' mesef, I'll be havin' 
hope, an' its mesef that's hurd say as hope am t' yankeeuvthe soul." 

" Don't anchor to that hope, Teteto." 

'•Thin if mesef t' hav no hopin' at all, at all, its me hopes that go 
below hero in t' cronometer uv warmness, sure." 

The Widow was of elastic temj^erament, not fickle but flexible, 
yet true as steel. Wlien Annie came in, an hour later, she did not 
suspect that the gentle Widow had just experienced a toi-nado of 
grief for a lost love and of mirth for an undesired lover. 

Annie hastened to her own room flushed and excited. She must 
take a night's good rest and leave early in the morning before the 
Count could have time to call. She was preparing for bed when the 
Widow came to her, and said : 

" Let's take a night train for Brindisi ? " 

Annie consented at once and turned to the glass again. She 
could not control a tremor, but she kept on braiding her bright hair 
with deft fingers, her face shadowed from the lights that were burn- 
ing on the table. The Widow watched her furtively. Annie put 
back her luxuriant locks, standing there half undressed, her robe 
drooping from her pearly shoulders, her plump fair arms bare, she 
looked so fair, so good, so maidenly, that the Widow thought, — " I 
feared there was something between her and the Count, but she can- 
not be so sly as to keej) it from me : — it does not, cannot exist." 

The good Widow left a note for the Count, exi:»laining that she 
was conscious that he had taken her purse in the bazaar. She 
thought this explanation was due even to a thief. They took the 
British steamer at Brindisi for Athens. Annie's classic education 



276 i5,W6' MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

made her glad she was to see the land of ancient renown, the cradle 
of literature and art. She felt enthusiasm as she saw rise grandly 
from the sea, the very mountains Avhere nymphs had their home. 
With a glass she looked into tlie gulf of Xavarino, where, in 1820, 
the fleets of Britain, France and Russia, destroyed the fleet of Tur- 
key. Later she crossed the Corean gulf, looked again to the north 
and saw a clear, sharp outline of mountains, dark at the base, gray 
stone ribs running up the sides, sharp peaks, white with snow, gleam- 
ing silvery in the sunshine, a mellow haze, a blending of bright tints, 
a golden and purple glow, such as art cannot reproduce. She be- 
held the bay of famous ancient Sparta, with a grand wall of moun- 
tains looming beyond it. She sat uj^on the deck and dreamed, imag- 
ined the advent here, in very ancient days, of the Phenicians to 
settle Greece, saw the great Athenian fleets sweep past ; the Per- 
sians with many sail ; the Egyptians, Romans, Carthagenians ; be- 
held the Ajjostle Paul arriving to preach a new gospel ; great men, 
great fleets, and great history have been here. She felt an ecstatic 
thrill, an elevation of soul as she stepped upon the soil of Greece. 
But though it was night, hotel runners were shouting and, in a res- 
taurant, fellows were drinking wine and talking, and singing songs 
of Bacchus. A carriage took them five miles to Athens. They were 
met by Mr. Hawais, an old friend, to whom Annie had telegraphed 
from Brindisi. As it was bright moonlight, Mrs. Hawais proposed 
that they see the Acropolis. Then Annie was profoundly impressed, 
Mr. Hawais remarked : 

" It is the inevitable feeling that seizes upon travelers when first 
they stand amid these j^eerless ruins. It is awe and admiration quite 
distinct from anything experienced at Rome or elsewhere. The 
Greek touch is ineffable ; the Greek spirit and subtlety of beauty is 
as alive as ever, and haunts the Athenian summit, strewn all over 
with fragments of Praxiteles and Phidias." 

They walked upon that famous hill. They saw its i3eerless beauty. 
As Mark Twain describes it : 

" We walked out into the grass grown, fragment- strewn court be- 
yond the Parthenon. It startled us every now and then, to see a 
stony white face stare suddenly up at us out of the grass with its 



AT ATHENS. 277 

dead. The j^lace seemed alive with ghosts. I half expected to see 
the Athenian heroes of twenty centuries ago glide out of the shad- 
ows, and steal into the old temple they knew so well and regarded 
with such boundless pride. 

" The full moon was riding high in the heavens. We sauntered 
carelessly and unthinkingly to the edge of the lofty battlements of the 
citadel, and looked down. A vision ! — and such a vision ! Athens 
by moonlight •' It lay in the level plain, right under our feet — all 
spread abroad like a picture, and we looked upon it as we might be 
looking at it from a balloon. We saw no semblance of a street, but 
every house, every window, every clinging vine, every projection 
were marked as clearly as it were at noonday; and yet there was no 
glare, no glitter, nothing harsh or repulsive. The harshest city was 
flooded with the yellowest light that ever streamed from the moon, 
and seemed like some living creature wrapped in peaceful slumber. 
On its further side was a little temple, whose delicate pillars and 
ornate front glowed with a rich luster that chained the eye like a 
spell ; and nearer by, the palace of the king reared its creamy walls 
out of the mist of a great garden of shrubbery, that was flecked all 
over with a random shower of amber lights — a spray of golden, 
sparks that lost their brightness in the glory of the moon, and 
glinted softly upon the sea of dark foliage like the pallid star of the 
milky way. Overhead the stately columns, majestic still in their 
ruin; under foot, the dreaming city; in the distance, the silver sea. 
The picture needed nothing. It was perfect." 

In the morning they went through the market where oranges, lem- 
ons, dates, figs and grapes lay in abundance for sale. They came to 
the marble gateway with Doric columns on each side, the very gate 
at which St. Paul disputed daily (see Acts xvii). Three minutes' 
walk took them clear of houses and to a rock about forty feet high 
and fifteen rods long. They ascended by ancient and almost obliter- 
ated steps, and found a little space leveled and squared, with an 
ancient seat. Here was held the Greek court, the Arrapagus, in the 
open air. Standing here Paul once preached. As he faced the north 
he saw the temple of Theseus, built about five centuries before, and 
to-day the most jierfect of the ancient buildings of Athens ; its mas- 
sive walls still loom grandly on the landscape. Turning to the north- 
east he looked up to the Acropolis ; if he was a good slinger he could 
sling a stone over its wall. There rose its majestic gateway, and 
there Minerva, the golden goddess, so tall, so stately, that the mari- 
ner saw, from a distance at sea, the sunlight glittering on her brow. 



278 ^^fiOO MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

All around brave Paul were grand, magnificent temples, superb 
statues, the most enchanting architectural beauty. Just yonder, 
Demosthenes pronounced his undying orations. As one stands here 
he seems to live in a glorious, but ruined antiquity. Around the 
Acropolis were once a multitude of deities. Somewhere here Paul 
saw the altar with the inscription to the unknown God. 

TURKEY. 

Strange sights are at Constantinople, the center of Islam. They 
crossed tlie Mamora and the Bosphorus, to the east they saw Prince's 
Islands, where the Sultan and rich Turks spend hot days. Ahead 
appeared Sciitari, a suburb in Asia, a square yellowish block was 
the British hospital, of 1854, where Florence Nightingale set a 
noble example. A dingy wall lines the north shore, they saw beyond 
it a mass of dark houses. SAveeping on the land became higher, and 
houses rose tier above tier, then the big, yellow walled university, 
with broad front towards the river, and above this, two grand 
m^osques, St. Sophia and Suleiman, their white walls, and mighty 
domes, and tall, slender, tapering minarets crowning the highest 
point. They reached the Golden Horn, a deep, capacious harbor 
crowded with 8team.ers, ships, and thousands of vessels, a water city 
of itself. That portion south and west, is the old, quaint, curious 
Moslem Stamboul. To the north the ground rises. Up the Bos- 
phorus is the suburb, Pera, where foreigners live, English, Ameri- 
cans, French and others. As the city has no piers, they drop 
anchor. A hundred boats rush for the steamer, two hundred 
boatmen clamor to take them ashore, twenty climb the side of the 
ship and wrangle for the job. Down the gangway they go into a boat 
while fifty men in other boats beckon them and pretend to have the 
best boat. Over narrow, dirty, winding streets, among porters, drag- 
omen, couriers, dogs, and sharpers springing up and offering service, 
they reach a hotel and find a good dinner ready. 

This is a city of contrasts, here meet ancient and modern civiliza- 
tion, wealth and jDoverty, Europe and Asia, Christian and Islam, a 
motley of many nations and races, and the shojis have the goods of 
all lands. Signs over doors are in Turkish, Greek, Russian, English, 



TURKEY. 279 

French, Italian or German. The French influence Pera ; it uses the 
French language, French goods are plenty, the streets swarm with 
men who have been to Paris, and have relaxed their Moslem ideas. 
Streets are narrow, the grand street in Pera, best of all, is but from 
twelve to twenty feet wide. Houses are in many Oriental styles, 
windows hang over the street with lattices, so Turkish ladies can see 
without being seen. Horses and carriages are few, porters carry the 
goods and luggage, or donkeys in a string drive you to the wall 
while they pass. The streets are crowded, most men in European 
costume except the red fez. Porters, mule drivers and Buch men, 
wear baggy trousers, sashes, jackets and turbans. Old men appear 
with green and white turbans, snuff-colored robes, blue cloaks lined 
with scarlet, many yards of red sash, trousers like meal bags, long 
gray beards, faces long and grave, and eyes deeply set. Teteto ex- 
claimed: " Jis look! An' its alive bundle uv cloze that's a walkin', 
sure. An' its mesilf that's a seein' two fate ; an' thin surathin' the 
loikes uv the head uv sumbudy wrapt in white, an' — Och ! thars two 
eyes uv hersilf a-peepin' out, an' its a woman ! An' it is, sure ! ' 

Then a Turkish carriage came along, the horse driven by a man 
who walked, the coach body about the size of a hogshead, gilded, and 
hung by leather straps. In it were two ladies with carmine lips and 
cheeks, and black eyes, and marble brows bleached by the hot bath, 
the lips and cheeks touched with rouge. The Guide said, " The 
whole street looks like a bed of poppies in full bloom, with the 
thousands of red fezes bobbing about. The true Turk retains his 
fez." They were jostled by the crowd, beggars in rags beset them. 
Their way was blocked by Turkish women, waddling like ducks, in 
yellow, scarlet, brown, crimson, blue and piu'ple outside garments, 
which are neither cloaks nor shawls ; and with eyes peeping out from 
their white veils. Dogs swarmed and wagged their tails. They met 
two men leading a boar. Other men defended the beast against the 
attack of a host of dogs. The dogs charged, the men struck with 
poles; tads vibrated in the air, ears shook, teeth gleamed. The 
dogs, repulsed, again came on ; the bear seemed indifferent, the men 
shouted and whacked, and so the absurd battle went on till the bear 
reached the Stamboul bridge. Immense numbers of dogs are with- 



280 ^^fiOO MILES OF SIGUT-SEEING. 

out owners, and tliey seem to govern dogdom by rules ; no strange 
dog is allowed to enter a district, and the city seems divided by dogs 
into dog districts. Woe to Towser if he get over the line. 

The 2^3,rty got a permit and went to the great mosque of St. 
Sophia. They found its interior an immense area, the big dome up- 
held by pillars from many lands. A row of Moslems were bowing 
their heads towards Mecca, a fierce old Turk, flaming all over in red, 
was exhorting with fury, shouting and shaking his fists ; others were 
praying or reading the Koran. Boys capered in glee. But a crowd 
came round the visitors and insisted they should leave. At the door 
they resumed their shoes wliich they had put off, and were teased 
by beggars for gifts. 

Three Sabbaths a week, Friday by the Moslem majority, Saturday 
by Jews, and Sunday by Greeks, who are nearly one-third of the 
people, make three holidays which interfere with business. The 
Sultan has several j^alaces. His summer j^alace is a marvel of 
beauty. It was Friday. The Sultan was going to a mosque. The 
way was lined with soldiers and a crowd behind them, a strange, 
mixed, variegated mass. A flourish of trumpets, music and shouts 
which ran along the line, and the Sultan appeared on a splendid 
black horse, magnificently caparisoned, his high ofiicers, walking and 
leading their horses. He wore the red fez and a rich dress. At the 
mosque a j^riest with a sacred vessel in each hand, met him. As he 
entered, each high officer made the graceful sal am by touching his 
own heart, lips and forehead. The Sultan is the head of Islam 
whether in or out of Turkey. Sublime Porte is the real name of the 
government, the Grand Vizier is the chief minister, the Divan is the 
State Council, the Grand Mufti is the chief interpreter of the Islam 
law, and Islam is the right name of what some call Mohammedanism. 
The streets are so narrow that they walked wherever they went, or 
as Teteto said they " trudged a tradegy of miles." 

We may now call Annie a girl of the period because she came to 
a full stop. The Golden Horn was her most easterly point. 

A shabby peddler tried to sell Teteto some of the useless nieknacks 
of the east. But Teteto was on the defensive. Annie heard this 
talk: 



AMONG THE TURKS. 281 

Peddler— «Yo' buy um?" 

Teteto — " Go buy um ! Yis, au' I will, sure." 

« Of course." 

" Yis, its coarse." 

" I rely on you to buy um." 

"Yis, you lie and re-lie on me to buy it; what's the price?" 

"Twenty piasters." 

"I will. give two piasters." 
" « Take it at fifteen." 

"I will give but five," and with this offer Teteto ran, but was 
overtaken and given the thing for five piasters, just a quarter of the 
first demand. Such is eastern bargaining. 

Here came a comical sight, an overdressed woman leading a dog. 
How can one expect a woman who leads a dog to show good taste 
in dress? The woman was on one side of Teteto, the dog ran on 
the other side, so the cord by which the woman held him came 
around Teteto's legs and threw him to the ground. The Irish half 
of Teteto's blood was up. He sprang to his feet, caught the woman 
in his arms and actually kissed her. This raised a commotion. A 
big Turk made a rush for him ; Teteto stood his ground. The stal- 
wart and fierce looking Turk drew a large, sjjlendid pipe and cried 
out, " Take it and be happy ! You deserve it for giving a lesson to 
the woman who leads a dorg in the street ! " 

Teteto saw in a museum a jjicture labeled, " Tom. — Reeds the Law 
to Amerikan Kongris. A sort of Mufti." 

All this time they were annoyed by a parrot that the Count had 
given to Annie. That bird could say only, " I love you," and kept 
that remark going night and day. That voice caught the ear of a 
beautiful Turk. She stood in the street and listened. It seemed to 
be something sweet to her, Annie asked her in ; she came freely. 
When in Annie's room listening to the bird, she removed her 
veil and Annie saw a pretty face. The eyes were black, the com- 
j)lexion clear, the figure plump and her manner gentle. Annie 
remai-ked, — 

" It is too bad that you must hide such beauty in dooi's or wear a 
veil when you go out." 



282 ISfiOO MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

But the lady replied, " It is better so, for I should not like my 
husband to see and admire handsomer women." 

The advent of the party on the Bulgarian frontier was startling ; 
the Turkish Pasha wondered, then he suspected that the Widow was 
a British sj^y, nothing less than a man in disguise, and that Annie 
was his wife ! The Widow's form was of good size, she was of 
queenly proportions; there was a Avide-awake look in her fine 
face, and nature and travel had now given her the air of being the 
person who furnished the plans for the universe. Her hair was short, 
and any man might be proud to resemble her. The wise old Turk 
formed a plan. He would sacrifice two handsome Turkish ofiicers. 
He ordered Barabo to attend and make love to the spy. If she is a 
woman she can never resist the fascinations of Barabo ; no unmarried 
lady of thirty could resist Barabo. He ordered Musa to j^ay entire 
devotion to Aimie. Lucky dog, that Musa. He must spend little 
time musing. " Give her your most fascinating love," was the 
Pasha's order to both ofiicers. How little that Pasha knew of 
women ! How little anybody knows of them ! The splendid, dash- 
ing Barabo, having read of English lovers falling on their knees, did 
not know that this never happens, but he j^ut it in practice. The 
Widow was amused. She stood with arms a-kimbo and looked on 
and she actually laughed. It was impolite to laugh, but then it was 
not polite to get on your knees to a lady. The gallant suitor was 
ashamed. He had never been laughed at by any one of his wives 
when they were maidens. He rose to his feet. He went to the 
Pasha and reported that it was a man ! The Pasha telegraphed for 
orders. The Divan wired answer to send the British sj^y wherever 
he wished to go, but always with an ofiicer. Barabo, Musa and 
twenty cavalry were her escort, her guard. Widow Maler exjiressed 
a wish to see the city of Sophia. So imagine her with Annie and 
the two officers and twenty wild, fantastic looking cavalry, in red 
green and white, with glittering scimiters drawn, and gildings shin- 
ing all over their horses, galloj^ing through the streets of the old 
town, to the utter astonishment of all its people who stared as they 
never stared before. What could it mean? Barefaced Frank 
"Women, handsome, heavenly, dashing through an Islam city ! The 



UNDER TURKISH ESCORT. 283 

old Turks denounced it. The young Turks cried out to Allah. But 
when the devil comes we all wish to see the devil, so old Turks and 
young Turks wished to see more. The party passed quickly and 
were almost out of sight, but the whole crowd started on a run after 
the girls. They might lose their eyesight looking, but each would 
risk one eye on the sight. There are many Greek churchmen in 
Soj^hia. They, too, all ran to see why the Moslems were running. 
The Turkish women in the houses heard the outcry. They believed 
the town was attacked by the Devil ; they must escape. Without 
waiting to put on their veils, in the panic, they rushed into the street. 
Seeing the men all running in one direction, and as a woman always 
does as she sees somebody else do, they all set into a run after the 
men ! As women are not suitably dressed for running, it is only a 
vivid mind that can see what ducks they made of themselves. 

And there bravely, i*ode the two girls, each, girl-like, looking as if 
accustomed to be run after by a whole pojjulation, and each looking 
as if she had no heart to give to any Turk when every Turk was 
wishing to give his to them. Many a Turk was thinking almost 
aloud, " Lovely Jemimis ! I will sacrifice my jjrospects, and attach 
myself to you for life, if, dearest, you'll only be mine, and pay my 
debts, and bring me an American pile of money ! " 

The party disappeared under the joortals of the Pasha's palace, 
the crowd was checked by the soldiers guarding his gate. The 
Turks turned back only to meet, rolling down the street upon them, 
the greatest, most lovely and fragrant tide of Turkish beauty tliat 
any, even the oldest man had even seen. It was the Turkish female 
population in mass, waddling, scamjjering, skij^j^iiig? b^t coming on 
in the most barefaced attack that ever was made in Turkey ! They 
had discovered the cause of attraction. They sailed in. They 
scalped, or unscalped their pet husbands, they led them away 
by the ear, they laughed them to scorn. But in the flurry, and 
the desire of the husbands to kiss and be friends again, many a 
Turk kissed every woman he could lay hands on, and then de- 
clared he mistook her for one of his own wives ! Thus do men 
mis-state to women. These gentle women having had their faces once 
publicly shown, declared their resolve to dispense with the veil, and 



284 l^fiOO MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

this is the reason Avhy so many unmarried Turks now flock to Sophia 
to live. 

The gallant riders were no sooner at the Pasha's, than in the full- 
ness of her emotion, the Widow, unconscious that he believed her 
to be a man, clasped her arras around the Pasha's wife's neck, and 
kissed her warmly. The Turkish lady seemed to like it. But her 
enraged husband ordered the whole party sent on to Servia at once. 

In Servia, without their escort, they rode between cloud-capj^ed 
peaks, among meadows and forests of clierry, plum, walnut and filbert 
trees, over ])oor roads, and stayed that night at a Bulgarian village, 
in a meadow by a stream. These villages are numerous. Each is a 
few groups of houses with grass between. Each group is inclosed by 
a hedge. The huts in each are about ten. They are made of woven 
twigs like baskets, or sunk in the ground and thatched. The huts 
were clean. Horses, oxen, pigs, sheep and poultry liave each its sep- 
arate abode. The owner occupies tlie center cabin which is kitchen, 
bedroom, granary and cellar. Little but the roof rises above ground. 
A solemn stork jierches on one leg ujion these huts. You enter by 
a low door and step downward. The women received the visitors 
with gentleness, and offered them hospitality. They Avere handsome 
and their hair was very long. The hostess seeing that it excited 
their curiosity, shook down her hair, and it covered her and swept 
the ground. She wore a necklace and bracelets of glass beads, a 
girdle of gilt copper, and a head-piece festooned with strings of 
coins, something common in all Turkey. In the morning as a grown 
up girl was dressing, she saw Teteto coming in. She shook down 
her hair and it covered her from sight till he went out. 

Now rain caused the Widow to sjjread her umbrella. Something 
fell from it. With an " O dear ! Is it possible ! " she raised it. It 
was the very purse that she had accused the Count of stealing from 
her at Naples ! She saw it all now. Instead of being stolen it had 
di'opped into that umbrella ! And she had left a note for the Count 
when she left Naples, in which she upbraided him as a thief ! How 
shocking ! She asked, " What shall I do ? " 

"Telegraph to the Count your apologies at once," replied Annie.. 



BUDAPEST AND PRAGUE. 285 

It was miles to the telegraph, hut they rode hard to reach it, the 
Widow repeating, " What will the Count think of me ! " 

By rail they arrived at Budapest, capital of Hungary. The noble 
Danube, its hills, the distant mountains, the fine buildings on the 
west bank, the edifices hung on the slopes of Buda, the steeples and 
cupolas, the airy suspension bridge, the viaduct, the steamers moving 
grandly along the river, all impart an air of grandeur to this twin 
city, Buda on the west bank and Pesth on the east, whose name is 
united to Budapest. It is an unwholesome spot and its death rate is 
high. It has thousands of very pool*. It is the center of a network 
of railways and the gate of east Europe. The Museum is a vast edi- 
fice devoted to paintings, natural history, a library, and to science. 
The environs contain many delightful spots. 

Teteto wrote in his Journal, " buda ar piktursqee bilt roun' castle 
Hill 485 feat hi kivurd with vinyartz niakin' silk woolen wine cotton 
lether & tipes a plac' uv grate ann tikwyty the up an' down presipic 
iz kuvurd with houziz an' men an' spenshun brij hundretz uv fete 
long." 

Prague seemed old. The ancient gates, towers and quaint houses 
with fantastic decorations, the footways in arabesque patterns of 
blue and yellow stone, more like old pictures than most cities of to- 
day. The sj^eech is hard to understand, so hard that even the jokes 
in humorous illustrated papers, require to be explained. Placards, 
inscriptions are on every available place, but unreadable even by 
men from Germany. Both this language of the Chechs and German 
are taught in the schools, and tradesmen need use them. "I'ze nebber 
didn't sawn nobody spoke der langwig' so bad ; gintlemins carn't un- 
'erstan' derselfs, I'ze spose so," commented Teteto. 

The streets are quaint. Books and photographs are prominent in 
shops. The bridges are famous, their gateways are noticeable, but 
the finest was injured by floods in 1891. From the heights is a glo- 
rious view, the city in a rocky basin, the clear Moldau cuts its swift 
way, towers and spires peep over high pitched roofs, and summits of 
green appear beyond. There is the hill where Tycho Brahe in- 



286 1^:000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

spected the secrets of the heavens, and there the height where Zisca 
the Hussite, defied tlie EmjJeror. Mucla of the great struggle of the 
Reformers of ohl, centers around the history of Prague. The great 
bridge contains many statues of saints, with a big crucifix in the 
center. At the end of the bridge is a group of souls in purgatory 
(grotesque). An evening stroll showed, the city to be fascinating. 
A band jDlayed, Groujis of jjeople were strolling, talking, gossiping, 
the great towers stood grand, against the calm night, all seemed 
jDeace where wai's have raged, and Avhere two parties still struggle to 
rule Bohemia. It was late when Mrs. Maler retired to her room. 
She had bought some rich jewelry at Vienna, and in the delight of 
its newness she wore it. Iler room was large, aud hung with old 
ta2)estry on which were worked large figures of men and women, 
their features, eyes, and hair particularly striking and bright. She 
had. imdressed and was about to take her jewels from the table to 
place them in her trunk, when it struck lier that the tapestry was 
slightly agitated. The discovery was startling. Somebody was be- 
hind the tapestry, Avas watching her motions ! She had seen no bell. 
She had observed as she was shown to her room, that it was not 
next a street, nor connected with another. She believed her beautiful 
gold watch and chain, and her new necklace to be the temptation to 
theft. With coolness, she hummed a tune. She had not yet turned 
the key in the lock. She knew that a scream might precipitate an 
attack. She pretended to busy herself with her lack of dress till 
she had approached the door. Then with sudden motion she flung 
it open and darted out. She heard pursuit ! She darted into Annie's 
room. She heard her pursuer's steps in the hall. They barricaded 
the door. Then she heard a pistol shot, and a groan. Tlien another 
shot. Then they heard the voice of their protector, Teteto in the hall, 

" Botheration to all dorgs in all lan's ! Its loikly maybee thit the 
loiks uv the ladiz ar' skart ! An' they are, sure ! " 

Then they heard the doors flying open and the whole household 
rushing and chattering. The landlord was talking loudly, the serv- 
ants were cackling. The Widow opened the door far enough to 
peep upon the scene and exclaimed : 

" It's that yellow dog we bouglit of that Jew ; they must have put 



IN BOHEMIA. 28T 

it in my room instead of elsewhere as I ordered ! " And so it was. 
And when the ladies appeared, Teteto, excited, stated the case rapidly, 
"An'it'sthit dorg uv ourn thits got hissef fatally kilt, intoirely ; 
he's shot de'd ; an' it's er mortel axident ; an' he didn't survive the 
killin' ! " 

They had broughl the 23retty dog packed in a shawl straj). 

The struggle in Bohemia, between Germans and Slavs ( Chech s), 
is ardent. The two races detest each other. The town people are 
mostly Germans, the aristocracy, peasants and many factory hands 
are Slav. Every political event stimulates rivalry ; in little villages 
it is kept alive. The Chechs, though Catholic, take pride in John 
Huss and Zizka, but detest Jews, who are business people, speak 
both languages, and favor Germans, and are better educated than 
either. The Chechs keep up friendship with their race in Russia. 
They are com^Jact and energetic and resist other foreign influence. 
The women of Bohemia have fine figures and clear complexions. 
The men have rather marked cheek bones and large skulls. Educa- 
tion progresses ; the Chechs are good in figures. Austria has failed 
to eradicate their language. They delight in dancing. Industry 
covers many kinds of manufactures. In glass-work they excel. 

Going through the gorge of the Elbe above Dresden, they saw the 
wild " Saxon Switzerland." The Elbe emerges from a giant gorge 
of sandstone into a plain. Ages of winds and rains have cut the 
great rocks into fantastic shapes, bare precipices frown sheer over 
the river, or are shelved and sloped to hold the hanging woods. 
Down ravines, torrents come leaping and roaring ; every glen has 
a wild beauty of its own in luxuriant herbage and tumbled masses of 
rocks. Some eminences stand sheer and in columns, others are 
slender pinnacles. The Konigstein and Lilienstein are vast, solitary 
hills with steep sides and table summit. Bridges, once from peak to 
peak, remain, or their ruins mark where, in old times, robber lords 
had their fastnesses. It is a strange, wild place. The Prebischer is 
a colossal natural arch like the Natural Bridge of Virginia. 

" I'ze reckon dis diggin's war mlade near night ob der sixth day, 
an' so nebber finisht," put in Teteto. 

Dresden, capital of Saxony, in the charming Elbe valley, the 



2SS 13,000 UTILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

German Florence, jDlace of Napoleon's last great victoi-y in extensive 
battle (August, 1813), where he lost St. Cyr's army a few weeks later, 
delighted them with its three bridges, its art galleries, its suj^erb 
porcelains, its famous jDaintings including Raphael's 3Iaclonna di San 
Sisto^ its work in gold and silver, its great library, its cabinets of 
coins, minerals, and natural history, engravings, antiques, i^orcelains, 
and jjrecious stones, in all of which it is rich. The San Sisto con- 
tains a wretchedly stupid old saint, but the exquisite beauty of the 
three child faces that look at you from the canvas, which defy the 
efforts of all coj^yists by painting, photography, or engraving to re- 
produce, struck Annie as the highest success that ever painter's brush 
has achieved. Here, too, they saw the Notte of Correggio, wondrous 
in light and shades, Bethlehem's manger illuminated by the glory 
of the Divine child, as day is dawning over the old hills. The gal- 
lery is sumptuous with masterpieces, many of the greatest masters 
show the glories of superb art. Who could not lose himself from the 
thoughts of every day life, as he walks here in the midst of the exqui- 
site imao;inino;s of the most renowned of the masters of the marvels of 
beauty's graces, associated in this grand collection ! They lift one 
from the every day spirit. They exalt the mind. They elevate the 
taste. They educate the imagination. To see them is a festival of 
our sense of the lovely, the beautiful. And this is indeed a feast of 
the superb. 

Then to the Green Vault. Here, to the value of millions of dol- 
lars, dazzling in variety, is a rare magnificence of riches ; bronzes of 
most exquisite finish, countless ivory carvings, many enamels and 
mosaics; gold and silver plate, massive and richly ornamented; pre- 
cious stones carved into fantastic and various shapes, jeweled watches, 
jeweled goblets, gem-studded portraits; emeralds, sapphires, 
rubies, pearls and diamonds, set in chains and collars, on sword 
hilts, and dazzling on a crown. These treasures are so rich as to 
defy description. They astonish the senses. 

The Armory holds a wonderful collection of weajDons of many 
centuries, firearms from the rudest matchlock to the latest rifle. 
Dresden being thus rich in treasures of art, and beautiful situation, 
is the summer resort of many foreigners. 




AN ITALIAN PIAZZA OK LOGGIA. 




HAPi'Y (ilKL 




f.f^^iV 



RUTHENIAN COTTAGE, HUNGARY. 




SPARCHEN GORGE, NEAR KUFSTEIX,^ AUSTRIA. 




STATUE OF ST. MARTIN, PKESBUKG, HUNGAEY. 




KAISER TUNNEL, HUNGARY. 



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jews' SYXAGOGUE, BUDAPEST. 




CASTLE GAEDEN AND QUAY, BUDAPEST. 



IN DRESDEN. 



305 



They wished to ride. The driver said, " I vil rides you free von 
liour vor von mark ; too hour vor two mark," and they rode two 
hours. On an elevated spot they saw range after range of stately 
structures, capacious barracks of Dresden's part of the great German 
army. Every where in Europe they saw that troops garrison the im- 
portant i3laces. Europe is terribly burdened with these immense 
armies. Europa carries a dagger iii her boot. She is always ready 
for war. Force is still master. 

Their ride was charming, among wooded liills and vineyard 
covered slopes, the swift Elbe below, the heights of "Saxon Switz- 




GEKMAN MILL. 

erland " in the distance, then through the Grosse Garten park. All 
public gardens in Europe are parks, with walks, trees, and lawns, 
and usually flowers. This 300 acres of Dresden is a very beautiful 
resort of all classes. 

Dresden manufactures very fine porcelains. At this factory they 
found S. W. French of Boston who was making the tour of the Eu- 
ropean porcelain factories, buying the finest specimens for American 
market. 

Whirling on by i-ail they reached Berlin, capital of Prussia, and 

Germany, a very large city, built on flat sand, where the Spree is 

sluggish, a bad site for a city. The heat reflected from the sand is 

often intense, and the winter cold is great, clouds of dust and lack of 

20 



306 iJ.O^C* MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

drainage declivity, — in the Friedricli's Strasse, two miles long, is not 
a foot of descent, — are serious evils, yet the growth of the city dur- 
ing this whole century has been very large. It is the metropolis of 
Germany, a focus of enterprise, a home of art and science. The 
center is commercial ; outside of the center, extending to long dis- 
tances, are the residences. The houses are of plastered or stuccoed 
brick. The old ones of one, two and three stories are giving way to 
larger and higher ones. Teteto Avrote in his Journal : " Wimin 
works here housez is big menny of 'em iz 4 storiz tall." In- 
crease of value of house jDroperty is enormous, so that about one- 
tenth of the population are huddled into basements. Here are many 
fine buildings. The Royal Palace, the Emperor's Palace, and that 
of the Crown Prince, the Royal Library Avith above 700,000 volumes 
and 15,000 manuscripts, the museums, the Arsenal and the Guard 
House, most of these in the street " Unter den Linden," one of the 
finest and most spacious streets in Europe. Berlin is adorned with 
many statues of military officers. The equestrian statue of Fred- 
erick the great soldier, by Ranch, is impressive ; the Monument of 
Victory, 190 feet tall, is a round shaft on a grand j^edestal. 

"An area extending in no direction more than 1300 yards is 
crowded with the town-hall, the royal castle, the arsenal, the uni- 
versity, the academy, the museums, the library, the opera house, the 
principal theater, the exchange, the finest churches, and the grandest 
private mansions. Many of these buildings contain valuable col- 
lections of art treasures." 

With its many public and private schools, its university, its schools 
of sciences, architecture and engineering, its asylums, learned soci- 
eties and seminaries, Berlin is in high repute for education. In its 
museum, coins, ancient sculptures, and pictures, numerous casts and 
engravings, are objects of interest. Berlin's manufactures are very 
extensive in iron, woolen and silks and other materials. With the 
Thiergarten the city occupies about 22 square miles, a little 
larger than an American half township. In publishing it is the 
second city of Germany — Leipsic is first. A military railway joins 
it with the military camp at Zossen, 20 miles off. The Thier- , 
garten is a grand forest near the midst of teeming city life. 



TWO LOVES. 307 

The architecture of Berlin, like the military drill, is in lines. The 
monuments are of soldiers. 

Before 1870, Germany was 35 States, Frankfort was its capital, 
and Vienna, Prague, Innspruck and Salsburg, were German cities. 
Now it is 26 states, and Bohemia, Austria proper, the Tyrol and 
Luxemburg are no part of it. Schleswig, Alsace and Lorraine have 
been added. The king of Prussia is German emperor. A national 
parliament sits at Berlin. Germany now has a common army, coin, 
and post. The wars of 1859-64, shook Austrian ascendancy, that of 
1866, destroyed it. Germany, Austria and Italy, are in alliance to 
defend against attack, meaning from Russia or France. 

A national gallery contains modern paintings (Berlin). The Vic- 
toria Lyceum has many girl students. A technical school is well at- 
tended. Botanical and zoological gardens and aquarium are here. 

Porcelain is made in a suburb, Charlottenburg. The Mausoleum 
there contains Ranch's masterpiece, a recumbent figure of Queen 
Louise. Spandau, a few miles off, is the citadel. It is a town of ar- 
senals and military workshops. 

At the Thiei'garten, Berlin, of a summer evening, they were sitting 
on a balcony, watching the moon rising over this city forest of noble 
trees, and enjoying the sweet melody of KrolFs orchestra. It was 
the luxury of rest, the air was soft and balm}', the night was laden 
with perfume of flowers, as it had been by day beautified by gay 
blossoms and trellised vines. Annie had just received Harry's letter 
and another dated from Bregentz, two days older, which read, — 

"My Darling — Hour by hour I love you more. I implore you to 
telegraph me, at Kief, where I can join you. I cannot love you 
more, precious one. Why not trust me. Consent; Ave can do with- 
out old Robin Smith's money. Come to me and every hour of our 
lives shall be crowded with all love's sweetness. I shall try to meet 
you soon." 

These letters were startling. Annie was deeply agitated. Such 
an avowal of deep, strong love may well agitate the gentle bosom of 
a girl who is disengaged. 

She had barely read them when she was again startled. This time 



308 l^fiOO MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

it was by the announcement of Count Rocco Corvo ! The very man 
whom they had insulted at Naj^les ! The person whom Mrs. Maler 
had accused, unjustly, of being a thief ! The memory of the i^urse 
affair burned in their minds. Both devoutly wished that it were the 
style for women to have pockets in their garments so as to relieve 
them from the fashion of carrying a purse in their hands. How 
could they meet this gentleman ! But meet him they did with that 
ladylike composure that carries a woman through where a man 
would be dazed with confusion. Even the Count, man of the world, 
was surprised at the demure air of injury of the Widow, and the 
confident innocence of Annie. But the genial Count was unclouded. 
In ten minutes his affability had erased the feeling of guilty mistrust 
from the two ladies. Courteous amiability is a quick vanquisher of 
coolness. The only allusion made to the unlucky purse affair was 
that the Count said with polished urbanity, "I receive yoor tel- 
egram of expla-na-ze-ong. Let we shak' our hands and forget alia 
of eet." 

Both ladies were delighted to dismiss the affair. Both felt that 
this Count, even if he was nothing but the relic of an old family, only 
an Italian Count, was yet a very fascinating gentleman. Perhaps 
he was just as good as the average untitled man. Possibly his birth 
ought not to count against him. These reflections were helj^ing the 
Count. Then he had the advantage of meeting them Avben they 
were wearied with being always among strangers, and the sight of a 
face they had ever seen before was in itself refreshing. So an hour 
was passing happily, merrily. Then another caller was announced. 
Harry Kane himself ! He came forward with bold assurance as if he 
were conferring a great favor by speaking to them at all. It was 
Uke a storm of hail and rain upon a camp fire. The sprightly re- 
marks, the fire of wit, the glow of genial humor, the impression of 
friendship, the easy rapport, were quenched. They were still as po- 
lite. But the warm soul of courtesy was gone. Harry related an 
interview he had held with Bismarck. 

He thus described him in his later years : — 

" Bismarck is large. When he goes through a doorway he fills it. 
He is tall, erect, and of good proportions. His broad shoulders and 



RAPID RUSHIlSrG. 309 

full breast indicate immense force. He is fat only in the face, and 
his cheeks are so jjlump as to almost close his eyes. His head is 
large, and bald at the toj). His nose is rather short, and his eyes are 
imbedded under a heavy brow. His face is almost as white as his 
full moustache, and is full of vigorous expression. When sitting he 
leans forward as if to rise. His back and neck are always straight. 
His uniform coat shines with bright buttons and brilliant badges. 
He is a man that looks a leader of men. His speeches are short and 
to the point, and sparkle with strong points. His voice is rather 
high and broken, and is not very strong. He half mumbles his 
words, and, from fast speaking, is often a little indistinct. He ges- 
ticulates but little." 

Annie was reflecting that she had given no discouragement to 
Robin's contract with Harry, that Harry would claim her as his 
bride if he should win this race of the Grand Tour ! Had not she 
been too inconsiderate ? She realized now that she had not been 
fully awake to the earnest, thrilling soul of real love when she per- 
mitted that contract. She had doubts now whether she were still 
willing to be won in such a way. She would reflect. And she did 
reflect. 

Both she and Harry had cabled their reports daily. Both had re- 
ceived no recent response. But now came the verdict of the Ref- 
erees on the whole journey up to that very day in Berlin. Harry 
had made a wide detour in Russia, had been to Sebastopol, Kief, 
German Konigsberg. " Yeh mus' 'er bin s' far az der east pole or 
furder ? " asked Teteto. 

He had traveled rapidly, he had gone over more miles than she, 
but distance was only one element. Annie had slightly exceeded him 
in the value of her i-e]Doi*ts. So the Referees decided that up to the 
present moment, the competitors were even ! The race was a tie ! 
Twenty-two days had passed since they left New York. Eight more 
would make thirty, the full time allowed. The Referees had de- 
cided to close this great contest by the race home ! The one who 
within eight days, first touches foot upon New York Light Ship will 
win ! 



310 13,000 MILES OF SIGHTSEEING. 

Quick as a flash Annie's p'an was made. In ten minutes she had 
started from her hotel for the railway ; in fifteen minutes she was 
seated in the express ; in twenty minutes she was on her whirling 
way. Spandau is quickly passed ; Magdeburg, the great central 
fortress and city, is left behind. She saw the flashing lights of Han- 
over as the express whirled by in the night, and in the morning they 
were crossing the great iron bridge over the Rhine at Cologne. 
Then the Count joined them, he had taken the same train in another 
car. They saw the old round-domed church of Charlemagne, where 
his body has reposed for a thousand years at Aix-la-Chapelle, and 
then, further on, from the long hillside where the rail runs above the 
long valley city of Liege, they looked down upon the town, whose men 
they saw gesticulating more than even the men of Italy. They are a 
lively race, these men of the Meuse, They make heavy iron goods 
or delicate laces with marvelous skill here in Belgium. Then the 
old town of Namur showed itself, and then Charleroi, the first point 
struck by Napoleon, June 15, 1815, when with an army of 122,464 
soldiers, he began the great campaign of Waterloo, which ended 
four days later by his total ruin at Waterloo a few miles off. They 
dashed on through lovely, romantic and rural Normandy, Annie 
was racing for the French steamer from Havre to New York. At 
Berlin the moment she heard of the decision of the Referees to re- 
quire a race from Berlin to New York, she had looked at the time- 
table. She saw that the steamer would leave the dock at Havre at 
ten minutes after the tram on which she was hastening was due 
there. Now she began to apprehend some delay. Only a delay 
of twelve minutes might lose her trip ! Then she must lose the 



race 



Probably Harry had instantly taken the rail for the fast German 
steamer, Fuerst Bismarck, or had rushed on to England to catch the 
Teutonic, the fast steamer from Liverpool. In that case he must 
be ahead of any time she could now make via England. She tele- 
graphed to Havre. The answer was handed in at a watering sta- 
tion. The Ocean racer had up steam. It would sail at the minute 
appointed. Would she be in time? All had gone well so far; but 
she was anxious. Then she passed Rouen. It is the town where 



STILL FASTER. ,311 

Joan of Arc was burned. But Annie did not feel like hearing the 
old story rehearsed. Could she reach Havre in time for the steamer ! 

Just beyond Rouen a little child appeared on the track ! The train 
was just coming out of a cut. The sight broke in horror on the 
engineer ! There stood the small child, heedless of danger, right 
before the on-rushing train ! The engineer applied the brakes, but 
the cx2:)ress Avas under fearful headway. It did not stop, it was only 
slacking a little its terrible speed! Then appeared coming on the 
run a young woman and a large dog. The child stood there laugh- 
ing gleefully. Harder pressed the brakes ; but the distance was too 
short ! The train could not stop so quickly ! The woman could not 
arrive in time ! The engineer did all that man could do ; he rushed 
out upon the engine ; he hoped to grab the child ; he could not get 
into position quickly enough ! It was too late ! He just caught 
sight of a chubby, pretty face with clear blue eyes and sunny look. 
The little curls were flowing. Then the train went over the spot ! 
The whirl of wheels stopped. The engineer and guards jumped to 
the ground. There lay the child by the track, unhurt. The dog had 
at the last second arrived and drawn her from the horrible fate. 
But the train had killed the heroic dog ! 

This thrilling episode had all passed very quickly. The passengers 
thanked God for the saved life. Annie uttered a devout thanksgiv- 
ing. But the stopping of the train had lost the precious ten minutes ! 
It had lost twenty-three minutes ! The train wdlild not arrive in 
time ! Annie's race to America was lost ! She begged the engineer 
to hasten. 

" It is against orders. We have the track and will arrive thirteen 
minutes late ! " he said. 

" I will give you a thousand francs to arrive in time for the steamer 
to New York," she said. 

« I repeat, it is against orders. I cannot disobey ! " 

" I will give you ten thousand francs if you put me on board that 
steamer," she added. 

" I cannot do it ! " 

" Twenty thousand." 

«NoI" 



312 13,000 MILES OF SIQHT-SEEING. 

" I am racing to New York. If I do not ari-ive there before my 
competitor, I must marry a man whom I wish not to marry. O, put 
me on board the steamer in time ! " 

" I refuse yoixr money ; but I see a lady in distress. I will put 
you on that steamer or die ! " 

At the stop, the door of Annie's compartment had been unlocked. 
Thus it was that she got access to the engineer. Now she asked the 
gallant soldier, for train men in Europe are soldiers, to let her sit 
upon the engine with him. He consented, and Annie and Mrs. 
Maler mounted to the place. It was an exciting ride up there. It 
seemed like riding at great speed, a highly trained horse. Trees, 
farms, villages whirled by, brooks were crossed, hills penetrated, 
plains cleared. They gained four minutes. Then they slacked for a 
long tunnel and lost three minutes. Then away they dashed across 
fields and gained six minutes, then a bridge cost them two minutes, 
but they had cleared five minutes. Then a long sj^ace without a curve. 
They gained three minutes. Then a down grade. Four minutes 
more. Now only two minutes were lacking. An ujd grade lost them 
a minute ! They Avere nearing Havre. Then a caution signal from 
a road master cost them another minute ! Four minutes now want- 
ing! The engine was at its highest speed. Then another three 
minutes were gained. One minute more to gain and they would be 
in time without one second to sj^are ! Half of that minute was 
gained. Then another signal. The engineer gave an exclamation 
of dismay. It was a danger signal ! He glanced back along the 
train. A car wheel was blazing ! The friction had set it on fire ! 
To stop the train was the engineer's duty! To stop it for an instant 
was to let Annie lose the race. The brave Frenchman dared. He 
rushed the train along. Twenty minutes later it arrived ! The en- 
gineer seized a commissionaire, said to him, — 

" Put these two ladies on the New York steamer in the quickest 
possible moment ! " They ran. But the steamer had cast off its 
lines ! The gang plank was pulled in. But Annie took the running 
jump ! She landed safe on board. The Widow was not quite so 
spry. The shij) sailed. Mrs. Maler was left in France! So was 
Teteto ! 



QUICKl QUICK! QUICK! 313: 

In less than six days the French steamer fired its signal gun off 
New York harbor. A fog covered every tiling. Ten seconds later 
another gun revealed a steamer alongside ! " It is the fast ocean 
racer, the Teutonic ! " exclaimed the French captain. Soon the ships 
were so close together that Annie recognized Harry on the Teu- 
tonic. He was holding luggage in his hand as if ready to land 
instantly. She thought his preparation absurd when they were still 
twenty miles from New York city. Harry raised his hat and made 
to her a mocking bow. In his look and manner was all the exulta- 
tion of assured triumph. The Light Ship, where was to end this 
great race of 13,000 miles for a girl and a half million dollars, could 
not be seen through the fog, but it was known to be less than three 
miles off ! Could Harry cover that short distance quicker than could 
Annie ? He felt certain that he could. 

Soon, in response to the Teutonic's gnn, a little black object ap- 
peared in the fog. Quickly it showed itself to be a long, sharp and 
narrow steam yacht, built for racing. It was the Wild Wind. It 
glided alongside the Teutonic, and in a few moments Harry was 
standing on the Wild Wind ! 

Annie saw it all ! She was dismayed ! The goal was near I 
Harry had cabled from Europe in advance, for this fast craft to meet 
him outside of New York harbor and land him quickly upon the 
place of victory, the Light Ship ! Her dismay was but for a moment. 
Her courage rose. A ]Aan flashed into her mind. She ran to her 
French Captain. He already knew of the race ; all the crew and 
passengers knew of it. He felt j)roud that Annie had selected his 
ship for her return voyage. He had, all the way, crowded on steam 
to assist her to victory. When she now appealed to him for aid, all 
his native gallantry was aroused. And when he saw that it was a 
British ship with a German name that brought her competitor, all 
his French patriotism boiled in his blood. For the honor of France, 
he declared that he, M, le Capitaine, would land Annie on that goal 
ahead of Harry. A great sensation ran through the big French 
ship. The crew, too, had seen all. Quickly a boat was lowered and 
manned, and Annie was in it. They would run for the Light Ship. 
They would try to beat Harry. The steam yacht had lost two min- 



314 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

utes in passing the Teutonic, so the French boat had a little the 
start. Both parties knew the general direction of tlie Light Ship, 
but not its exact location. As the chances of finding it seemed 
about equal in several points, the French took that directly with the 
wind, and with sail up and oars vigorously plied. At first the Wild 
Wind took the same course. In a half mile the steamer gained but 
little. Then Harry bribed the engineer to press harder. The 
steamer gained ! The boat threw over a heavy coil of rope. Then 
it kept up with the yacht. Harry was greatly excited. He induced 
the engineer to throw rosin into his blazing furnaces! Then the 
open boat was being left behind i The boat's crew plied their oars 
with the utmost vigor. For a few seconds thev were gaining ! Not 
long can men sustain such terrible exertion ! 

" Throw everything overboard ! I'll pay for it from my win- 
nings ! " shouted the thoroughly excited Harry. Not finding the 
Light Ship quickly, the Wild Wave veered. Its Captain would see 
if the goal did not lay in a slightly different direction. The hope of 
victory seemed reduced to the chance of guessing just where the 
Light Ship would be found. 

Suddenly Annie perceived a slight red glimmer through the fog 
just over the boat's bow. It was the goal right ahead! She ap- 
pealed to the crew for a supreme effort : 

*' O, put me quickly on that ship ! It will save my life's happi- 
ness ! Row as you never rowed before ! " 

The Frenchmen responded with their greatest enthusiasm. 

But the steam Yacht was the fastest competitor. If one of its 
crew catches the red glimmer of the Light Ship within one minute, 
Annie's race will be lost ! She, too, will be lost ! Harry will win 
her ! O, for this friendly fog to hide that ship from Harry's eyes for 
one minute longer ! — only one short minute ! 

A French oar snapped short off ! Its loss disconcerted the steer- 
ing for twenty seconds ! This accident lost to Annie the best 
French oarsman. The gallant sailor, a heavy man, no longer able 
to assist, generously exclaimed, — " I will not handicap this boat with 
my weight ! Pick me up when you have won the race ! " and he 
sprang overboard ! 



OH I MY! 315 

Half a minute had passed. If in another half minute Harry does 
not see the Light Ship, Annie will win and be saved from Harry ! 

But that instant Harry saw it ! The steam Yacht turned its head. 
It dashed down for the goal at a lively rate. The boat was forty 
lengths ahead. But steam is too powerful for human competition ! 
The Yacht gained rapidly ! It was quickly abreast the boat ! Then 
it shot ahead. But a coal schooner was that moment crossing the 
track of the Yacht. Harry was compelled to veer three points. 
Then the Yacht came quickly back to its course. This delay of the 
Yacht allowed Annie to get the lead ! She was within sixty yards 
of the Light Ship ! Upon it she saw her dearest friend, Robin 
Smith himself! He was watching the result with intense eagerness! 
Annie's heart gave a great throb at sight of his good face. She saw 
that his suspense was to him agony. She knew that moment that 
she loved him. 

*' Run to the bowsprit and jump the instant I bring it over the 
Light Ship! Drop to her deck ! " shouted the Skipper of the Yacht. 
Harry quickly perched, like a monkey, far forward on the bowsprit. 
Annie's boat was but half a length ahead. But the bowsprit trick 
offset all that. The Yacht veered slightly ; its bowsprit swung over 
the goal ! Harry dropped from it ! He fell directly ujjon the deck 
of the Light Ship ! Exuberant with joy he shouted triumphantly, — 

" I have won ! I have won $500,000 and the Girl ! " 

" Annie has won I Her feet touched the Ship's ladder ten seconds 
heiore Harry's touched the deck ! " declared the Umpire who repre- 
sented the Referees. And so it was. Annie had won the great 
race ! She had gained it by one-sixth of a minute ! She had 
saved herself from Harry. She had won the great prize of a half 
million dollars ! 

Harry was much chagrined and excited. But he soon controlled 
himself enough to say with some confusion, — 

" I do not care for the Girl. I have completed this great raoe 
with the hope of winning the 1500,000 ; not to win Annie ! " 

« Is it possible ! " 

" Annie loves you and only you ! Marry her ! " 

*' O, Harry ! You give me happiness ! " 



316 13,000 MILES OF SIGHT-SEEING. 

" And I invite you to my wedding ! " added Harry. 

'' Your wedding ! " 

" Yes. On the Teutonic, returning from Europe, I have met an 
old flame of mine. We have settled old differences. We wish to 
be married! Had I won the race, I should have asked you to give 
me the money without Annie." 

" I will give you a wedding present of 110,000, and a clerkship in 
the Oro Mine, at a salary of $2,000 a year." 

" I accei^t it." 

Both crews with enthusiasm gave three hearty cheers for this un- 
expected and happy conclusion. They escorted Annie, Robin and 
Harry to New York City. 

As soon as Robin found an opportunity to speak with Annie 
alone he said, — 

" Dearest Annie, I love you. I have long wished to say it, but I 
have feared that I am too much older than you. What answer have 
you for me ? " 

"I accept your love. It is the greatest delight of my life. I have 
loved you from the time when we first met in Washington. But you 
seemed so willing to dispose of me to another that I had no hope of 
winning your love. Let this explain why I made no opposition to 
this race." 

" But I am thirty-two years old ! " 

" I am twenty-two : the difference is not too great." 

*' Then we will marry for love." 

" Yes : and live for love." 

"To marry for love is felicity : to live for love is bliss." 

The W^idow, so strangely left at Havre, received a proposal of 
marriage from the Count on the spot. She instantly accepted with 
a counter proposal to this effect : 

" You tell me that you are poor ; that if we are married it must be 
a poverty stricken love match. Now I propose that we be rich and 
live like other rich persons." 

'• Eemposseebaal, Signorina. Ve hafs nottinz. Ve vil share eet 
togedder." 



THEBE, NOW! 2>Vl 

*' We will live in good style and pay as we go." 

" Ve doan can't." 

" Yoii have a valuable jiictur' gall'ry and the Palace." 

" Ve doan can't selz um vor noddins. Da ish antailt," 

" I know very well you carnt sell 'em 'cause they'r' entailed. But 
just what we'll do is to grow fat on 'em. We'll admit the thousanz 
of strangers that are coming all the time to Eome, all eager to see 
pictur's. They are all desirous of the society of the nobles. I shall 
be a real countess. I'll see that each one pays a fee to see our gal- 
lery. I shall turn out the cheap tennants of the Palace and let the 
hundred rooms they now occupy, to persons who believe in republics 
but are willing to pay high prices to lodge near the nobility. We'll 
revel in shekels of silver and of gold. We'll keep the best aiiart- 
ments for our own use. Teteto will be the showman. We will not 
occupy ourselves with the details of the business. Teteto will be 
honest if he has no chance to steal, an' 1 Avill see that he don't have 
that chance. That's what we'll do. Is it agreed ? " 

" Eet ees ahgraad." 

In ecstacy of happiness, she flung h^i-self into his arms, nearly 
throwing him off his feet. They were soon after married. 

The Widow's plan was a success. Both titled and cash nabobs 
seek her society, the exhibition of the gallery of pictures, and the 
rents of palace apartments yield a large income which they disburse 
with liberal hospitality. They delight to entertain Americans, and 
the new Countess is immensely popular. 

THE END, 



BOYNTON'S 

HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES 

AND 

--^> B TT ES O E=^ E -^ 
in the KmeteeDth Century— Period 1. 

8 vo., Cloth and Gold. 438 Pages. 29 Illustrations. 

PRESS CO., AUGUSTA, ME. 



A NEW and CAREFUL REVISION of the HISTORY of the 

MOST INTERESTING and EVENTFUL PERIOD 

of MODERN TIMES. 

AUTHENTIC. GRAPHIC. COMPREHENSIVE . LAlEiL 

The only Concurrent History of the United States and Europe in 
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NATIONAL POLICIES AND MEASURES OF MANY COUNTRIES. 

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concurrent history is a necessity. 

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numerous volumes which treat of the subject of this book. 

The Common Histories greatly conflict in their statements. Most 
of them were written when the numerous memoirs, diaries and 
other historical evidences published within the last forty years, were 
not accessible to the historians. Their authors were generally in- 
tense partisans who each colored history to suit his own nation 
party or puri3oses. 

This author has carefully examined the documents to which the 
leading historians refer for proofs of their statements, and has com- 
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That this new work deals in accuracies is seen in the many facts 
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What in military description can in few words be more complete 
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We seem to see the terrible Eylau conflict, the flashing of guns, the 
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defeated ; and when the cannon have ceased to thunder, and 55,000 
young men of many nations lie bloody victims upon the blood- 
stained snow of northern winter, we see such frightful misery as 
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Compiled by this Author from many battle reports, and from the 
ablest critics of jiure military science is an especialy clear showing 
of the masterly systems of strategy, and of tactics by which Napo- 
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manders of Europe. It so well describes war and strategy and 
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Read the Ulm campaign with a map before you, and see how clear 
he shows Napoleon's strategy. Read Trafalgar and see how British 
victory protected America, 

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